Egde banding Baltic Birch

[James Nugnes]

So I have a workbench top made from Baltic Birch. I have seen internet material from guys that have put an edge guard on their ply workbench surfaces. 0.5" thick maple seems popular for some reason that I have yet to discern.

I guess I am just wondering about the best way to attach something like that if doing so. I suppose since there i no filler in Baltic Birch maybe I could attach with countersunk finish nails and glue. Just not feeling real comfortable about doing it that way as the nails will be edge on the plywood. But I guess the glue really provides the holding.

Is it worthwhile to edge band with a maple or something similar or is it a wasted effort?

[jack duren]

So I have a workbench top made from Baltic Birch. I have seen internet material from guys that have put an edge guard on their ply workbench surfaces. 0.5" thick maple seems popular for some reason that I have yet to discern.

I guess I am just wondering about the best way to attach something like that if doing so. I suppose since there i no filler in Baltic Birch maybe I could attach with countersunk finish nails and glue. Just not feeling real comfortable about doing it that way as the nails will be edge on the plywood. But I guess the glue really provides the holding.

Is it worthwhile to edge band with a maple or something similar or is it a wasted effort?

A true work bench will only be pretty on day 1. After that its a true work bench. Anything you put on will somewhat protect the edges. Glue is an option but tongue and groove will do best with or without glue. Countersinking screws will hold it firm regardless. Get a few scratches and dents in it. You be more comfortable

[James Nugnes]

I like the tongue and groove idea. To me, if edge banding it would be so that you don't really do some damage to all those laminated edges and not really about looks. Maybe that is why some folks like maple. Maybe they believe it hard enough to take a few hits. Might make an edge friendlier to the worker as well. That is all I really care about. I really don't want to have to build a new top because I totally bashed this one by driving something right into the edge. Gotta' be the weakest spot at least as far as hits go.

[jack duren]

I like the tongue and groove idea. To me, if edge banding it would be so that you don't really do some damage to all those laminated edges and not really about looks. Maybe that is why some folks like maple. Maybe they believe it hard enough to take a few hits. Might make an edge friendlier to the worker as well. That is all I really care about. I really don't want to have to build a new top because I totally bashed this one by driving something right into the edge. Gotta' be the weakest spot at least as far as hits go.

Well know... you wouldn't be a woodworking if you didn't add some bashin history to it

[Jamie Buxton]

My bench top is plywood. It is now over thirty years old. It has taken some bashing. A few years ago, I edgebanded it with whatever I had in the shop -- mighta been maple, dunno. Now I have a fairly crisp edge to bash some more.

I would not put nails in the bench top. Some cutting tool will find them. Or, when you want to re-edge the top, you have to get the nails out before you can cut the edge back to something clean, where you can attach the new banding. Just use glue. It holds just fine, even on the edge of plywood.

[James Nugnes]

Maybe I can use screws or nails to hold till the glue sets and then take them out and fill the holes. Should not take many screws to provide enough grip till the glue sets. I don't have clamps big enough to make the span across the top. The more I think about it, the more I like screws. Plus it is not like there will be any resisting force working against the line of adhesion. Its just a fairly lightweight strip of wood held against the edge of the ply. Another option might be to stand it on the end you are edging, support it a bit from the side so it does not topple over and just let the weight of the ply work for you until you have a bond. You would end up doing one edge at a time. But, no screw holes to fill after. I don't have a reason to believe that would not work about as well.

[Jamie Buxton]

Maybe I can use screws or nails to hold till the glue sets and then take them out and fill the holes. Should not take many screws to provide enough grip till the glue sets. I don't have clamps big enough to make the span across the top. The more I think about it, the more I like screws. Plus it is not like there will be any resisting force working against the line of adhesion. Its just a fairly lightweight strip of wood held against the edge of the ply. Another option might be to stand it on the end you are edging, support it a bit from the side so it does not topple over and just let the weight of the ply work for you until you have a bond. You would end up doing one edge at a time. But, no screw holes to fill after. I don't have a reason to believe that would not work about as well.

Not enough clamps? Yeah, screws then. I'd take 'em out after the glue cures.

Your plan of standing the top on edge will work only if the floor and the countertop edge have the same curve. Probably, your top's edge is pretty straight. But probably the floor is not flat.

[Brian Jarnell]

I use biscuits to align and hold in place while glue sets.

Edgebanding needs to be a minimum of 20 mm.

[Robert Engel]

Edgebanding can break off if something heavy falls on it so you have to have more than a glue joint IMO.
A spline would be stronger than biscuits.

I've used screws and glue many times to attach edge banding to plywood and it works fine.
Sometimes I plug the holes, sometimes I don't.
For something like this, it wouldn't matter to me if the screws show.

As an additional comment, if this is a workbench you plan on chiseling or doing joinery, I would strongly recommend 2 sheets of ply laminated together (I usually use contact cement). If its more of an assembly table, I heartily recommend checking out the torsion box technique.

[glenn bradley]

Maybe I can use screws or nails to hold till the glue sets and then take them out and fill the holes.

Splines are quick, easy and help with alignment to some extent. My top is a BB ply/MDF stack; 2 layers of each. Splines are about 5/16" x 1-1/8". Stopped grooves cut with a slot cutter in a hand held router as far down from the top (my reference surface) as the bit would allow. I somehow managed to document the build without a single picture showing the splines ???

TNNW (28).jpg . TNNW (68).jpg

[James Nugnes]

I have two 0.75" BB ply sheets and intend laminating them together. Should be plenty strong.

[Brian Jarnell]

Yes I think we should ban edge banding in case something falls on and breaks it off.Brilliant.
As someone who has made furniture for 30 years and never had a problem with edge banding in any shape or form.

[Rod Sheridan]

Just glue it on............Rod.

[glenn bradley]

Just glue it on............Rod.

In support of Rod's comment, I just glued the 1-1/4" edging to my previous workbench and it never failed. I just went to splines to help with alignment and assembly; long pieces in a one man shop.