anyone turning in a yurt?

[Jeffrey J Smith]

We've recently moved to a semi-remote, small island in the Pacific Northwest. Part of the plan when purchasing our new home was to build a shop on the property adjacent to the house. Been going through the motions of getting started on construction - there needs to be some significant site prep - retaining wall and fill - to level the site for a post and frame building or stick framing as well. We're locating an engineer to plan and design the site prep. County needs permits for the fill since one corner winds up over 4 feet high. The cost of bringing materials over on the ferry (20 car, open ferry with weight restrictions) starts to ad up.

This weekend we were touring some of the local artist's studios (there's a significant number of artists locally - they hold studio tours on major holidays throughout the year). One studio was in a yurt situated in a somewhat similar situation to my site. A good conversation with the owner and a little homework online leads me to believe that I can build the platform easily - just a glorified deck, pour a concrete pad for the lathe, and put a 24' yurt on top that will easily withstand both wind and snow loads that we experience locally. Woodstove for heat, double doors both front and back for access, windows all around for light, and fully insulated. And it all fits within budget.

Now the question - anyone turn in a yurt? Know anyone who turns in a yurt? know anyone that has a woodworking shop of any kind in a yurt? Any experience whatsoever with yurts?

[Michael Mills]

I'm not familiar with those but have you considered conex.
A 8 X20 would run you $1,800 - 3,600 depending on condition and your local market.
Just corner pillars needed, no concrete floor. Two could be joined fairly easily to give 16" wide.
http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=...es&FORM=hphot3

[Jeffrey J Smith]

I'm not familiar with those but have you considered conex.
A 8 X20 would run you $1,800 - 3,600

Michael: I had thought about it - but for the same square footage it would run about the same cost before I added the niceties of doors, windows, etc.. My neighbor is using one for a shop and one for storage. It's cold and dark and not that well suited to an efficient workspace. If you add additional units to get better workspace, the costs start to add up...also, for a shop floor for my 900 lb lathe, it would be better with a leveled pad underneath.

[Ralph Lindberg]

Lumi Island? Anderson Island? I figure it's one of the little ones like those.
The problem is that you have to your work space somewhat conditioned. If you can keep the Yurt (all the time) warm and dry enough that there is no moisture condensing on the tools, ever.
If it does, it will rust. One major truism around here
"It Rust, It Molds or It Corrodes"
If the Yurt is un-insulated it becomes harder.
Several years ago, in Oct or Nov, I put a piece of BigLeaf Maple on end in the shop and due to work, etc, didn't do anything with it until spring.
It had wicked up enough moisture, through the concrete to spalt.
...and my shop is insulated and heated enough to keep it above condensing year around.

[hu lowery]

Michael: I had thought about it - but for the same square footage it would run about the same cost before I added the niceties of doors, windows, etc.. My neighbor is using one for a shop and one for storage. It's cold and dark and not that well suited to an efficient workspace. If you add additional units to get better workspace, the costs start to add up...also, for a shop floor for my 900 lb lathe, it would be better with a leveled pad underneath.

Jeffrey,

I think the yurt is probably the better solution just because the 24' free span is a lot more usable. However just for information, the sea cans are plenty stout to hold a 900 pound lathe with minimal leveling under it. I had a machine shop in one including a 4400 pound metal lathe and a mill that I think weighed well over a thousand with a pretty small foot print. The real catch with the sea cans is the eight foot width. The machines fit readily but working room and room to get by the machines can get very tight.

Hu

[Jeffrey J Smith]

Ralph: I had planned to insulate the walls and ceiling, with the floor having 10" below. It will have propane available for heat, if necessary to augment the woodstove and keep the condensation at bay when it's not in use. I do know a little bit about salt water environments and rust.

Hu: I can just picture the process of rippng 4x8 sheetgoods in a container...makes me cringe...

[Dale Bonertz]

Jeff,
The only experience I have had with a yurt is my sister in law lived in one for several years. They are very efficient to heat and live in. She lived in Steamboat Springs, CO. She had it up on decking something like eight feet off the ground because of all the snow they got. I would think they would work great for a shop. Can't consider putting the lattice around the inside. She had this so the wind wouldn't be so loud. It kept the side walls more taught thus less flexing and having the tent effect on the inside.

[Thom Sturgill]

Another thought might be building a dome kit. Like a yurt, it can be built on a platform, but is structurally solid. I had considered building one for a shop before I decided to stay in Florida after retirement and found a 'shop with detached house' as my wife described it. Half the shop is her crafting area.