Design for large garden gateway

[Jay Aubuchon]

I have volunteered to make a gateway entrance for a 50' by 50' pollinator/butterfly garden at Millbrook Marsh Nature Center, a local wetlands education and conservation center.

The gate will be about 3' wide and 6' tall. Here is a rough drawing of my current plan. For now, I’d appreciate feedback on the gate itself. I will post separately on the gateway (posts and crossbar) later.

Gate.JPG

I would appreciate your comments on the appearance and practicality of this design. Some specific points are outlined below.


Finish

Given the location, I think that regular maintenance of any finish is not likely. So I am inclined to leave it unfinished and allow it to weather.


Wood Choice

This gate needs to be able to take some abuse because it will see quite a bit of traffic, including lots of kids.

The wood needs to resist decay well.

The wood has to be available at a reasonable cost in central Pennsylvania.

I’m leaning toward white oak, although this will be heavy.


Construction

All boards will be the same thickness, about 1 5/8 inches.
The three rails will be fastened to the stiles by mortise and tenon. I will use Titebond III. Do I need to worry about vertical (cross-grain) expansion of the rails? The cross-grain dimensions of the rails vary, but are in the neighborhood of 8". I’m not sure how to apply the usual calculations for wood movement in an outdoor setting.

For example, should I glue the tenons but keep glue off of the shoulders?

The boards making up the panel for the lower portion will be joined together and to the frame using unglued tongue and groove joints. There will be appropriate spacing to allow for wood movement.

The upper portion will be open. Something decorative may be suspended in this opening; for example, a stylized butterfly.

[Jamie Buxton]

You might consider western red cedar too. Here, it is price-competitive with white oak. It is quite rot resistant.

One joinery detail... Where you join the panel boards to the bottom rail, I suggest you don't put a groove (or a mortise) in the rail. It will be a well for water to collect, and a place for rot to start. Instead, put the tongue on the rail, and the groove up into the end of the panel boards.

One more thought... I've had Titebond III joints just fail, and I've never figured out why. I'd use epoxy in this gate.

[Lee Schierer]

If this is a gate where wheel barrows or wheel chairs might go in and out, consider making it at least 42" wide as you will lose some width because the hinge side of the gate will stay in the opening.

[Dave Richards]

Lee's suggestion is a good one.

Is this close to what you're thinking? It's just a quickie but I made it wider.

[Malcolm McLeod]

Speaking from personal shame ...er, I mean experience, I'd use a diagonal brace ('down' towards hinge side).

I built a similar cedar gate and, in spite of 3 wide rails (+ full width M&T joinery), very soon after hanging it had sagged enough that conventional bolt and striker latch would not engage. (Original design included the brace, but thought the joinery was rock-solid and tossed provision for brace.) Outdoors can be brutal on joints.

2nd one works fine!

[Jerry Miner]

Good advice above. I also would suggest the "no groove in bottom rail" approach.

I would also consider increasing the radius of the arched top, as there will be some fragile short grain at the ends.

[Jay Aubuchon]

I appreciate all of the constructive feedback!

I will definitely put a tongue on the top of the bottom rail, not a groove. Thanks for pointing that out.

What epoxy would you suggest? WEST SYSTEM with the slow (or extra slow) hardener? I’ll need lots of open time (because I’m so slow).

Here is a sketch of version 2.

Version2.JPG

The diagonal piece in the bottom panel will be fit snug and glued to provide bracing. One question is how best to fill the spaces above and below this brace. Here are two possibilities. I have a preference, but I am interested in your opinion.

PanelChoice.jpg