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Thread: Hollow auger jamming

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Harrisburg, Pa
    Posts
    7

    Hollow auger jamming

    I bought a hollow auger off eBay about a month ago and set to use it on a recent project. It is the type of auger that has the predrilled disk attached. the blade design seems to be supposed to "float" being suspened by the set screws. I reground the blade to razor sharpness. I set up the blade. did a couple test tries on scraps.

    The wood I am using for this project is poplar. I fore augered it to set my starting cone. Everything works well for the first couple turns of the hollow auger. However the hollow auger's "mouth" jams. This is similar to when when you are taking too rank of a cut with a tight mouth setting on a plane.

    On a plane this is easy to fix. Take a thinner shaving or open the mouth. On this auger it seems the only way to open the "mouth" is to take a thicker cut. I must be doing something wrong.

    help!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Longview WA
    Posts
    27,484
    Blog Entries
    1
    Howdy Jeremiah and a belated welcome to the Creek. Your location isn't indicated in your profile. You may live near another member willing to help with your hollow auger.

    My hollow auger has an adjustable guide hole for the work. The ones I am looking at online have a notch in the guide hole to hold the blade in position.

    Do you have a way to post an image or two?

    Without pictures of what is happening, it is almost impossible to suggest a solution.

    You might also check to make sure the blade bevel is in the correct orientation.

    The hollow auger is cutting a continuous shoulder around the work piece and leaving a round tenon.

    jtk
    Last edited by Jim Koepke; 09-25-2015 at 11:41 AM. Reason: spelling & wording
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Harrisburg, Pa
    Posts
    7
    I'll grab a photo or two when I run down to the shop this morning. At the moment I have the blade installed bevel up. The blade was in a horrible shape when I got it.

    I made the assumption that it was supposed to be ground nearly square with the sides of the blade?

    I live in the Harrisburg Pa area.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Longview WA
    Posts
    27,484
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    1
    Quote Originally Posted by Jeremiah Chamberlin View Post
    I'll grab a photo or two when I run down to the shop this morning. At the moment I have the blade installed bevel up. The blade was in a horrible shape when I got it.

    I made the assumption that it was supposed to be ground nearly square with the sides of the blade?

    I live in the Harrisburg Pa area.
    Not sure which way is up without a reference. My first thought would be to try flipping the blade to see if it makes a difference.

    Having the edge ground square to the sides sounds correct to me.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Belden, Mississippi
    Posts
    2,742
    I use a corner ground off on the taper (cone) cutter, but the hollow auger cutter is ground with a small bias toward the outer edge. Not much more than 5 degrees. This seems to allow a better chip flow toward the outside of the device.
    Mine is an E.C. Jennings with the 8 hole turret.
    Cutter is placed bevel UP!
    Hope this helps.
    Bill
    On the other hand, I still have five fingers.

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