Contributor
Brett, that is stunning, both the wood and especially the work. A question if I may. How did you deal with the expansion/contraction of the lower sides, as their grain runs cross wise to the legs? I'm guessing you only glued it in the center maybe, and pinned the upper and lower tenons in slotted holes?
John
Moderator
Wow...stunning is an understatement!
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The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
[OP]
Member
Ok, on with the build pictures!
So after the case is all dovetailed, I cut the dados for the drawer runners. I use the table saw for the dado then hand cut the dovetail socket within. I also dovetail in the upper case dividers.
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Moving on to the scroll board, which I traced out from the pattern and sawed oversize on the edge that will have the cornice molding. I didn't get any picts of the scroll board, but it's pretty basic.
From there it's time for the moldings. I use a series of bits in the shaper and form them from a larger board, then saw them free.
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[OP]
Member
continuing with the moldings - after sawing them free and sanding them smooth, I dry fit them on the scroll board and mark the miters. After cutting them to size, I use a flush trim bit to make the scroll board the same shape as the moldings.
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After the moldings are attached, I chisel out a 1/4" rabbet on the inside edge of the scroll board. Next I rip a ton of 1/4" square poplar strips and glue and pin nail them into the rabbet to form the bonnet. After the glue's dry, I sand the strips smooth and lay a piece of veneer over it. Lastly enclose the inside.
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[OP]
Member
Things are coming along now. On to the spiral finials and the little drop finials!
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[OP]
Member
On to the drawers. They're pretty basic and luckily only two have any carving on them!
Nothing too exciting here, just basic drawers with a ton of dovetailing!
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[OP]
Member
So after all the drawers are built, I used a laser level to aide in the drawer pull locations.
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Last detail, I make the backboards. I plane a little rabbet to make the shiplap joint.
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Last step was the finishing. I sprayed a dilute water dye mix on the bare wood. After dry, I gave it a coat of Seal-A-Cell. After that dried I sprayed about 4 coats of garnet shellac. Next I sand everything lightly to remove any raised fibers that are still above the shellac film. Next I sprayed a coat of Sealcoat shellac then antiqued the finish with the sludge from a can of stain. After that was dry, two final coats of Sealcoat were sprayed.
Last step was rubbing out the shellac with paste wax/mineral oil/ steel wool.
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[OP]
Member
John - thanks for the kind words. I make the mortises longer than the tennon by about 1/4" and I only glue the center bit of each tenon into the mortise. Certainly you can drawboard the tenon into the mortise, I think that was a common technique back in the old days, but I just lightly glue them in an oversized mortise. I've been making them that way for several years now and so far no problems!Originally Posted by John TenEyck
Contributor
Brett, that's a massive project. You're to be congratulated for your design, craftsmanship and endurance for this grand piece. It's beautiful and impressive. You clearly have an eye for captivating and charming details.
Member
you are truly a master of this craft. Stunning work.
Be the kind of woman that when your feet hit the ground each morning, the devil says, "oh crap she's up!"
Tolerance is giving every other human being every right that you claim for yourself.
"What is man without the beasts? If all the beasts are gone, men would die from great loneliness of spirit. For whatever happens to the beasts will happen to man. All things are connected. " Chief Seattle Duwamish Tribe
[OP]
Member
So this piece was a gift for my parent's home. We got it all moved across town today and set up in their home.
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It looks a lot better in their living room than it did in my garage!
Contributor
I'm sure many of us were wondering about its destination, that is an extraordinary gift. May they use long enough for some of the drawers to require "re shoeing"!
Contributor
Truly outstanding craftsmanship! There is not one part of this that is not appealing. Great project and write up, thanks for sharing.
Can you tell me the size of the core box bit you used for part of your gooseneck moldings??
A bus station is where a bus stops. A train station is where a train stops. My desk is a work station.
[OP]
Member
Thanks Jeff!
This is the core box bit I use to make the cove:
http://www.amazon.com/Freud-18-138-2...d+core+box+bit
I generally use a cove and bead bit on the bottom edge of the large cove and a small ogee bit on the top.
A bit like this works, as would any other providing they don't have a bearing on the top.
http://www.grizzly.com/products/Ogee...ter-Dia-/C1195
In Memoriam
That's an outstanding piece of furniture and a very generous gift to your parents.
I've noticed that period pieces seem to garner the most replies, oohs and aahs on any ww forum.
Cody
Logmaster LM-1 sawmill, 30 hp Kioti tractor w/ FEL, Stihl 290 chainsaw, 300 bf cap. Solar Kiln
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