I mostly work recycling Heart Pine, and White Oak, with occasionally Walnut and Maple-mostly heart pine. O1 and I are old friends.
Contributor
I mostly work recycling Heart Pine, and White Oak, with occasionally Walnut and Maple-mostly heart pine. O1 and I are old friends.
Member
I have the LV shooting plane and love it. As far as the shape is concerned, it reminds me of a sports car (guess I just don't have a phallic mind), but then, some people think sports cars are phallic symbols. The LN reminds me of a Scion, all blocky, all business with no style. But then, each to his own.
Member
Originally Posted by Curt Putnam
Curt, I have the LV Shooting plane, sadly when I get home tonight I won't be able to look at it the same way.
In any case, I don't have a shooting board with track, and I've been contemplating building one, but the way I learned to shoot does not lend itself to a track.
What I basically do is set the board out, by a hair and then plane until the plane cuts no more. SO the shooting plane starts off from perpendicular to a board's edge (start cutting at the front until the plane ends perpendicular and you have a cut across all the endgrain). A track does not allow this, you have to constantly push (feed) the board towards the sole of the plane. In my current way, the board is fixed all the time, in fact my shooting board has one of those toggle clamps to secure the board.
Maybe I am in the minority with that approach, so not sure if I will love the track approach.
/p
Contributor
With a track, the only pushing you do is the plane forward. Say you have the iron set to take a thousandth shaving. You hold the piece against the fence, butting the plane sole in front of the iron, push the plane forward, and you have taken a thousandth off perfectly aligned with the way you have the fence set. You can take as many passes as you need by just pushing the piece to the plane sole before each pass. I used it for fitting hundreds of inlays on a floor. No piece was ever clamped, and it takes little pressure to hold it against the fence even. I really liked it for that, and use it a lot more than I thought I would when I bought it. The bevel up, low angle, skewed blade will cut any angle you want to on end grain perfectly cleanly, and perfectly straight, with no skill required.
Nothing wrong with a Miter Jack, but this way works great too.
Last edited by Tom M King; 09-30-2015 at 9:41 PM.
Member
Oh man, now I really want a track board! It sounds like one of those 'non essential luxuries" that because almost essential once you use it.
I'm also starting to formulate planes for a board surface with a sliding top & a lead screw adjustment.
And then a power feed for the plane,
and then an LED warning light to tell me when I've reach my desired stock length,
and then .....
Contributor
I've got the LV shooting plane with a PM-V11 blade. I like the adjustable tote and mouth, although I did have a bit of a tussle initially getting the blade alignment right with the three set screws. I built a 4' long shooting board with a rail to simulate a track and lined the bottom of the track with a 3" wide slick strip from Woodcraft. Works great. Originally I was going to purchase the LN, but the features and more than $150 price difference (with free shipping) convinced me to get the LV.
Member
Here is the build I did for the LV shooting plane
https://www.flickr.com/photos/36427803@N04/13008132405/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/36427803@N04/13008321263/
Design was taken from Derek. I actually did not use the plane until I build the shooting board. Helps a lot. The first picture was a piece of resak wood. Hardwood in Malaysia
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