How to remove dried on electrical tape from an antique

[Raymond Seward]

I acquired a small oak carrying style desk that was wrapped with what I believe is electrical tape...apparently to keep it closed. Anyway there is a black substance dried very hard all around it. I tried Goo Gone to no avail. I don't really want to remove the finish....does anyone have any ideas?
Thanks
Ray

[Lee Schierer]

Do you know what finish ifs on the desk? If it is varnish you could try alcohol, but don't use alcohol if the finish is shellac.

[Mel Fulks]

If it is a film finish I would put mineral oil on it and let it set. Might take couple of days ,you can help it along as it loosens.

[whit richardson]

Like Lee said try to determine the finish type before any removal. Test small spot unseen maybe Q-tip in alcohol if tip shows finish coming off it's shellac, no try lacquer thinner if that comes off then lacquer, it doesn't it's likely a varnish of some type. Still it could just be wax on the wood. Safest first is mild dish detergent in water, next Mineral Spirits, DNA if not shellac or Lacquer thinner if it really is varnish. Also try heat to soften the residue then wipe with MS or warm soapy mix. Skip the Murphys. Last thing is most antiques don't have the value they once did now so if the only way to get the gunk off was to strip it down using DNA or something else no crime in keeping the wood as close to original and putting a fresh coat of nice shellac back on it.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Try WD40.

We used to use WD40 to take old price stickers off when there was a price change.
It worked when nothing else would - such as lacquer thinner, mineral spirits, Goo Gone, Goof Off, alcohol. acetone - pretty much you name it/we tried it.
One nice thing about working in a paint store was you had plenty of access to just about any solvent to try things with.

I was always under the impression WD40 was little more than K1 Kerosene, but, apparently it's more than just that!

[Raymond Seward]

Great ideas....thank you for all the help. I'll let you know how it comes out.
Ray

[whit richardson]

and one last one... citrus oils not the stuff sold as orange magik ect. but real lemon oil (not Mineral Oil scented with lemon) if you can get some. I use Pure Essential oils for health and wellbeing and have pure lemon or orange oil. removes sticky gunk very well even diluted. Scented oils sold often as lemon or lavender are usually synthetic not true oils.

[Matt Meiser]

When our woodworking club toured The Henry Ford Museum one of the curators told us they start with saliva. Apparently the enzymes in it are actually very effective, and very safe for many materials.

[Raymond Seward]

Well....I tried all suggestions....even pooled the turps and citrus oil within a clay dam....to no avail....looks like I'll have to remove the finish. Thanks to everyone for their suggestions.
Ray

[Mel Fulks]

That is disappointing, but thanks for letting us know.

[Gary Breckenridge]

Try Krud Kutter.

[Prashun Patel]

It wipng does not work, I would try abrasion. Try wet sanding 600 grit with mineral spirits. You may dull the finish doing this so I would only do this prior to resorting to stripping

[Mike Null]

I would try cooking oil and plastic razor blades before resorting to abrasives.

[Scott Holmes]

Have you tried a razor blade held at 90° to the surface as you would use a scraper?

[Ole Anderson]

I would first determine the type of finish, then I would use a freshly tuned scraper to remove the residue, (similar to Scott's suggestion) knowing some of the finish would come with it. Then touch up the damaged area with a new finish of the kind originally used.