[OP]
Member
Hi fellas, I'm new to turning wood, and new to the forum as well. I'm looking for some advice on a piece of purpleheart I've come across. Its 12"x12"x8". I'm curious as to how it turns, what to watch out for, etc. I'm thinking of doing a full blank size bowl, but also wondering if that would be a waste of wood. I don't have coring capabilities, but it is very possible that someone in the local club might. Thanks for the help.
I never turned Purple Heart but 12" x 12" by 8 inch thick is a hefty piece. I would Resaw it and make four or five platters.
Member
That's a pretty big chunk. It would be something of a waste to make a single bowl without coring. Be aware that when you cut into the purpleheart, it will look almost chocolate brown. Do not despair, When you finish turning and sanding the piece(s), let them sit out for several days. Oxygen and/or sunlight will restore the purple color. However, extended exposure will turn it brown again, so don't leave in direct sunlight for long term display.
It turns fine, just the usual comments about sharp tools, proper speed, proper tool presentation. Get help from your local club members.
Last edited by Bruce Pratt; 10-15-2015 at 5:49 PM. Reason: more stuff
Member
I used to work with purple heart a lot in flatwork. I enjoy it except for the fact that you get multiple shredded splinters in your fingers that dig in and irritate until you chew your skin off. Other than that, it's fine!
Veni Vidi Vendi Vente! I came, I saw, I bought a large coffee!
[OP]
Member
Curtis, I hadn't thought of that. Would be cool to have a set of platters.
Bruce thanks for the tips. Is there a product that would help preserve that color once it achieves what I like?
Brian, sounds like I may use my Kevlar knit carving gloves to mess with it.
Member
I have turned some purpleheart finials before. It was sort of stringy like fruit wood, but much more dense. Sharp tools and sharpen often - it wears them out quick! I used some rotten stone to polish the bare wood before finishing on a few pieces. The fine powder worked into the grain (as planed) and gave it a bit of iridescence - pretty cool effect.
Man advances just in proportion that he mingles thought with his labor. - Ingersoll
Member
You can try the clear finishes with UV blockers. General Finishes makes several, but other brands do also. Best solution is just to keep it out of direct sunlight.
Member
It is kind of brittle, and chips some while turning. There are multiple species that are classed as purpleheart, and some turn brown worse than others. I bought a large board a few years ago, that seems to be one of the species that keeps the color well. I have no idea what species it is. Watch out for the slivers like Brian Kent said. They are wicked. They act like barbed fish hooks, and they can get infected.
Brian
Sawdust Formation Engineer
in charge of Blade Dulling
Member
This sounds very nice! What did you finish with? Would a spar varnish or similar (with UV protection) work well with this effect?Originally Posted by Jon McElwain
Member
I had just picked up pen turning at the time, so I finished them with CA. I don't use that anymore with finials. Now I use a friction polish and buff to the luster I am after for each particular project.
Man advances just in proportion that he mingles thought with his labor. - Ingersoll
Member
Purple Heart is a wonderful wood and I am in awe of the large piece you have, please core it or Resaw some of it for lots of projects. I have made a number of Wedding Goblets 3 x 3" x 6" finished size. It turns nice, finishes nice and has splinters in the rough out stage, sharp tools and good technique will produce a nice finish.
Hope you will post pictures of your projects.
Peter F.
Contributor
Pieces the size you have are uncommon and expensive. I would advise you to go for a series of bowls, which will require coring. Done carefully, you could get at least 4 bowls. Ask at your next wood turning club meeting who the best corer in the club is. Consider giving him one of the corings. One caution - sanding purple heart is one big mess without an excellent dust collection system. This wood is a sensitizer for some, so wear an N-95 mask with an exhalation valve while sanding. I just completed a 15" PH and don't plan to tackle a big blank of this species again any time soon. I've got lots of bottle stopper blanks to occupy me. Splinters can be an issue; don't put bare fingertips to this wood while the lathe is on. Only Iroko is worse and I will never turn that wood again (horrible splinters + re sharpening of tools required every 4-5 minutes).
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