Lumber Storage, large amounts and concerned with weight

[Scott Brandstetter]

I have gotten to the point where I need more storage than what I currently have. I built a system like many have where the sheet goods are stored on the bottom, moveable rack, and the rough cut wood on 3 shelves above. My concern is how much weight I can put on the shelves (with them attached to the studs in the wall). I also am buying larger amounts so it won't fit on my current system. I just bought 200 bf of walnut, 150 bf of poplar, and 100 bf of mixed hard woods.

I'm wanting a system that won't be attached to the wall studs but want it to be against the wall. I'm thinking about using gas pipe and creating my own. Anyone have a current option that works well for them?

[Steven Wayne]

I use 36" deep 110" wide Interlake (tear drop) pallet racking with a lot of shelves. I just unstacked all of the material to change shelf configuration. I'm going to scuff and paint it prior to loading back up.

[Jim Andrew]

I also have a pallet rack for plywood. For solid wood I stand it up vertical. Of course, all my lumber won't fit in my storage. So I have a big pile laying in the middle of my storage room. Sawed up some logs, and had to move some dry wood so I had a place to stack the fresh sawn. Just need another shed.

[Bill Adamsen]

Attached to the barn frame. But I have lusted after some of the steel racks - similar in style - that come on the market occasionally via oversupply dealers and wood product manufacturer auctions. Seems like you can never have enough wood storage. Many folks here swear by vertical storage. If you have the room, racks with lumber slid in butt end out is the most efficient way to go.

[glenn bradley]

I went vertical. Not attached to the wall, weight is on the floor, sorting material is a breeze. The only restriction is headroom . I can store 12 footers OK but longer than that has to go to the horizontal rack.

[Robert Engel]

+1 on vertical.

If you can't do vertical you'll have a tough time building something NOT attached to a wall.

[Jim Dwight]

I have a bunch of short conduit pieces in holes drilled in doubled 2x4s in the wall. I got the general idea off the "Jay's creations" website. He fastened 2x4s to the wall where I used doubled 2x4s in the wall, however. They only project about a foot and start above the height for my CMS and RAS. So I've only got space for about 100 bd ft. They are packed completely full and are holding up fine. Most of what I have on hand now is Oak with a little cherry and maple.

[Bill Adamsen]

+1 on vertical. If you can't do vertical you'll have a tough time building something NOT attached to a wall.

Robert, mine is standing (braced) on the floor and braced to the wall (you can see clearly in the second photo above) perhaps more force than boards leaned against the wall ... but not significantly. You can see the vertical posts clearly stood off the wall. Essentially a separate wall built to hold the horizontal arms upon which rests the lumber.

[Mike Hollingsworth]

single.jpg
I found myself leaning in under tons of lumber and finally realized that some steel cantilever racks were in order. They show up pretty often on craigslist but might set you back $600 to $700 from the likes of McMaster Carr. Figured it was better than having my wife come out someday to find me crushed like a tomato.

[Brian Henderson]

I go primarily vertical as well, I have an A-frame mobile cart that can hold sheet goods on one side, vertical solid wood on the other and long boards, up to about 10 feet, stacked in the middle. For really long boards, I have shelving that accommodates up to 20 feet but it isn't convenient to get to.

[Darrin Vanden Bosch]

For years I have been using a few of those gorilla racks that Costco sell and have them stuffed full, they have worked out very well. I also have a few sets of saw horses that have been piled on for a few years and then a few two by fours that are stacked upon, plus the two racks that are stuffed with cutoffs and shorts. When I finally finish my new shop I will be storing verticle as much as I can to save room.

[Martin Wasner]

single.jpg
I found myself leaning in under tons of lumber and finally realized that some steel cantilever racks were in order. They show up pretty often on craigslist but might set you back $600 to $700 from the likes of McMaster Carr. Figured it was better than having my wife come out someday to find me crushed like a tomato.

This what I use for lumber storage.

I use pallet racking for sheet stock.

I ordered it through Mcmaster and I think I spent $1400 for what's basically in your picture, though I did over order horizontals.

[Curtis Myers]

Try storing it vertical. As long as the wood is dry, no issues. David Marks stores his vertical.
I stored mine horizontal for years. Pulled the stack of wood out and layed them around the shop each time I needed to find the piece I wanted. A lot of work.

I now have a very simple vertical storage. Tilt out a piece at a time to find what I want. Very easy, fast and convenient. Wish I had gone vertical a long time ago.

All the Best
Curt

[Robert Engel]

Robert, mine is standing (braced) on the floor and braced to the wall (you can see clearly in the second photo above) perhaps more force than boards leaned against the wall ... but not significantly. You can see the vertical posts clearly stood off the wall. Essentially a separate wall built to hold the horizontal arms upon which rests the lumber.

Its not the vertical forces you need to worry about its the forces pulling away from the wall.
Keeping the horizontal supports shorter will help.

I used a pipe system bored into 2x4" on edge and lagged to wall with 7" 3/8" lag bolts.
Biggest problem is getting pipes to align.

Lots of lag bolts should do it, I guess.

[Mike Wilkins]

In one of the FineWoodworking magazine special publications on shops, one article had this set-up as a wood storage rack: tripled 2 X 4 studs, with iron pipes put into drilled holes 32" on center. I believe the pipes were 1 1/2 or 2 inches in diameter. If the studs are glued and screwed, it should make a super strong wood rack, capable of supporting lots of weight.