Infinity Cutting Tools Lapped Mitre router bit

[Barry W. Larson]

Hi:

I just received a catalogue from Infinity Cutting Tools and featured prominently on the front cover is their new (I assume) lapped Miter router bit set. They suggest this bit is useful for plywood and MDF, but I am wondering if it could also be used in solid wood with at least some of the advantages of a lock miter bit (more glue surface, hides end grain, etc.) but will less alignment issues. It looks somewhat similar to the quadralinear mitre joint used by L&JG Stickley on their furniture legs. Has anybody used this bit set? Thoughts or comments on it's usefulness as well as performance on both plywood/mdf and solid wood?

Thanks,

Barry W. Larson
Calgary, Alberta, Canada eh!

[Lee Schierer]

I'm sure you could use the joint in solid wood as well as plywood. However, I'm not sure the alignment issues would be any less. There are two bits and both have to be used to make each corner. Height adjustment would appear to be very critical, which is essentially the same issue there is with the lock miter bit excluding the need to align a vertical fence.

[Andrew Gibson]

Hi Barry. The Lapped Miter works quite well in solid wood, and for joining solid wood to plywood. Personally I still prefer the lock miter for solid wood, especially if you have the setup jig.
Without a jig the lapped miter is definitely easier to set up then the lock miter. The square portion of the bit is set at 3/8" above the table and then the fence is set to produce the razor edge for the miter. If you are off in one direction or the other it is much easier to troubleshoot and dial in than the lock miter.
The down side of the lapped miter is that the larger diameter bit removes a lot of material and in solid wood I would recommend making multiple passes. This is less of a necessity in sheet goods.

So personally I prefer the lock miter with a lock miter master jig for solid wood, and for sheet goods I would go with the lapped miter.

If you have any specific questions about any of our products feel free to give us a shout via phone or email, we are happy to help.

[Barry W. Larson]

Thanks Andrew. Just the information I needed. Are there any plans to offer this as a shaper cutter? For these sorts of cutters I actually prefer to run them on my shaper as opposed to the router table.

Cheers,

Barry W. Larson
Calgary, Alberta, Canada eh!

[Mel Fulks]

Tear out can be avoided on solid wood mitre cutting by first using a 3/8 round over cutter CLIMB CUTTING to remove the sharp corner waste. High speed shaper feeding one time works well for this step. Then at regular speed and forward cutting with mitre cutter you will have no tear out even on very difficult grain. It also helps to leave a tiny flat on the pieces rather than try to make sharp point. Try it.

[Barry W. Larson]

Thanks Mel. Excellent suggestions.

Barry W. Larson
Calgary, Alberta, Canada eh!

[Kent Adams]

Hi Barry. The Lapped Miter works quite well in solid wood, and for joining solid wood to plywood. Personally I still prefer the lock miter for solid wood, especially if you have the setup jig.
Without a jig the lapped miter is definitely easier to set up then the lock miter. The square portion of the bit is set at 3/8" above the table and then the fence is set to produce the razor edge for the miter. If you are off in one direction or the other it is much easier to troubleshoot and dial in than the lock miter.
The down side of the lapped miter is that the larger diameter bit removes a lot of material and in solid wood I would recommend making multiple passes. This is less of a necessity in sheet goods.

So personally I prefer the lock miter with a lock miter master jig for solid wood, and for sheet goods I would go with the lapped miter.

If you have any specific questions about any of our products feel free to give us a shout via phone or email, we are happy to help.

Andrew, when you are going to the glue up with your plywood, what if your panel has a bow in it? Will that effect the strength of the joint? 2nd question: Is the racking strength as strong with this type of joint as say a pocket hole screw would be?

I'm looking at these bits as a possible solution to squaring up some of my panels that bowed on me after I cut them. See picture: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachme...6&d=1445190134

[Andrew Gibson]

Andrew, when you are going to the glue up with your plywood, what if your panel has a bow in it? Will that effect the strength of the joint? 2nd question: Is the racking strength as strong with this type of joint as say a pocket hole screw would be?

I'm looking at these bits as a possible solution to squaring up some of my panels that bowed on me after I cut them. See picture: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachme...6&d=1445190134

That's a tricky one, I don't think you would have any issue with the glue joint being any weaker than a pocket screw. I think it would depend on the project as to which method I would use. If I needed the corners to be mitered I would still go with the lapped miter, the glue surface and orientation should be up to the task as long as the bow is not enough to keep the pieces from clamping up tight.