Wiring for an old motor

[John T Barker]

It's single phase, according to the motor plate.

In the first picture, I see what looks like a triangular cover. What's inside there?

I don't see anything triangular on the motor. Sorry. Above the motor is the underside of the jointer looking somewhat rust covered. That?

[John T Barker]

To those that can help (thank you) and asked what the motor plate says (pictures don't come out any better.)

MECH - 7063

FRAME - 23R3

VOLTS - 115/230

PHASE - 1

RPM - 1725

WIND - D225

H.P. - 2

AMP - 21.4/10.7

CYC - 60

TEMP C - 55

The last one does not use the abbreviation TEMP but the symbol for degrees. Surprised that they used Celsius back then.

Thank you all.

[Charles Taylor]

I don't see anything triangular on the motor. Sorry. Above the motor is the underside of the jointer looking somewhat rust covered. That?

Maybe it isn't really triangular, just looks that way to me in the photo. I'm talking about this:
Motor With Arrow.jpg

Since there's the question of a capacitor on the motor, I wonder if looking underneath that cover would reveal a repulsion start mechanism. That may not offer much help on the wiring question, though, so it isn't really necessary to go in there just to satisfy my curiosity.

[John R Hoppe]

Back to the OP..."The power cord coming in to the switch is much newer than the switch and jointer. It has 3 wires (black, green and white.) The switch to the motor from the switch is older and has two wires (black and white.)"

Have you disconnected any wires at the motor? If not, the answer is simple.

Sounds like you have two wires to deal with here (The green wire is a ground and that comes to play later). You have a single phase motor, so you only need to switch one wire (the black one). First, replace the wiring from the motor to the switch box with a good quality 12 Ga. flex cable with black/white/green wires. Connect the green wire to the motor frame to create a ground point and the black/white wires where those colors were before. Wire the switch box as shown, switching the black wire and wire nut the white/white and green/green wires as shown in the diagram. If the box is metal, add a third green wire to the wire nut and connect it to the box for a ground.

This will re-create the wiring that the motor was running on and will add a ground wire to the circuit.
wiring.jpg

[Larry Browning]

To those that can help (thank you) and asked what the motor plate says (pictures don't come out any better.)

MECH - 7063

FRAME - 23R3

VOLTS - 115/230

PHASE - 1

RPM - 1725

WIND - D225

H.P. - 2

AMP - 21.4/10.7

CYC - 60

TEMP C - 55

The last one does not use the abbreviation TEMP but the symbol for degrees. Surprised that they used Celsius back then.

Thank you all.

That motor is too old to be in our computer system. I would need to get access to stuff we have in archived file cabinets to find it. About the only thing I can tell you is that it is probably a repulsion start without a capacitor. (most (if not all) of those old single phase motors were that way) Also, FYI, ambient temp rating has always been shown in celsius for some reason.

[John T Barker]

Thank you Larry.

[John T Barker]

Back to the OP..."The power cord coming in to the switch is much newer than the switch and jointer. It has 3 wires (black, green and white.) The switch to the motor from the switch is older and has two wires (black and white.)"

Have you disconnected any wires at the motor? If not, the answer is simple.

Sounds like you have two wires to deal with here (The green wire is a ground and that comes to play later). You have a single phase motor, so you only need to switch one wire (the black one). First, replace the wiring from the motor to the switch box with a good quality 12 Ga. flex cable with black/white/green wires. Connect the green wire to the motor frame to create a ground point and the black/white wires where those colors were before. Wire the switch box as shown, switching the black wire and wire nut the white/white and green/green wires as shown in the diagram. If the box is metal, add a third green wire to the wire nut and connect it to the box for a ground.

This will re-create the wiring that the motor was running on and will add a ground wire to the circuit.
wiring.jpg

Okay thanks. The things is the motor has internal wires coming out. Four of them as I labeled above, B1, O2, R3, G4. Coloring is too dark and old to determine. The wire that used to run from the motor to the switch I will toss and cut off a portion of the outlet to motor wire which is as you described. So I have to know how to connect the three wire cable to the motors four.
Curiousity, why are there multiple screws in the switch if I only need one?

Thank you again.

[John T Barker]

Maybe it isn't really triangular, just looks that way to me in the photo. I'm talking about this:
Motor With Arrow.jpg

Since there's the question of a capacitor on the motor, I wonder if looking underneath that cover would reveal a repulsion start mechanism. That may not offer much help on the wiring question, though, so it isn't really necessary to go in there just to satisfy my curiosity.

Sorry, missed your post. I never gave that a look. Lol. I'll give it a look when I am there.

[Charles Taylor]

Sorry, missed your post. I never gave that a look. Lol. I'll give it a look when I am there.

No worries. As I said, it probably won't get you closer to solving the wiring question, and besides, I think Larry has answered my question by saying that most of Baldor's motors of that age were repulsion start.

[Rich Riddle]

I have to indicate the information provided here was for 110 VAC. If you want to wire it up for 110 VAC that will work, but if not you need to wire the switch the way I had indicated on the first page for 220 VAC. You want to have both hot legs go through the switch and get turned off. The part about changing teh wire to good flexible 12 gauge is accurate. You can also wire the green to the motor frame as indicated. I will discuss how to wire each hot leg to he proper motor wires in a bit.

Back to the OP..."The power cord coming in to the switch is much newer than the switch and jointer. It has 3 wires (black, green and white.) The switch to the motor from the switch is older and has two wires (black and white.)"

Have you disconnected any wires at the motor? If not, the answer is simple.

Sounds like you have two wires to deal with here (The green wire is a ground and that comes to play later). You have a single phase motor, so you only need to switch one wire (the black one). First, replace the wiring from the motor to the switch box with a good quality 12 Ga. flex cable with black/white/green wires. Connect the green wire to the motor frame to create a ground point and the black/white wires where those colors were before. Wire the switch box as shown, switching the black wire and wire nut the white/white and green/green wires as shown in the diagram. If the box is metal, add a third green wire to the wire nut and connect it to the box for a ground.

This will re-create the wiring that the motor was running on and will add a ground wire to the circuit.
wiring.jpg

[Rich Riddle]

I provided the information at OWWM and my idea of how to tell you to wire it. For once my idea was correct. You use the schematic I provided on the first page. Here is what Art said. He has a motor similar to yours. Originally the wires were different colors.

I have a very similar motor.
It's an iron framed Baldor repulsion-start; badge says frame 23B3R.
Mine is likely older than the one you're working on, since the badge spec voltages are 110/220.
It's also probably a little smaller since it is a 2 pole 3450 rpm motor.
HP and current specs are the same as the one you're working on though.

The metal B1 tag is on a lead with black (cloth sheath) insulation.
The G4 tag is on a lead with green insulation.
The O2 tag is on a lead that looks yellow but might once have been orange.
The R3 tag is on a lead that looks orange but might once have been red.
O2 and R3 are tied together.
When 230vac is put across B1 and G4, the motor runs.
(Direction should be reversible by shifting the position of the internal ring that holds the brushes - this may be more than your remote friend is up for though...)

So your inclination was correct.

Art

[Rich Riddle]

So from the switch to the motor after you have replaced the wiring on that part with a flexible 12 gauge that has white, black and green wires.

1. Ground the green to the motor.
2. Wire O2 to R3 and place a wire nut on them. I also use electrical tape to cover the wire nut.
3. Take either the white or black hot wire from the switch and connect it on B1 from the motor. Place a wire nut on it and cover it with electrical tape.
4. Take the remaining white or black hot wire from the switch and connect it on G4 from the motor. Place a wire nut on it and cover it with electrical tape.

Ensure at the "plug in" that you have a 220 VAC plug attached. Here is the photo again:

2009-09-11_033808_diagram.jpg

[John T Barker]

Thank you very much Rich. I'll work on it Monday and let you know how I make out.

John

[Jim Wheeler]

If this is a repulsion start/ induction run motor, you may find the shifting device for changing direction of rotation underneath that triangular-shaped cover plate next to the motor's junction box.

Jim

He who welds steel with flaming pine cones may accomplish anything!​

[Roy Turbett]

I'm no expert, but you may pop a few breakers running that motor on 110v because 12 ga. wire is only rated for a 20 amp breaker and the motor plate says it draws 21.4 amps.