Osmo Polyx Oil on India Ink

[Suzanne McNenly]

Hi there. You all helped me immensely a few years ago, and I'm hoping you can do it again! I am putting in a new kitchen. Doors are rift sawn oak. I wanted a true black (with grain showing though) and all of my research led me to believe that using India Ink was the way to go. All other ebony or black stains or dyes seem to look brown/black. Anyway, I'm experimenting, and have the look I want...warm black with grain showing nicely. My next research was into finishing products, and I loved what I read about Osmo Polyx Oil. I did find someone who used it on India Ink and was very pleased. Well, I have let my ink dry completely, actually for days, but when I aggressively rub the Osmo on, it lifts so much stain that my black now looks inconsistent. I also tried the Osmo on a sample where I used typical oil based wood stain. Same thing. I just LOVE the feel of this finish, though, so I'd love to know if anyone has had any luck using it over a dark stain (preferably India Ink). I would really love to be able to use this, as opposed to other finishes. Any advice from people who have actually used Osmo?

Things to know:

1. I am using the recommended ink (speedball extra black)
2. I'm not looking for comments on my choice of wanting black cabinets
3. I will consider another finish, if anyone can tell me what would come closest to the beautiful oiled finish.....satin or matte.
4. I have pretty much exhausted the internet and Youtube on these issues.
5. I realize that the solvents in Osmo will lift some stain at first, but I'm able to wipe too much of it off. All info says to rub it in, but I think that's what's causing the problem.

Looking forward to knowing if anyone else has had experience with this.

Sue

[Mark Kornell]

Sue,

I have used India ink to ebonize wood. It does lift off very easily. After a few tries, I have up on brushing my top coat and went with spraying. No issues after that.

[Conrad Fiore]

Did you check out their colored oils?

http://www.osmona.com/interior/Pro_Color.shtml

[Conrad Fiore]

Or they suggest using their Wood Wax Finish as a stain under the oil.

http://www.osmona.com/interior/wwf.shtml

[Suzanne McNenly]

Thx for the suggestions. My research led me to understand that the only true black comes from India Ink, but I may be ready to accept a lesser version, which I believe would come with the other Osmo products. I have heard from the Solar-Lux people that their black dye gives a good black, but I'll have to try it out. They say an oil can go on top. Mark, I guessed that spraying would be the way to go if I want to use the ink....I just LOVE the oil finish. What type of finish did you have sprayed on? Obviously you're happy with it?

[Mark Kornell]

Sue,

I've sprayed both polyurethane and lacquer over top of India ink. The poly was for a high-gloss piece while the lacquer was for a matte sheen on a different piece. Both finishes adhered to the ink without issue.

The high-gloss application looks spectacular. Deep, rich and reflective - made taking pics difficult. The matte topcoat doesn't have the same impact, but the black is truly black.

[Suzanne McNenly]

Thx Mark. One last question....were you using water or oil based poly?

[Mark Kornell]

Thx Mark. One last question....were you using water or oil based poly?

The poly was an ICA commercial product. It does have alkyd resins in it, but it would be oversimplifying to call it "oil based". It is a catalyzed product - and the catalyst contains isocyanates - so a monkey suit and fresh air respirator highly recommended while spraying. ICA LP152P with C152AP catalyst.

However, I would think that any high-quality clear polyurethane would give similar results. I've sprayed Target Coatings EM9000SC on other projects and it seems like it could be polished out to a similar gloss.

You are right in that a carbon black (like India ink) is the only true black. Other pigments or dyes have a color shift to green or blue in comparison. Regardless of that, any top coat has to be nearly perfect as defects are readily visible.

[Scott Holmes]

Suzanne,

An oil/varnish/wax finish is no going to hold up very well in a kitchen. I looked at the Osmo Polyx Oil and it sounds like it's an oil/wax/poly concoction... An in-the-wood none film forming finish. A "Danish Oil" would provide more protection; albeit not much more. The wax will make this a very short lived finish.

You best solution would be a KCMA certified finish. They are available in oil based and waterborne. The waterborne will be water clear the other "polys" will yellow with age. Check out General Finishes or Target Coatings' EM 6000 for this project.

[John TenEyck]

These cabinets weren't black but close and could have been if that's what I had wanted.

IMG_3451.JPG

IMG_3437.JPG

They were made with rift sawn white oak. The finish is SW's BAC Wiping Stain, a coat of sprayed Sealcoat shellac, then 3 coats of GF Enduro Clear Poly in flat. I suggest you go to your local Sherwin Williams and get a BAC Wiping Stain brochure. They are amazing dye stains. GF's Enduro Clear Poly is KCMA rated, too.

John

[Suzanne McNenly]

Thank you for the info. I guess I still really don't understand why the osmo wouldn't be a durable finish when it's used for wood floors, which take far more of a beating than cabinets? Have a good day.

[Suzanne McNenly]

Thanks for the info. Can you tell me how you could have gotten it black? I have tried stains and dyes, and still see a notable diff in the India ink being the blackest. I will def check out your suggestions, though.

[John TenEyck]

I would try SW's Black Universal Dye Colorant first, then their Midnight Black BAC Wiping Stain on top of that. You have to spray a sealer over the Wiping Stain. If you don't have a spray outfit you can use rattle can shellac, but a kitchen project justifies getting a spray outfit. If you have no experience with spraying, the Earlex turbines are considered a very good value. Of course, once you have a spray outfit you could just use the India Ink and spray a sealer over that and then apply whatever film finish you wanted. If you look closely at the first photo I posted you'll see that the grain pattern still shows in the wood. That finish involved the BAC Wiping Stain, a coat of sprayed shellac, and then 3 sprayed coats of finish. I got the grain to show by first brushing the wood with a brass brush to open the pores in the rift sawn oak. It's not quite the same close to the wood finish you would get with an oil/varnish finish, but it has nice feel while still being a durable finish.

IMO, floors are subjected mostly to mechanical abuse; they don't see the grease and cleaners kitchen cabinets are exposed to. My father finished the floors in his house with orange shellac 50 years ago and they still look great. Shellac on kitchen cabinets wouldn't last 5 years. Scott's advise to use a KCMA rated finish is based on many years in the field.

John