Cap iron setting

[Robert Engel]

Boy its a mystery to me. I'll be watching to see who figures this one out.

I have used the same LV blade/cap iron in a Stanley #4 with no problems.
I notice you've got the frog set right to the edge of the mouth and it can be moved back a little.
Have you tried that?

The only thing that comes to my mind is to confirm that is the correct frog for that plane.

Short of that, grinding the blade shorter is the only thing I can think of and I know you don't want to do that!

[Kees Heiden]

Grinding the blade shorter certainly won't help! It is a issue with capiron and frog. Weird that the original capiron has the same issue. It almost seems like you found a dud. Otherwise I am stumped too.

[Stewie Simpson]

Could the fault be traced to the depth adjuster itself. The Y adjustment lever(7) might be bent out of shape and jamming; the threaded stud for the adjuster wheel(8) may have some damage to the actual thread.

https://www.google.com.au/search?q=p...MYjqhQUdl6M%3D

[steven c newman]

Simple...the bolt that holds the two blades together will NOT fit the recess in the frog. Where is the OEM bolt? And the chipbreaker, One can replace the iron, as long as the OEM bolt and chipbreaker are retained. The new chipbreaker/iron sets wind up too thick for the older frogs, depth adjuster will NOT reach through to the slot in the chipbreaker. Return to the old cb and bolt, and see what happens. But that bolt for that chipbreaker is the problem.

Abut like trying to put a chipbreaker from PEXTO/Worth into a Stanley.....different sizes, won't work.

[Jim Koepke]

Something about the frog doesn't look right. I will try to get out to the shop later and see if I have a frog of that type for a #3 to compare.

Things have been busy around here and I haven't been to the shop in a few days.

jtk

[steven c newman]

IMAG0060.jpg
two frogs from Stanley. Top one is a Stanley No. 5-1/2 Type 17, under neath is a Stanley #6c, T-10

Top one is the "4th" version of the Stanley frogs. That help out any?
IMAG0014.jpgStanley Victor #1104, as for the size of the bolt for the chipbreaker..
IMAG0015.jpg
As long as it will just hold onto the iron through the slot. These are also a bit thinner than the new bolt heads are. Chipbreaker here is set back 1mm. No chatter, see-through shavings. Victor apparently loved red paint....everywhere.

[Jim Koepke]

under neath is a Stanley #6c, T-10

Are you sure on this?

It doesn't look like a type 10. It also looks more like a Union Mfg. Co. frog.

jtk

[steven c newman]

Yep, it is a T-10...the one I traded a couple junker planes for last summer. never had a Union N0. 6c
IMAG0303.jpg
This is a Stanley made for Wards, No.3 from WWII Should be close to what the OP has.
IMAG0302.jpg
Rubber wheel and all...
IMAG0305.jpg
A look at the bolt to hold things together..
IMAG0308.jpg
with the frog coplanar with the little ramp on the base. Chipbreaker is 1mm back from the edge. Nice, tight mouth. iron has the "WARDS MASTER QUALITY" stamp.
IMAG0315.jpg
One of three tools in use tonight...

[Larry Williams]

About eight years ago I took a lot of flak for suggesting that asking where to place the cap iron was like asking which gear one should use for a five speed car. If you just use fifth gear it will stall; if you just use first gear it won't go very fast. The idea that there is some ideal distance that can be used in every situation is ridiculous. In 1812 retired cabinetmaker Peter Nicholson wrote "The distance between the cutting edge of the iron, and the edge of the cover, depends altogether on the nature of the stuff." If you really want to learn to use a double iron plane, you have have to experiment and get a feel for when the cap iron is too close and when it is too far away from the edge.

In the interest of helping others, I'd think one could describe what they do 99% or 99.9% of the time.

mickley 99.9%.JPG

[Warren Mickley]

In the interest of helping others, I'd think one could describe what they do 99% or 99.9% of the time.

mickley 99.9%.JPG

I am sorry you misunderstood what I was getting at in the Goldenberg thread. What I meant was that I rarely set the cap iron, put the plane together and then find I have it set wrong and have to set it again. In practice the cap iron is set at the time of sharpening for the anticipated work. I do change the adjustment of the cap iron often, but only when I already have the iron out for sharpening.

Here is an example: Suppose I have used the smoothing plane to smooth the sides of a walnut carcass then later I have to smooth drawer fronts which are figured. Before doing the drawer fronts I take the iron out and sharpen and adjust the cap iron for the figured wood. I generally do sharpen the iron before doing drawer fronts, usually the most conspicuous part of a piece, even if the cap iron does not need adjustment.

In retrospect, I probably would have enjoyed a Goldenberg plane forty years ago when I was learning to use the double iron. I did a lot of setting the cap iron, adjusting the plane, trying a few passes to see what happens, then adjusting the cap iron all over again. With the Goldenberg you can make a small adjustment without haveing to take the plane apart,

[Stewie Simpson]

Here is my Goldenberg Smoothing plane with the double iron assembly exposed. The adjustable set on the cap iron is a brilliant design feature.

Stewie;

[Mike Cherry]

Here is my Goldenberg Smoothing plane with the double iron assembly exposed. The adjustable set on the cap iron is a brilliant design feature.

Stewie;

I had no idea something like that even existed! Thanks for sharing.

[Robert Engel]

Grinding the blade shorter certainly won't help!

Yes you are right. Don't know what I was thinking about.

It is a issue with cap iron and frog.

I think its got to be one or the other.