Walnut oil

[Derek Voigt]

So I'm finishing up some items for a show next week. For the first time I used walnut oil on about 8 bowls that I made and I really liked the way that it looks and feels on them.

Would that be ok to use on peppermills? I worry about that because they get handled more. I finished my house hold peppermill with lacquer previously and a few years later there are signs of wear. Because of hunting I will only have about 3 consecutive days in which I can do the finishing. So I don't have a huge amount of time to work with something that takes days to dry.

I have a peppermill made of cocobolo and padauk that I know I will need to hit is some shellac first. Can I oil over the shellac? Or should I just layer up the shellac on those?

Thanks,
Derek

[John Grace]

I would not think you could or should oil over the shellac but I don't see why you wouldn't be able to oil your peppermills. I use walnut oil on all my food safe pieces and while they do need to be re-oiled regularly relative to amount of usage they still work fine. Hope this helps...John

[Shawn Pachlhofer]

I don't think a plain oil finish will hold up to regular use without it being "refreshed" by the user.

[Derek Voigt]

well I've had lacquer wear out though too. The typical end user would be more apt to refresh with oil, rather then touch up lacquer.

That is my thinking at least

[Aaron Craven]

For the little cherry peppermill I made for my home use, I debated on "durable" finishes until I finally decided on walnut oil (a decidedly non-durable finish). The only problem I ran into was a bit of light blotchiness, but I think that was actually caused by accidentally getting a little epoxy residue on the surface. It's been on the table and in regular use for about a month now.

My thinking is that with walnut oil, I should be able to wipe it down with a damp rag to clean on occasion and if the finish starts to wear, I can lightly sand (if needed) and refresh with more oil. Sort of like with a utility bowl. Over time, it will probably develop a nice patina.

I don't know if oil is a good idea on cocobolo or padauk, having never worked with them myself. I know some of the exotic woods have unique finishing characteristics and don't work well with certain finishes.

Another option would be a CA finish. It's definitely quick and durable. Personally, I hate working with CA any more than I have to (I generally only use it to stabilize cracks and punky wood). But it might just fit the bill for what you're needing to accomplish.

[Derek Voigt]

I only CA my pens. I find the peppermills are too large to do my same process. I also do want to have to mount the mill back on the lathe since they are already turned and sanded.

[Aaron Craven]

I only CA my pens. I find the peppermills are too large to do my same process. I also do want to have to mount the mill back on the lathe since they are already turned and sanded.

You won't get much argument from me... I find it to be a necessary evil at times, but I detest working with it.

[Randy Red Bemont]

How about this stuff, O B's Shine Juice. I've used it on several bowls and like it. Try it on some scrape and see if you like it.

[Reed Gray]

Check out 'the Doctor's Woodshop' walnut oils. He has several mixes, and uses different amounts of 'microagregated' carnuba wax. Some are intended for 'handling' like pens and pepper mills.

http://www.doctorswoodshop.com/

robo hippy

[Allan Speers]

I've used a mixture of walnut oil and parafin for cutting boards. Once it's fully cured (it takes a while,, maybe 2 weeks?) it seems extremely robust. Nice looking, too.

[philip labre]

I used walnut oil on my daily used mills. Been several years and still fine. I think they also get refreshed from the hands natural oils with use. The walnut oil held up better than salad bowl finish I used on a few. I did use CA on a few, but gave them away and haven't heard back about durability of the finish yet. I do prefer doctor's wood shop finishes.

[Derek Voigt]

Yea I need to work on applying the finish while the mill is still on the lathe to try some of these other ones. That will open up some options for me.

[Thom Sturgill]

There are only three oils that will harden to create a durable finish: Teak, Linseed, and Walnut. The old rule of thumb for oil finishes was to apply 'once an hour for a day, once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month forever.' This does not apply to hardening oils. Soak the wood's surface with as much as it will adsorb, let rest and repeat for aa few coats. Applying OVER a sealer (shellac) defeats the advantage of a penetrating finish as it cannot penetrate the sealer.

I would coat them several times the first day, let them 'cure' for a day (a couple of weeks is better) then triple buff with a bit of wax. I typically wax one piece buff it off then buff the others with only the residue on the wheel. If you give the new owners instructions on care, warn them that grocery store walnut oil is not prepared the same way as the finish and might not cure properly and might trigger nut allergies. Walnut oil finish will not as the proteins have been filtered out.

[John King]

I like Liberon Finishing Oil. It's easy to work with and easily renewable. Check it out at http://www.liberon.co.uk/oils/finish...0xOTQmfA%3D%3D. Follow the oil finish with Liberon Fine Paste Wax Black Bison, Clear. Check it out at http://www.liberon.co.uk/wax-finishe...0xODYmfA%3D%3D. Buff to a durable finish that can easily be repaired. - John

[Allan Speers]

There are only three oils that will harden to create a durable finish: Teak, Linseed, and Walnut. .....

I assume you meant Tung, not Teak. (There's not an actual oil called "Teak," that's just a marketing thing. "Teak Oil" is usually Linseed + Tung, with a little varnish mixed in.)


Anyway, there's also Safflower oil, if anyone wants to experiment. Artists use it occasionally for mixing pigments, and it does not yellow or darken. I don't believe it's as durable as Walnut, at least with oil paint, but it might be an interesting experiment.