Hammer A3 31 cutter heads

[Randall Houghton]

I'd like to know if you were buying this unit again would you select the same cutter head again? Besides the noise factor are their any differences in the finish quality between the straight knife head and the segmented head? I would especially like to hear from the owners using straight knives. Are there various types of steel knives available for this machine? If so how expensive are they. thanks for your help.

Randy

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi, I'm on my second A3-31 with the standard cartridge knife system.

They work fine for me, finish is great.

Remember it's a lumber dimensioning machine, not a finishing machine.

Cost is about $60 for 3 double edged knives, I use the cobalt type..........Regards, Rod.

[Scott Brihn]

I purchased a unit with the spiral head 2 years ago. IMHO straight knives produce a smoother finish when you pay attention to grain direction. I bought the spiral head to reduce noise, process figured wood, and achieve cutter longevity. Final surface prep on everything I process is done using other methods e.g. Drum sander, ROS, #4.5 smoother.

I would buy the spiral head unit again.

[Dennis Cloutier]

I handle a lot of figured maple. I've found that I get much less tearout with the spiral cutter head vs the straight knives I had on my old jointer.

[Derek Stockley]

I have an A3-26 with straight knives, and they definitely do the job. In a couple of years of light-to-moderate hobby use, I have had to flip my blades once, and the second edges performance is starting to degrade for me now. The blade alignment process is far less painful than on my old 6" jointer, and the surface I get is pretty good, particularly when the blades are fresh. That said, I do wish I had bought the spiral cutter head. It had only been released a month or two before I bought, the showroom had no samples yet, and I'm wary of new things by nature so I passed on it. When jointing with the dust collector running, my machine makes considerably more noise than my old 6" jointer. But when I joint with the dust collection off, and when I'm planing, it's considerably quieter than the old equipment. I can only guess that the air rushing over the rotating straight knives is the source of the racket. Because my shop shares a wall with the neighbours, for that reason alone, I'd choose the silent power cutter head if I were doing it over. If noise doesn't bother you, I don't think you'd be disappointed with the straight knives performance. Just know that if you're coming from a separate jointer and planer, you're using a combo machine's one cutter head for both jobs, so that one set of knives will need attention more frequently than when you were dividing that work among two machines. I'm experimenting with in-place honing right now to see if I can get a little more life out of this set before I install the new set.

[Prashun Patel]

I purchased the spiral cutter head and am happy with it. It excels are planing without tearout. However, it doesn't leave a finish-ready surface. It leaves tiny scallops in the surface that do require sanding with 150 or higher grit. The low noise does make a big difference for me. Planing is pleasant.

I would definitely get the height gauge. It's very accurate.

[Rod Sheridan]

I would definitely get the height gauge. It's very accurate.

I agree with Prashun, the height gauge on the planer is very accurate.

My one comment is that this is a metric machine, one handwheel revolution is 2 mm in height.

Purchase the metric gauge, I did compared to my brother who purchased the Imperial gauge, if I remember it's 0.079" revolution......Really crazy to deal with............Regards, Rod.

[Randall Houghton]

Thanks for the replies. I will definitely get the height gauge with the metric scale. I'm a long time(+45 years) trim carpenter/ cabinetmaker that grew up on old Oliver iron. To be honest it looks like I could get the 16" with straight knives for a little more than the 12" with silent power head. Any thoughts on mobility since my shop is small and things need to move?
Randy

[Ted Calver]

I have the twelve and a lot of wood that exceeds 12". I'm wishing I had gone for the 16 and am thinking of selling the twelve and stepping up. If I do it will be to the 16" with silent cutter head.

[James Zhu]

Thanks for the replies. I will definitely get the height gauge with the metric scale. I'm a long time(+45 years) trim carpenter/ cabinetmaker that grew up on old Oliver iron. To be honest it looks like I could get the 16" with straight knives for a little more than the 12" with silent power head. Any thoughts on mobility since my shop is small and things need to move?
Randy

TP300castors.jpg

This is the mobility kit of Martin J/P a guy posted in Felder forum. I think it is the best mobility kit. It only raises the machine probably half inch from the floor, the casters make the move effortless. If you have welding equipments, you can make it by yourself using Zambus levelling casters. Or pay someone to make it for you.

[Prashun Patel]

I bolted casters to the case.

FOOTMASTER GD-60S-BLK-1/2.


I discussed it here:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...needs-casters)

They're not cheap, but I get a little of the price back in utility and appreciation every time I move it. It's smooth in all 4 directions, and locks down secure. In fact, I don't lock the wheels often. It's plenty stable on most planing/jointing ops unless you're jointing heavy stock or working on an ice rink.