Hanging a door

[Kent Adams]

I've decided to replace my two swinging doors that are at the end of my workshop with these: http://www.homedepot.com/p/JELD-WEN-...30-0/202036042

The description of the doors says that they can be trimmed up to 1/8" for a "perfect fit. The doors are made of wood and are for exterior use. My existing doors are 35 1/2 x 78".

I don't know what to make of the "can be trimmed up to 1/8"". Do you think that's a typo? If its a wooden door, shouldn't I be able to trim up to at least 2 inches on the length? I've never hung a door before so this is new to me. I looked for 15 light exterior doors but I couldn't find any at 36" wide that wasn't prehung. I don't want prehung because of the hardware I want to use.

[Chris Kiely]

Look like they are talking about the edges. I would suspect they just put a relatively thin veneer there.

Usually you can trim off the bottom of a wood door like you've said with no worries.

If the door is hung properly, (plumb and true) there should be no reason to trim the sides 'for a perfect fit'. Having said that - you want to make sure there's a slight bevel (2*) on the leading edge so it doesn't catch when you open the door.

Plan on ⅛" gap on all three side when constructing your frame, and whatever you need at the floor.

[Kent Adams]

you want to make sure there's a slight bevel (2*) on the leading edge

By leading edge, is that the side where the hardware goes?

[Roger Nair]

The lockset side needs the bevel. I would consider keeping the primary operating door full width with the fixed side door with a covering tee astragal as the door that gets the cutback.

[Lee Schierer]

The product description is a bit confused. It says: "The door's singe-pane glass features tempered insulation to provide year-round energy efficiency. " Normally insulated glass means there is a thermopane with two layers of glass. I don't know how you temper insulation and tempered glass does nothing for insulation value.

[Kent Adams]

The lockset side needs the bevel. I would consider keeping the primary operating door full width with the fixed side door with a covering tee astragal as the door that gets the cutback.

Neither door will be fixed, would that change your recommendation? Here is the hardware: http://www.fifthroom.com/images/info...dAssembly6.jpg

[Kent Adams]

The product description is a bit confused. It says: "The door's singe-pane glass features tempered insulation to provide year-round energy efficiency. " Normally insulated glass means there is a thermopane with two layers of glass. I don't know how you temper insulation and tempered glass does nothing for insulation value.

Yeah, I pretty much discounted the "insulation" as poppy-cock.

[Mike Cozad]

I purchased an identical set of doors when I lived in MO and had to lop off 2" of the bottom to go in the low overhead space opening in a basement. If I remember correctly the core was poplar or something like that so I sealed it well and since no one will ever see it, it was irrelevant. I think you are fine.

[Tom M King]

Almost all wooden doors sold in big box stores are veneered. Both edges have solid wood maybe 3/8" thickest at best so the hinges and lock can be mortised without going through the wood.

[Roger Nair]

Not sure about how you plan to install, need a little more info. In standard installs one door is operating, the other is fixed with operating bolts either mortised or surface mounted.

The doors that you are replacing are sized as more like the size of replacement doors, that when fitted with jambs that can be set inside the jambs of standard sized doors.

[Kent Adams]

Basically, the doors I'm replacing are french doors, so to speak. One door has a bolt on the top and bottom to fix it in place when you close the other door.

[Peter Quinn]

The description says the rails and stiles are made from "solid brown wood." That indicates not a stage core, though you never know, could also be they consider staves solid and the edges are veneered? I'm thinking worst case you are looking at either the core of the joinery which is probably dowels at that price point. If you take most of your trim off the hinge stile that will minimize any visual impact of the core being seen, tops and bottoms....who cares? Seal well and don't invite 7' people over that will see the top? Or take it allot the bottom? Point is if description is accurate the structure should remain intact, it's just a cosmetic issue. Yiu could check your rough openings, if you have room you can make a new wider jamb for these doors and not have to trim the width, 35 1/2" is a pretty strange opening size.

[Eric Schmid]

Why not just order doors that are the size you need? I realize HD does not show any other sizes for this door, but most door manufacturers can make doors that fit your opening.

With a properly sized door you're not trimming two inches off the bottom rail and reducing the strength of the door.

When you look at how these doors are constructed it's not surprising that they don't want you trimming much material away. They are engineered "solid" wood, not solid wood.

Another option if you want solid wood is to find an old door set that fits your opening (or make a set). We have a few good rebuilding centers here with isles of old solid wood doors. I often have good luck finding doors that can be repurposed.

[Tom M King]

http://www.barnstarvintage.com

[Tom M King]

http://www.bizjournals.com/triad/blo...inventory.html