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Thread: Sawstop In Bypass Mode

  1. #1

    Sawstop In Bypass Mode

    I have a Sears molding head cutter like this. Is it possible to use it on a Sawstop in bypass mode?

    Molding_head_007.jpg

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Sacramento, ca.
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    269
    The bypass mode is for cutting wet wood, to prevent an inadvertent firing of the brake, if the wood my be slightly conductive. I've never used a cutter like that, but don't see why you would use the bypass mode. Use the same process as a dado set up. I have used the test procedure for some wet wood, turned I didn't need to use the bypass mode.

    Bill
    Bill

    " You are a square peg in a square hole, and we need to twist you to make you fit. " My boss

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by Ken Krawford View Post
    I have a Sears molding head cutter like this. Is it possible to use it on a Sawstop in bypass mode?

    Molding_head_007.jpg
    Call Sawstop as they are the most qualified to answer this question. Anything other than doing this is doing so at your own risk.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Upstate NY
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    3,789
    Even in bypass mode the blade (cutter, whatever) has to fit the cartridge properly.

    I wouldn't personally go anywhere near that cutter, but that's just me.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Whidbey Island , Wa.
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    914
    I have one of those that I've run on my Grizzly, the gripe I vaguing remember about theSaw stop was the inserts would except a dado. But I don't see why you couldn't make zero clearance insert to run the cutter up thru.

    The saw stop people should be able to answer your question like the last poster said. I don't think it would have any thing to do with the sensor thou.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Edmonton, Canada
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    2,479
    Yes call them and ask them. My guess is 99% the answer is no you can't.

  7. #7
    The Sawstop manuals say it's a no-no. Even in by-pass mode the saw checks the 'blade' is gapped properly to the brake, so I'm not sure how it would react to that head.

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Wade Lippman View Post

    I wouldn't personally go anywhere near that cutter, but that's just me.
    I use something like that for making beaded panels all the time. LRH used to make a sweet one called the Magic Moulder. Add a power feed and they work really slick.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Upland CA
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    5,572
    Just another reason I kept my Uni when I got the SS.

    I cannot believe how much I use the Unisaw with a dado along side the SS with a blade. Matter of fact, right now I have a dado on the Uni, and another on a RAS, while I use the SS to cut the pieces for drawers.
    Rick Potter

    DIY journeyman,
    FWW wannabe.
    AKA Village Idiot.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
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    Sacramento, CA
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rick Potter View Post
    Just another reason I kept my Uni when I got the SS.

    I cannot believe how much I use the Unisaw with a dado along side the SS with a blade. Matter of fact, right now I have a dado on the Uni, and another on a RAS, while I use the SS to cut the pieces for drawers.
    Wow yea most people dont have the room for one cabinet saw, let alone two.
    If at first you don't succeed, redefine success!

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Bloomington, IL
    Posts
    6,009
    JR has done it in the past with a magic moulder.

    From an old post of his....
    The Magic Moulder is too small for the dado cartridge to work (on my older industrial saw). I made a workaround using some very heavy gauge copper wire screwed into the dado cart. and looped up to the arbor to pick up the eddy current. Desperate times and all . . .
    Glad its my shop I am responsible for - I only have to make me happy.

  12. #12
    I sold my old Unisaw to a friend so I think I'll see if I can run a few panels on it. I'm making bead board and it needs to match some that I ran a couple of years ago.
    I think the cutter head diameter is the deal killer on using it with a Sawstop. I saw the post about the heavy copper wire. Think I'll pass.
    Thanks for the replies.

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