In the process of downsizing, I now have a 2 hp hybrid table saw instead of a 5hp w/router. my question is: do I need to switch from regular to thin kerf blades?
In the process of downsizing, I now have a 2 hp hybrid table saw instead of a 5hp w/router. my question is: do I need to switch from regular to thin kerf blades?
No, I wouldn't.
Just listen to the saw and adjust your feedrate accordingly.
Edit: Keeping your sawblades sharp and clean makes a big difference too.
Last edited by John Lankers; 12-06-2015 at 8:00 PM.
I would only go to a thin kerf blade if the saw didn't perform well with a full kerf blade. I will say this. I have a 1.5 hp contractor saw and when I switched to TK blades, it felt like I had swapped it for a 3 hp cabinet saw. Some people say that a TK blade will vibrate and give you a poor cut, even with a sharp blade. That has not been my experience.Even so, I would still prefer standard blades if I had a more powerful saw.
They say the new thin kerfs are pretty stable relative to their ancestors.
That being said, i would personally start with full kerf and just get a good proper ripping blade for rips, not a combo.
This. I used to work mostly with pine, but my taste has moved up to cherry and maple. Tried using my 60t combo on 3/4 maple and the rip cut was terrible. I figured try the stock 40t rip blade couldn't be any worse so I gave it a try. Significantly better with just the stock Grizzly blade. Now I'm in the market for higher quality dedicated rip and cross cut blades.
Thin kerf blades may be a little more efficient for the lower power saw, but not enough that I would remotely consider replacing existing full kerf blades and the cost involved doing that. If you were starting from scratch, I might recommend differently, but for downsizing...keep your tooling and enjoy it.
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The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
I have a 1.75hp Steel City. It doesn't care what blade I use.
The .75hp RAS is a different story.
Never, under any circumstances, consume a laxative and sleeping pill, on the same night
Full kerf would be my vote.
Richard Poitras
Central, Michigan....
01-02-2006
I routinely use full kerf blades on my 1-1/2 Hp contractor saw and cut maple and cherry with no problems using dedicated rip and 60 tooth cross cut blades by Freud. A 2 Hp saw should have no problems, but may cut a bit slower than the super Hp saws. The saw needs to be well tuned to get cuts that are high quality and burn free.
Lee Schierer
USNA '71
Go Navy!
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If your saw has a riving knife or a splitter, will the thin kerf blade provide a wide enough kerf to feed the stock without binding on the riving knife or splitter?
I wouldn't replace without justification. If your current 1/8" full kerf blades are good quality, are sharp, and are suitable for a given task, I'd use 'em. When it comes time to replace with a new blade, consider a good quality 3/32" TK then.
Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....
I used to have issues in the basement w/ a 1.75hp Jet Contractor saw, kept popping breakers. I went to a Mitsushita TK and problems disappeared. I moved everything into the garage and stuck with the TK, I really enjoyed how well it cut and didn't bother to switch back to a full cut. "0" vibration, a lot less dust to catch and cut was very smooth.
Mac
matsushita not mitsushita. +1 for another happy w/ thin kerf. forrest for me though. only makes sense to switch if you are having issues. keith
My table saw is a Ryobi BT3100 with a 15A universal motor. So not very powerful. I have both full kerf and thin kerf blades and can see very little difference. As has been mentioned, it is MUCH more important to have the right kind of blade on the saw, and that it be clean and sharp. With a clean and relatively sharp Freud 32 tooth ripping blade, full kerf, I can rip 3 1/2 inch hardwoods with my little Ryobi. I have to move a little slow but can push steadily through the cut. I would definitely use full kerf blades on a 2hp saw.