Opinions of the fence on Ryobi bt3000? (Just the fence)

[Fitzhugh Freeman]

I have a 1980's Craftsman contractor saw I got very cheaply off craigslist. It's in really quite nice shape but the fence wasn't much good to start with. I also have a Ryobi bt3000 I was given. It isn't quite in working shape but could be easily, only I want a simple, solid table saw that requires as little fiddling to use as possible. I'm thinking of moving the rails and fence from it to the craftsman. I would have to replace the long main portion and the rod that locks the rear since they aren't long enough. I'd also rigidly mount the rails instead of having them able to slide side to side (or add a ruler that doesn't travel with the moving rail - a complaint I've read about repeatedly). Before spending the time, though, I'd love to hear from anyone who has actually used a BT3000.

The fence seems to lock firmly and positively and seems much more rigid than the craftsman. There are more plastic parts than you'd likely find in a real t-square style fence but I'm not worried about that - by the time it would wear out I would be able to get a better saw. Replacing the main portion and the rod won't be a real challenge but will take time. I just don't want to try if it is doomed to be a disappointment.

I'd much prefer a proper aftermarket fence that could move to a better saw later but the price is too high even for used.

Thank you!
Fitzhugh

[Doug Hobkirk]

I have a BT3000. I think the fence is excellent, although the sliding table is the reason I chose it. Does the fence fit the Craftsman rails? Or can the Ryobi rails be transferred? In any case, the most important part of setting up a fence is proper alignment.

But I don't use the BT3000 much because I find my EZ Smart guide rail saw system is easier (and safer) to use for most jobs.

[Harvey Miller]

I'd worry that I'd mess up drilling the rails & end up with a two unusable saws. If the contractor saw has a deeper table than the Ryobi, I'd definitely forget about adapting the Ryobi fence. Half the strength of the lock down comes from locking the rear of the fence to the rail. Lose than and you"ll have a really bad fence. I would fix the Ryobi, try it out and sell the saw you like the least.

[Fitzhugh Freeman]

I do understand why people like them, and the sliding table is appealing, but since I have shopsmith for most other things (planer, jointer, bandsaw, sanding, and a wall mounted 10er as a drill) I want a saw that leaves very little room for fiddling. This won't be used for breaking down sheet goods. For that I'll go to the makerspace where I have better options.

The table is deeper, but the job of replacing the actual length of the fence and the internal rod with longer ones is actually really pretty simple and it would still attach at the back. I'd have to use a different extrusion profile, but appears it will work. I have access to a cnc mill and can make some simple adapters and avoid swiss cheesing the craftsman, as you warn. I've seen it done on shopsmiths to apparently good effect. That said, I'm leaning toward fixing up the ryobi as you suggest. It isn't in cosmetically great shape but not bad. If I add what I would spend on the extrusion and rod to whatever I get selling it I could probably buy a used fence of known quality. I just had to see it in writing to think it through, I guess.

Thanks

[John Donhowe]

I used a BT3100 (almost identical to the BT3000), and ultimately got frustrated with the fence. On the plus side, it was always dead on in clamping parallel to the saw blade, and I liked the way it locks on both the front and back rails. The main problem I had was that I could not get it to lock reproducibly vertically- that is, I couldn't reliably get the fence face to clamp exactly perpendicular to the table surface. That doesn't matter if you're just ripping flat stock, but made cutting things like vertical panels a problem. I scoured the BT3Central (now sawdustzone) blog site for fixes, without success, but that is a good site for a lot of BT3000 info. BTW, about a year ago I got a Craftsman 22116 off Sears outlet, with a Biesemeyer style fence, and haven't looked back. Good luck.

[Duane Meadows]

I used to service the bt3000 saws once in a while. Was a good concept poorly implemented IMHO. Very little if anything on one that I would save. With most any decent after market fence system the Craftsman contractor saw will be a much better saw, again JMHO.

[Dick Brown]

If your Craftsman is a belt drive and you don't see a cabinet saw in your "Not to far away" future, the Craftsman is well worth an aftermarket fence. Other than the fences, they were just about as good as most of the other middle priced contractor saws of that era. I think trying to adapt the BT3000 fence will be a lot of potential frustration for very little gain. (I had a BT3000) Watch C.L. for a better fence. I bought a Unifence with right side table in nice shape for $50 while back. The man bought a different saw but liked his Vega better so traded and sold the Unifence. I also bought a ShopFox Classic for $75. 3 weeks ago because the man needed a wider cut so bought a Biesemeyer w/long rails. Reason I am saying this is if you keep your eyes open, they are out there and you will be much happier than trying to make the BT fence work.

[Fitzhugh Freeman]

"good concept poorly implemented"
I'd say that is a perfect way to describe how they look to me. Having never cut anything with one but having taken one apart down to the last screw, except the motor itself, it looks like a lot of good ideas were hit with a manager t telling the engineers they had to cut the cost another five notches. The fence and table on plastic slide shim things and the motor shims come to mind first.
It's exactly the fear of southerner m something like the inconsistent perpendicularity if the fence to table that had me second guessing my plans and asking. Had no idea that was an issue but an glad to know it can be before trying.
The craftsman, on the other hand, was made simple and has held up well. Bearings, arbor runout, even the table was set very square by the po. It sat a few years so I replaced the belt with a link belt i had on hand, but no rust at all. I swapped the casters for 3", and still have to change miter bars so my jigs from my Shopsmith will fit. The only real project is adding what dust control I can.
For now I'll not be hindered by the craftsman fence too much, based on the projects i see on my list, and I'm not entirely relying on the saw to rip a parallel edge since I like my hand planes, so waiting and watching for a good cl find will work. I have barely used the saw and it seems OK, though I'll check how true it is every time I set it for a good while yet.

Anyhow, I appreciate the input and will follow the advice.

[Stan Calow]

I have one as well. Same problem with vertical alignment that John D mentions. The fence also moves out of horizontal alignment when locking down unless you hold it down as well. Also, the lock down handle comes off in the hand every now and then. I would guess it would not be much improvement.

[Rick Potter]

Not worth the trouble. Just last nite, I saw on Craigs List, a Sears saw like yours with a decent mobile base, and a 12/24 aluminum fence that was added, and he said it had been balanced(which I took to mean perhaps steel pulleys).

The whole thing looked pretty clean, and he only wanted $100 for it. The blade even looked almost new. In your shoes, I would buy it for the fence and base, put my old fence on it, and resell.

Inland Empire CA. Craigs list