Bought a Used Grizzly 3HP Cyclone (G0441). Now What?

[Marty Tippin]

I picked up a used 2012 Grizzly G0441 on Craigslist today - wasn't actively searching for a cyclone DC but there it was - and at about half of new retail, I couldn't pass it up. It will replace the two 1.5HP "traditional" dust collectors I currently push from machine to machine.

A couple (ok, a bunch) of questions for G0441 owners and others:

* If I want to change the orientation of the inlet and outlet, it looks like I'd need to totally disassemble the whole unit. Is there an easier way? I'd like to rotate the intake 90 degrees.

* 30A or 40A circuit? I've Googled and there doesn't seem to be any clear answer. The manual says it requires 40A (meaning 8ga wire) but sounds like lots of folks use 30A. Full-load amps is 22 according to the manual.

* Included with the package were 2 ea 8" x 5 ft pipe sections, an 8" elbow and an 8"-6" reducer (all the Grizzly brand). I've got about 75 ft of well-used 6" spiral pipe that I bought a while back "just in case." Should I endeavor to use the 8" as much as possible or can I effectively step down to 6" right from the inlet of the cyclone? I'll have 6 or 7 machines plumbed but only use one at a time, and plan to bring 6" right up to the machine as much as possible.

* Any recommended reference websites for figuring out the "best" piping layout for my shop? I'd like to put the cyclone in the far corner of the 40x40 shop to get some distance from the noise, but that would require the longest run to be a good 30 ft plus the vertical drop. I could put it closer to the machines and have a maximum run of probably 15 ft or so.

* What's a good way to hang the pipe? It'll have to be suspended from the 10 ft ceiling to go below the fluorescent fixtures.

Thanks - I'm sure I'll have lots more questions as I get closer to firing this thing up... ;-)

[bruce buren]

I have that unit. I ran all my duct in 6" pvc and have no issues with 2 or 3 gates open at the same time. As far as rotating the inlet I bet you will have to disassemble to rotate. I ran a 30A 10 gauge romex and have never had any issues and I have had mine about 4 years. I bought a couple more remotes (about 12$ IIRC) and just leave them at the major tools attached with a little Velcro. I just used plumbers strap to hang the pipe to the ceiling joists (9' basement shop)

I built a sound deadening room for mine. The longest run I have is probably 45-50' actually pipe to my last router table and 8 " grizz jointer

[Marty Tippin]

Thanks, Bruce.

What fitting did you use to attach the 6" PVC to the inlet on the DC? Just a sheet metal 8" to 6" reducer?

Still haven't decided on the 40A vs 30A circuit, it does seem that lots of folks use 30A quite successfully.

[Wade Lippman]

Your motor and panel brand might require a 40a breaker. Mine has run just fine on a SquareD 30a breaker for 2 years. You might not be so lucky. There is no way to tell without trying it first. If that is impractical for you, then you need 40a. The issue is not the wiring, but how much current the motor draws on starting, and how tolerant the breaker is of high currents. I expect that Grizzly has gotten a bunch of complaints from people who tripped their 30a breakers, so they now require 40a breakers so they don't have to deal with the complaints even though 30a is usually adequate.

8" versus 6" is a difficult issue. Using as much 8" as you can is good, but a single tool on all 6" is probably fine. 3hp is more power than you need and will cover a lot of design errors. Don't lose a lot of sleep over it either way.

I hung my pipes with plastic plumbing straps; it has lasted 2 years so far.

I don't see how you could change the intake without a complete dissassembly.

[bruce buren]

marty

Yes I used a 8x6 sheet metal reducer

[lawrence dosson]

4 " through 7 " hanger brackets are available at Penn state industries page 62 in there current catalog from 12 to 16 dollars for a 5 pk.
the 4 " are available from most borgs
I used some of each 4 and 6 they leave the install looking neat

[John Spitters]

I've had a GO441 for about 5 yrs. now and am on my 3rd 30 amp breaker. The issue arises with start up especially if you have gates open, after having the breaker trip several times it tends to wear down and trip more often. The first time I replaced the breaker the arching had fused the wire to the breaker. I've never put a meter on the wire but obviously the motor draws in excess of its rated 22 amps on start up. When I installed mine Grizzly instructions called for #10 wire and 30 amp breaker, obviously they've revised that because of this very issue.

[Marty Tippin]

I noticed on my G0441 that the cord that runs from the magnetic switch to the motor is 12 gauge wire. If the current draw is so high, shouldn't that be a heavier gauge wire - I'd think 10 gauge at least?

I'm going to have to replace that cord, as the previous owner cut the cord because the collector was on a different floor from his machines. Should I upgrade to something heavier?

[Wade Lippman]

Did you complain to Grizzly about it at the time? Perhaps it is not too late to complain if your instructions called for 30a.

It won't help, but I would measure the startup current and compare that to the curve for your breaker. Something could be defective. I measured mine and found it shouldn't trip a 30a SquareD, and it hasn't.

[Wade Lippman]

I noticed on my G0441 that the cord that runs from the magnetic switch to the motor is 12 gauge wire. If the current draw is so high, shouldn't that be a heavier gauge wire - I'd think 10 gauge at least?

I'm going to have to replace that cord, as the previous owner cut the cord because the collector was on a different floor from his machines. Should I upgrade to something heavier?

The rules for device wiring are different than those for home wiring. Often they use wires that seem wholly inadequate.
Still, I would use a heavier cable.

[David L Morse]

I noticed on my G0441 that the cord that runs from the magnetic switch to the motor is 12 gauge wire. If the current draw is so high, shouldn't that be a heavier gauge wire - I'd think 10 gauge at least?

I'm going to have to replace that cord, as the previous owner cut the cord because the collector was on a different floor from his machines. Should I upgrade to something heavier?

I advise against trying to re-engineer a piece of equipment that already has CSA and UL approvals. For example, it's possible (unlikely I know, but possible) that the terminations for that wire are rated for no larger than 12 gauge wire and trying to cram 10 gauge in there would create a hazard. The engineers and technicians who do the safety certifications tend to be pretty conservative in their evaluations.

[glenn bradley]

I rotated my inlet and outlet to the same side as you describe. Not a big deal.

Cyclone 007.jpg

[Marty Tippin]

I rotated my inlet and outlet to the same side as you describe. Not a big deal.

Cyclone 007.jpg

Did you change it to that orientation after it was already assembled or did you set it like that during initial assembly? legs, which attach to the

[glenn bradley]

I assembled in the standard configuration first. Then disassembled and changed it to how you see it in the picture. I would recommend laying it on its side to do this. I propped the cone up with a block of phone that was part of the packing materials.

[Marty Tippin]

I'm planning to use 6" S&D pipe for the main run, but I can't figure out how to transition from the 8" inlet at the DC - it doesn't look like 8" S&D fittings are available locally, though I haven't called the plumbing supply houses yet. Anyone else using S&D pipe with their Grizzly cyclone? Glenn, it looks like you might be using schedule 40 PVC on yours?