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Thread: Cork Smudging

  1. #1

    Cork Smudging

    So I searched the forums and found discussions about suppliers, etc. but nothing addressing the smudging. I was requested to burn some cork products, and while they look absolutely stunning, they easily smudge, ultimately looking like hot garbage.

    Anyone have any tips on sealing the ash in?

    Thanks!
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  2. #2
    Just as an update, some fishing forums talk about sealing their rod handles with spray on lacquer or a clear acrylic spray. Any thoughts on that? It just needs to keep the dark engraving in place.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jacob John View Post
    Just as an update, some fishing forums talk about sealing their rod handles with spray on lacquer or a clear acrylic spray. Any thoughts on that? It just needs to keep the dark engraving in place.
    I use clear spray lacquer, the RustOleum brand, dries in about 5 minutes, might need more than one coat. I did try washing mine with soap and water... the lacquer works better. I make my own cork coasters, engrave and then vector cut.
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  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by Bill George View Post
    I use clear spray lacquer, the RustOleum brand, dries in about 5 minutes, might need more than one coat. I did try washing mine with soap and water... the lacquer works better. I make my own cork coasters, engrave and then vector cut.
    Good deal, and thanks! I'll definitely be picking some of that up this evening. Any idea how heat resistant it is? Some of the requests have been for pot pads as well. I'm not sure how hot a pot gets, but I'm not sure the very thin layer of lacquer would be affected.

    EDIT- Found this on the Rustoleum SDS - "CONDITIONS TO AVOID: Avoid temperatures above 120 ° F". Well, back to the drawing board I guess.
    Last edited by Jacob John; 12-11-2015 at 7:03 PM.
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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jacob John View Post
    EDIT- Found this on the Rustoleum SDS - "CONDITIONS TO AVOID: Avoid temperatures above 120 ° F".
    Yes, but is that for the cured finish, or the product in its aerosol can?
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  6. #6
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    Try washing off with soap and water, I don't think you will find anything for high temperature. My guess Lee that is for the can contents. The only way to find out is spray a test one and see what happens? Soap and water takes a lot of the black off.
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  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by Lee DeRaud View Post
    Yes, but is that for the cured finish, or the product in its aerosol can?

    It's listed under this section:

    "10. Stability and ReactivityCONDITIONS TO AVOID: Avoid temperatures above 120 ° F. Avoid contact with strong acid and strong bases. Avoid all possiblesources of ignition."

    Not sure, honestly. Hmmm
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  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Bill George View Post
    Try washing off with soap and water, I don't think you will find anything for high temperature. My guess Lee that is for the can contents. The only way to find out is spray a test one and see what happens? Soap and water takes a lot of the black off.

    I'll try that too, Bill. That would be an easy fix.
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  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by Lee DeRaud View Post
    Yes, but is that for the cured finish, or the product in its aerosol can?
    Quote Originally Posted by Jacob John View Post
    It's listed under this section:

    "10. Stability and ReactivityCONDITIONS TO AVOID: Avoid temperatures above 120 ° F. Avoid contact with strong acid and strong bases. Avoid all possiblesources of ignition."

    Not sure, honestly. Hmmm
    These are storage and use precautions. Cans can burst above 120°, I suppose strong acid and bases can cause spontaneous problems, and cured paint isn't particularly prone to catching fire...

    FWIW, you might try Rustoleum matte clear enamel, the matte finish works great when you don't want gloss, and would probably work well with cork-
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  10. #10
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    I've done Cork coasters myself, tried clear lacquer/varnish but being cork it tended to suck it up and was dificult to get an even finish. In the end I just brushed off as much dust as possible and gave them a light spray with Olive Cooking Oil.
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  11. #11
    I feel really stupid because soap and water appears to have worked. In my defense, I've never worked with cork. It ashes a ton more than any other item I've worked with.

  12. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by Kev Williams View Post
    These are storage and use precautions. Cans can burst above 120°, I suppose strong acid and bases can cause spontaneous problems, and cured paint isn't particularly prone to catching fire...

    FWIW, you might try Rustoleum matte clear enamel, the matte finish works great when you don't want gloss, and would probably work well with cork-
    Even though soap and water seems to have worked, I might experiment with it just to see how it comes out. Might not be a bad idea and offers additional protection.

  13. #13
    I wonder how sealing them first then laser and clean.
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  14. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by Bert Kemp View Post
    I wonder how sealing them first then laser and clean.
    I'll try that too. No harm in experimenting.

  15. #15
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    I should have pointed out that I only engraved cork & never cut it. I'd buy the cork from the $2 shops in packets of 4 or more round or square coasters and also larger ones about the size of a bread plate in packets of 2 or more. My biggest seller was the "Great Aussie Dartboard" that featured a Koala doing a brown eye.
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