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Thread: Feather Boards on the router Table

  1. #1
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    Feather Boards on the router Table

    I just watched a video on the MLCS website demonstrating a bit on the router table. They show using feather boards on the table (not fence) straddling the bit opening in the fence. I always thought that was an unsafe practice. Do any of you use a feather board in this manner on the router table?

    I thought this was an unsafe practice.

    Thanks
    George

    Making sawdust regularly, occasionally a project is completed.

  2. #2
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    Not straddling the bit, but before, and sometimes after the bit.
    Never, under any circumstances, consume a laxative and sleeping pill, on the same night

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Myk Rian View Post
    Not straddling the bit, but before, and sometimes after the bit.

    This is how I usually use them.
    George

    Making sawdust regularly, occasionally a project is completed.

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by Myk Rian View Post
    Not straddling the bit, but before, and sometimes after the bit.
    +1. I find feather boards on the table before and after the bit as well as on the fence itself are super helpful on the router table. It really all depends on the routing operation as to feather board placement.
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

  5. #5
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    I straddle the bit. One feather board needed instead of two.

    I can't imagine how this is unsafe. I've never had a problem.
    -Lud

  6. #6
    In my view, the need for hold downs and hold-ins (for non power-fed operations) signal risk.
    The operation is dangerous and should be re-evaluated.
    How can the job be done safely without them?

    Why? Because they (hold down etc) are risks themselves.
    If the work, fence or table are misshapen, the work will not slide smoothly, may rise up or snap as it leaves one hold down and enters the domain of another. Definitely a surprise you don't need.
    Moreover, rarely are they immune from slip/slide themselves. Should one slip, the work may kick back, self feed or the cutter may take more than it should and otherwise ruin the work.
    A simple single screw, clamp or magnet is not enough to hold one securely in the face of adversity.
    If you must, verify its efficacy, rigidity, run some samples first without power.
    Better yet find a safe way to do the operation without them.

  7. #7
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    I'm with Justin... never had a problem doing this, but most often, I put one forward and one aft. Straddling with one is better for smaller parts.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by pat warner View Post
    In my view, the need for hold downs and hold-ins (for non power-fed operations) signal risk.
    The operation is dangerous and should be re-evaluated.
    How can the job be done safely without them?

    Why? Because they (hold down etc) are risks themselves.
    If the work, fence or table are misshapen, the work will not slide smoothly, may rise up or snap as it leaves one hold down and enters the domain of another. Definitely a surprise you don't need.
    Moreover, rarely are they immune from slip/slide themselves. Should one slip, the work may kick back, self feed or the cutter may take more than it should and otherwise ruin the work.
    A simple single screw, clamp or magnet is not enough to hold one securely in the face of adversity.
    If you must, verify its efficacy, rigidity, run some samples first without power.
    Better yet find a safe way to do the operation without them.
    If I read you correctly Pat you are going against what we have always been told to use feather boards to hold work securely down and against the fence? How do you suggest keeping the stock against the fence and against the table?
    George

    Making sawdust regularly, occasionally a project is completed.

  9. #9
    It may require a re-think of the operation. & you're right, I am against them. They're crutches.
    Each operation is unique, no blanket answer. But I handle some dangerous narrow, thin & short pieces, wood, plastic and aluminum.
    I use sleds, harvest the work from larger pieces, fixturing etc., never hold-ins or downs.

  10. #10
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    It's unsafe on a table saw, not a router table. I've been doing his for years with no problems.
    Plus it's much safer for someone like me with only one hand. And yes, I have hung wallpaper and was very busy doing it.
    Do like you always do,,,,,get what you always get!!

  11. #11
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    Depends on what I want the feather board to do. For lighter material that may not hold itself steady at the bit, I straddle the bit. For raised panels I straddle the bit. Anytime I want control right at the cut, I straddle. Other times I use them before, after or before and after. It all depends on what I am asking the feather board to do.
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  12. #12
    This the first time I'm reading that featherboards across the bit are dangerous on a router table. Can you advise why?

    On a table saw, pushing anything into the rear of the blade can cause kickback, so featherboards are supposed to be before the blade. But the mechanics on a router table seem different: featherboards on the table would push the piece parallel and into the cutting path, not perpendicularly into the side of the bit/blade as can happen on a tablesaw. In this case, don't router table featherboards function more like 'board buddies' on a table saw? I would think there's a larger threat of kickback when router FENCE feather boards are positioned over or on the outfeed of large bits.

    Am I thinking wrong about this?

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Prashun Patel View Post
    This the first time I'm reading that featherboards across the bit are dangerous on a router table. Can you advise why?
    I thought I read somewhere in my earlier days of woodworking that it was dangerous to place feather boards across the router bit, guess from what everyone is saying I was incorrect.

    Thanks for all the reply's. I know that on the table saw the feather board only goes before the blade.
    George

    Making sawdust regularly, occasionally a project is completed.

  14. #14
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    Control for quality of cut is my primary use for any of these hold down devices. The potential to prevent kickback is a beneficial side effect.

    The most convenient device I've used for normal hold down is the Jessem ClearCut but they have their limits and use feather boards for the more awkward runs of trim stock.

    Just don't depend on any of these things to mitigate poor procedures of operation.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Ewell View Post
    The most convenient device I've used for normal hold down is the Jessem ClearCut but they have their limits and use feather boards for the more awkward runs of trim stock.
    Tom I have the Jessem Clear Cut but do not use them running 3/4" stock on edge. When running 3/4" stock on edge sometimes I need to use a push stick that is used on top of the stock and hooks the tail end and the Jessem ClearCut are in the way.
    George

    Making sawdust regularly, occasionally a project is completed.

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