Some where in a thread I read that the japanese are chopping their mortices in another way that western style woodworkers do. I tried to find it on Youtube, but maybe my IT fu is not good enough.
Anybody who can link to a video ?
Some where in a thread I read that the japanese are chopping their mortices in another way that western style woodworkers do. I tried to find it on Youtube, but maybe my IT fu is not good enough.
Anybody who can link to a video ?
Best regards
Lasse Hilbrandt
I'm curious too, as they say you should never level with Japanese chisels...
Until there is a better answer...I once saw a TV documentary that showed them planeing the mortises ..no, not the tenons ,the mortises.
Maybe Stu or Stanley can weigh in with a more complete answer, however;
In my experience there are more tools involved, one being a bottom scraping chisel and the other being a spear chisel. I chop the mortises in the usual way, but without levering the waste. I then clear the waste with an awl. Toward the bottom I will use a bottom scraping chisel to hit the depth.
Japanese mortise chisels are laminated with very hard edges, it's too harsh on them to lever waste.
Bumbling forward into the unknown.
They were big mortises for a temple, agree Stanley will be some help here.
In 1978 I was taught to mortise by Daniel O'Hagan (1923-2000). We use a flat bevel and ride the bevel as much as possible in making the mortise. Toshio Odate, writing in fine woodworking around 1982 showed a similar technique of riding the bevel.
Recently there have been proponents of a very different style, where the bevel of the chisel is altered so most of the bevel is cut away and only the very tip has a bevel at the cutting angle. In this style chopping rides the back of the chisel, not the bevel. It could be that this is what you mean by "western style woodworkers", but I doubt that this is any kind of historical method. All of the historic engravings I have seen show a mortising chisel with a single bevel.
I think I have found the answer. Its not a japanese chisel, but a normal bevel edge, but it must be the same teknique Paul Sellers show here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q_NXq7_TILA
Best regards
Lasse Hilbrandt
Maybe not the japanese way, but...look up the videos put out by GE Hong. Don't have to translate what he is saying.....just sit back and watch.....
This might be interesting https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=bQZsPs7jaPE
Looks like he starts in the middle of the mortise and works outward, if I remember right Paul Sellers starts on one end and works toward the other and then back again. I think both ways will get you a good mortise.
Lasse,
For me the method that Paul Sellers demonstrates works well - if one follows his approach very closely, I.e paring about 1/8 and doing so evenly. You may have noticed that in the demo he does run into some binding of the chisel. In my experience it isn't that bad unless you use a chisel that gets wider above the cutting edge. Another concern was not staying an 90 deg with the chisel edge at the marking line of the mortise. Also not a big problem if one corrects with the following cut of the chisel.
All in all, a good method demoed by a fine teacher of woodworking but one has to pay attention to the details.
Alfred
Less than 20 seconds into that video I knew I was going to see work getting done without much frou-frou. The shop tells you all you need to know. That's not the workspace of a guy who flits around getting little done in a day.
Thanks to the person who posted this.
I like that guy, he seems to get right to work.
I saw one video where he was cutting a half lap....It was impressive and accurate, especially for quick work.
Bumbling forward into the unknown.
If you continue along with these shows...and sit back and watch the one about an edge plane......you might be able to make one of these..
IMAG0051.jpg
I didn't have any "Rose wood", and mine is for the right hand, his is for the left. Iron is an old skew chisel....cut down from a Harbor Freight lathe chisel.
IMAG0055.jpg
Be careful cutting the slots in the fence....first one I did, snapped the end off. Leave a bit long on each end. That wedge is a bear to get just right...6 hours to make one?