Source for high-angle toothing plane?

[Mel Fulks]

The height thing is tangential here and I know that Zach and others know a lot about planes and there use. I only comment because I've always been interested the height question and believe it is not covered enough. Other things involved besides evolution. Rickets in children can reduce ultimate adult height. Pretty much gone now but was still a big deal when I was a child. Indeed I had rickets, and we were not especially poor,what we didn't have was TV and calcium pill commercials. Just as animal stock is improved by bringing in new blood so it is with people. Just a few generations back marrying first cousins was quite common,cars changed that.

[Allan Speers]

Anyone that has used a highly bedded toothing plane will know that you can not compare its required forces to that of a similar bedded plane fitted with a standard iron. The shaving actions are totally different.

Stewie;

VERY true.

[Allan Speers]

Hi Patrick

I do not have a problem with coffin shaped scraper type toothed planes. My understanding, however, is that they were principally designed to roughen the surface in preperation for glueing veneer .. and not for surface removal of interlocked grain, per se (that is, as an optional alternative to a scrub plane).

When it comes down to surface removal, and especially when one wants to take deeper shavings, then ergonomics must come into the equation. A short and high-sided coffin smoother will have a high centre of effort. It will be significantly more effort to push (in this situation) than a LA Jack (with a toothed blade). Since the purpose described here is rapid wasting of wood, I am prepared to bet my farm that the BU plane will be a preferred choice in a side-by-side comparison.

Derek

I agree, Derek, but only from very limited experience:

I do have a coffin-style toothing plane. I never measured it, but it's probably around 80 degrees. I fettled it well, and tried it once, and now it sits on my shelf looking pretty. The LV scraper plane/ toothed blade combo, even though 90 degrees, is just SO much easier to use. I don't know if it's due to lower center of gravity, a wider base, or the fact there are knobs for both hands, but the difference is huge.

Perhaps it would be useful for prepping for veneer, though, where you don't need as much force & where the light weight might be beneficial. I've done so little veneering that I can't say.

[bridger berdel]

http://www.gunpowderwoodworks.com/bl...-demonstration
Incidentally, you will only find the toothed blade available for bevel up planes. Here's why: the "teeth" are created on the blade by milling channels into the back side of the blade. If you were to mount that blade in a conventional bevel-down plane the channels would be facing up. The "shavings" from a toothed blade are very fine and granular and they would all get jammed into the channels under the chip-breaker and quickly clog the plane. On a bevel-down plane there is no chipbreaker and the milled grooves are on the bottom of the blade making for a nice smooth operation.

I beg to differ. I made a 45°, bevel down with chipbreaker toothed plane. It works just fine, no shavings jam under the chipbreaker.

[Christopher Charles]

Getting a bit off topic, but I've posed this question before: when using hide glue, why roughen the surface when veneering if hide glue gives a stronger bond than the wood itself (when used correctly)? Based on my limited experience with hammer veneering and more experience using a toothed workbench surface, my speculation is that the roughing is to help prevent the veneer from slipping around during hammering. Thoughts?

C

[Trevor Goodwin]

Increase surface area in contact with glue? Like cooling fins on a heatsink.

[Patrick Chase]

Getting a bit off topic, but I've posed this question before: when using hide glue, why roughen the surface when veneering if hide glue gives a stronger bond than the wood itself (when used correctly)? Based on my limited experience with hammer veneering and more experience using a toothed workbench surface, my speculation is that the roughing is to help prevent the veneer from slipping around during hammering. Thoughts?

C

George (I think) already addressed this. Oily woods are a case where the generalization about the glue being stronger than the wood doesn't apply.

[Stewie Simpson]

http://www.wood-database.com/wood-ar...cal-hardwoods/

[george wilson]

Toothing doesn't increase the surface area. To do that,the adjacent surface would have to exactly conform to the other one. It does give the glue a better mechanical grip. Very useful on oily woods.

Patrick C..We'd love to see some of your work. Don't be shy about posting pictures.

Did anyone look at Patrick Leach
s January tool list,where there's a minty Marples toothing plane for sale? That was the answer to the OP's question.

[Trevor Goodwin]

It does increase increase surface area for the glue to stick to. You have the original coplanar area + the walls of the trenches.

[Derek Cohen]

It does increase increase surface area for the glue to stick to. You have the original coplanar area + the walls of the trenches.

Trevor, it may increase the glue area, but what is more important is the wood-to-wood area. That is not increased. - unlike, for example, finger joints.

Regards from London

Derek

[george wilson]

Exactly,Derek. The wood to wood is all that matters. In oily woods,though,the glue getting a better mechanical grip helps.

I might add,the ability to properly analyze situations is a major key to getting somewhere.

[Stewie Simpson]

The original bevel angle on the toothing planes I have been using is 15*. Of the other irons I have in stock, a large no. are NOS single and double iron combinations I purchased from the U.K a few years ago. It would make a nice change to move away from making backsaws and get back into some traditional plane making work.

Stewie;

[Trevor Goodwin]

I might add,the ability to properly analyze situations is a major key to getting somewhere.

No, don't add. No one cares for your snide comments here. They add nothing to the discussion and make this forum look bad, so please just keep them to yourself.

[Derek Cohen]

Trevor, with respect, George does not make snide remarks. When he writes something, and especially when it differs from my procedure, I stop and think deeply about it. He is by far the most experienced and knowledgeable craftsman on this forum. His body of work places him in the exhalted area ... and I do not put people on pedestals easily.

I believe what George is saying - which is likely a projection of my own belief - is that we all need to think through/test or evaluate the information that we read on the forums. There are so many here just repeating what they read as though it was gospel. This is why I like to see the work of those pouring advice or recommendations here ... especially when they contradict me .. because I am always right!

Regards from London

Derek