Thoughts on wood floor in dry walk out basement workshop

[Don Parker]

I'm hoping to get some workshop flooring opinions on something before I buy a house.

The house was built in 1938. It has just the right mixture of maintaining the old house charm and necessary updates, and the price is good.

The house sits on top of a ridge (lots of those here in West Virginia). The front of the house has maybe 40 feet of yard, then the ridge starts. The back of the house exposes a walkout basement. Only the front 1/3 of the house is fully below grade. The middle 1/3 is mostly above grade, and the back 1/3 is above grade (steep hill). I say all this because I figure the lack of hydrostatic pressure is why the basement is dry. And it is completely dry.

Here is the real question. The front 1/3 of the basement has what appears to be original utility grade oak flooring on top of sleepers on top of the slab floor. I see no water damage to this flooring. If I buy this house, I would love to put utility grade oak flooring throughout the rest of the space, installed in the same or similar fashion. Having it all oak, and all the same level, will give me a great workshop/mud room/whatever unfinished useful space down there. If I don't do that, I will need to live with a step down (not crazy about that) or put some other flooring down to even the level. If I am going to have the whole floor at the same level, I really, really don't want to pull out the original floor, and if I build up to match the level of the existing floor, I might as well use utility oak so it all looks similar.

Assuming your preference would be to have a wood floor if feasible, would you try to build up and match the level of the existing floor in this particular dry walk-out basement?

Thanks for any help you can provide.

[Dan Schmidt]

I think a step down would bother me too. That said, depending how much total space the 1/3 represents, you may be able to us that section of your shop for a certain purpose (hand tool work, assembly, etc), so the step may not be that unnatural.
If it were me, I'd probably get everything to one level with wood floor, but I would try to find less expensive alternatives to matching the existing oak. I put DriCore panels in a previous shop and will probably use that again in my new shop.

[Daniel O'Neill]

As long as the basement is regularly dry it shouldn't be an issue to put additional wood flooring in. Perhaps something else to think about is height. If you put the floor in at the same height then will you end up being say just a couple inches too short to flip an 8 foot board? (or something along those lines). If that's not a concern it doesn't sound like additional flooring would be bed. If you wanted you could get some professional moisture/mold tests done in that area as a condition of sale. (maybe)

[Don Parker]

Thanks, Dan. I'm considering the DriCore. However, there is another crazy idea bouncing around in my head.

The worry with wood floors in basements is water damage, and the hassle and expense of removing the wood if/when water problems occur. I'm thinking about building 4 foot by 4 foot wooden flooring modules, each free standing. If I build them well, then they will give me a good, well supported wood floor, they will match the level of the existing floor I don't want to mess with, and each module will be removable if something goes wrong underneath. I figure 2x4 pressure treated down on the cement slab, covered by plywood, covered by utility grade oak. I can get the utility grade oak for 99 cents a square foot, and everything else at the local big box store. I can sink a few threaded inserts into the top of each module to help make removal easier, if ever needed. The last ones against the wall can be custom sized to create the right amount of gaps for expansion, but not so much that the floor moves around on me. It's more work to build these than to just lay a wood floor, but I like the idea of being able to pull up modules to check out the cement underneath.

Is this imprudent?

[Yonak Hawkins]

Floor composition is entirely dependent on your usage and your preferences for style and looks.

Some woodworkers like wooden floors because they're easier on their feet than concrete and so they can run electrical and ducting beneath them. I have a concrete floor because I use rolling carts and make full use of mobile equipment. I find things roll better on concrete than on wood with sleepers. I cushion my feet with good shoes.

That said, I agree all one level is more usable and less precarious.

[Don Parker]

As long as the basement is regularly dry it shouldn't be an issue to put additional wood flooring in. Perhaps something else to think about is height. If you put the floor in at the same height then will you end up being say just a couple inches too short to flip an 8 foot board? (or something along those lines). If that's not a concern it doesn't sound like additional flooring would be bed. If you wanted you could get some professional moisture/mold tests done in that area as a condition of sale. (maybe)

Daniel--

Actually, height is not an issue. The whole house has high ceilings (9 foot in the finished areas), including the basement. The basement might have closer to 9.5 feet of clearance. It is a really nice space (from a workshop perspective). Lots of natural light, lots of space, a place to put in a toilet . . . I may never need to go upstairs.

My home inspector is the best in the area, so if there are moisture issues, he will find them. I didn't see any telltale signs, however.

[Randy Rose]

Thanks, Dan. I'm considering the DriCore. However, there is another crazy idea bouncing around in my head.

The worry with wood floors in basements is water damage, and the hassle and expense of removing the wood if/when water problems occur. I'm thinking about building 4 foot by 4 foot wooden flooring modules, each free standing. If I build them well, then they will give me a good, well supported wood floor, they will match the level of the existing floor I don't want to mess with, and each module will be removable if something goes wrong underneath. I figure 2x4 pressure treated down on the cement slab, covered by plywood, covered by utility grade oak. I can get the utility grade oak for 99 cents a square foot, and everything else at the local big box store. I can sink a few threaded inserts into the top of each module to help make removal easier, if ever needed. The last ones against the wall can be custom sized to create the right amount of gaps for expansion, but not so much that the floor moves around on me. It's more work to build these than to just lay a wood floor, but I like the idea of being able to pull up modules to check out the cement underneath.

Is this imprudent?

A fair amount of work and expense but you would have an outstanding floor IMO

Mine is sheets of treated 3/4" T&G covered by 1/2" solid foam topped with 3/4" ply

[Ole Anderson]

Basements don't have to be wet. The only water I ever had in my 1500 sf walkout was during construction after a rainstorm and that was 41 years ago. I installed Pergo on roll foam on concrete in the rec room, shop and hall probably 5 years ago with no problems. Water heater has a floor drain adjacent and the laundry room is vinyl with the sump pump 2 feet from the washer. Not all basement water is from mother nature! Sure wish I had 9 foot ceilings though.

[Peter Aeschliman]

To be completely sure you don't have a moisture issue, duct tape a sheet of clear plastic to the floor for a day or two. Make sure to tape it completely so that it seals. If you have condensation, then you might need to reconsider the plan.

My basement floor seems dry to the touch, but unfortunately it fails this test when it's rainy outside.

Cheap and easy test.

[Prashun Patel]

I installed Dri-core in my basement bathroom. I like it.

The modular idea thing sounds good, but I wonder if it's more trouble for something that may never happen. My parents have been flooded 2-3 times over their 30 year history, and each time, insurance has covered the replacement.

Also, if you are doing HW floor for a workshop, watch them bevels...

[Don Parker]

I hear you, Prashun. The modules might involve a lot of extra work that is only meant to prepare for something that might never happen. However, in a basement like this, water is not the only thing that might cause me to want to see the floor underneath. A few years ago, this house had a small structural issue in the back (again, pretty common here in West Virginia) that has been fixed with helical piers. But I need to allow for the possibility that additional, similar fixes might be needed in the future. I would like to be able to see the floor if I start suspecting more foundation movement. This is why I am never going to finish the walls down there. I need to see what's going on.

We have beautiful scenery here in the Mountain State, but our homes all move downhill over time, unless we take steps.

[Dan Schmidt]

Don - your plan could certainly work. It's a bit more than I would tackle, but like any project is starts with your requirements. If you really want to be able to inspect the concrete at some regular intervals, then you don't have many choices but to pursue what you are. While I'm not pushing this solution, keep in mind that DriCore panels are simply T&G 2x2 panels which float --- nothing is permanently fastened down. It's certainly possible to disassemble / reassemble.

Regarding wood floors, they are a "must" for me in my workshop. I don't have one yet in my new shop and I'm missing it (in my plans...). Comfort for the feet, yes, but I also like the protection a wood (or well padded) floor gives to the inevitable dropped chisel or handplane.

[Rollie Kelly]

One other thing you might want to think about is radiant heat. I'm converting an empty 30x40 pole barn into a shop with an existing concrete floor. My intention is to put down bubble wrap, 2x sleepers with 1" insulation infill, with Pex-Al-Pex attached to that, then.5" insulation infill, covered with plywood. As I have gotten older I have gotten less tolerant of cold, hard floors. I think this is a function of age related decrease in circulation.
Good luck with your shop,
Rollie

[Jim Andrew]

When I built homes, I installed perforated pipe around the perimeter of the basement under the floor. If the house had a walkout, just ran a pipe through the exterior wall and drained it out the slope behind the house. If it did not have a walkout, drained it into a sump pit. Saved all the wet basement problems.

[Chris Stolicky]

My opinions:
- You always have a concern of water when you are underground. Is the soil well drained, i.e sand? If so, you are in better shape.
- If you have no signs of previous water damage, that's a good sign. Take a look at the existing wood flooring, do you see signs of warping due to previously getting wet?
- Its utility oak, not a huge price difference versus other flooring options. I'm about to put it down in my shop.
- Check the existing sump pump. Is there water in the hole? Does it run much?
- Lay some plastic on the floor for a while and see if any condensation forms underneath.

Good luck.