Advise on Saw for cabinet building

[David Ashley]

I have a house full of cabinets to build and honestly paying a business to build them for 40 50 60 K just seems astronomical. I have used plenty of wood tools own a small collection and have built things as I needed to, even have done my own windows in my home. So not new to carpentry but mostly new to woodworking. So it has come time to step up to the plate and buy a table saw.

I have used a few small saws in the past sub $300 and the wife really don't want me spending 3K on a saw. But I kind of feel that a bigger saw 36+ is really needed to build quality cabinets for my home. without feeling like shooting oneself. I admit I have lived this long without a table saw but have also hacked my way through, borrowed something and or gone to father in laws to get stuff done. He has a decent sized Jet but in a shop that has never been setup or easy to work in + its a bit of a drive.

So looking for advice on Size and maybe brands of what to look at.
Can I get away with something from Home Depot or should I pony up to something a bit bigger?

[Mark Wooden]

I'd recommend a good, solid 10"cabinet saw that will last. I consider the table saw to be the very center of a woodworking shop. To keep costs down, consider a used saw. The most popular saw ever is the Delta Unisaw and there are a lot of them around at a good price, as well as the Powermatic 65/66 saws that tilt left, a really nice feature for angled rips and lefties ;-). Both companies also made very good open stand contractors saws that are excellent performers. Some of the older Craftsman saws were ok, but others were a bone the day they were made so you have to be careful when looking at them. Walker Turner also made a great saw, but they have some idiosyncrasies that have to be worked around also, so I'd stick with the US made Delta's and Powermatics. Avoid used Asian machines as it doesn't take much to wear them out and rebuilding usually isn't worth it.
You can build an awful lot with a 25" rip capacity saw, which is what used to be standard for the fences on 10" saws. Aftermarket fences abound and sometimes you can find a set of longer accessory guide rails to fit stock fences.
Get a decent combo blade, a good rip blade and a good dado set and start building.

[Cody Colston]

For a good cabinet saw or contractor's saw at a really, good price, check out Grizzly. You can find better saws but your will be hard pressed to find a better bargain.

A satisfied Grizzly woodworking machines owner.

[Jesse Busenitz]

Where do you live? I would recommend looking on CL for a used saw with 50" fence. Or if you get a good deal on a saw buy a new fence. There is nothing more important than your saw when building cabinets imho.

[David Ashley]

Where do you live? I would recommend looking on CL for a used saw with 50" fence. Or if you get a good deal on a saw buy a new fence. There is nothing more important than your saw when building cabinets imho.

I agree having quality tools have helped me in the past, and have dealt with make shift before as well. I have been looking around on Seattle CL but nothing is a have to buy yet. I must admit the sawstop has peaked my interest but no used ones. There are a few Jet saws just haven't decided.

[David Ashley]

Mark and Cody. I will take a look at those, thank you for your comments.

[Jim Becker]

If you'll be working with sheet goods, a reasonable alternative to a large saw (and the material handling that comes with sheet goods) is a good quality track saw for breaking down sheets with precision. You can then use a smaller table saw to accommodate any narrow rips.

[Kevin Womer]

If you'll be working with sheet goods, a reasonable alternative to a large saw (and the material handling that comes with sheet goods) is a good quality track saw for breaking down sheets with precision. You can then use a smaller table saw to accommodate any narrow rips.

Those are my thoughts, a good track saw and a smaller table saw with a good blade will get you there.

[Rich Engelhardt]

If your plans include an upper corner cabinet, that alone will justify the cost of a track saw.
Just make sure that once you complete the carcass, you turn it upside down on a large piece of cardboard and trace the outline on the cardboard. That way, you'll have a nice handy template to use later on to make a shelf or shelves.

The cutting part of my modest kitchen project went very smooth.

- Ridgid TS3600 contractor saw w/Freud Glue Line Rip blade
- Festool TS55EQ track saw.
- Milwaukee 5625 router - table mounted
- Marc Sommerfeld T&G system (bits and featherboard)
- Kreg K3 Master jig

[Chris Hachet]

If you'll be working with sheet goods, a reasonable alternative to a large saw (and the material handling that comes with sheet goods) is a good quality track saw for breaking down sheets with precision. You can then use a smaller table saw to accommodate any narrow rips.

This would be my thought. You will get much more bang for the buck IMHO with a new track saw than a used table saw unless your good at buying used machinery. IMHO someone is usually selling it for a reason....

[John TenEyck]

Personally, I would buy an old Unisaw, Powermatic, General or European saw. If buying new, the only one I would consider is the Sawstop as it's the only cabinet saw with the technology to prevent a life altering accident. Since you said $3K is out of the question, it would be one of those used saws. I have a 1954 Unisaw with a 50" fence, and it does everything I ask of it and it does it very well.

John

[John Goodin]

I suspect you will have a hard time finding a used Sawstop. They have not been in production for decades like delta and powermatic. And more importantly, for most people that saw is the last one they plan on buying.

I have a grizzly with a 26" cut and built in router table and just plan on getting adding a track saw when I build kitchen cabinets.

[John Goodin]

I suspect you will have a hard time finding a used Sawstop. They have not been in production for decades like delta and powermatic. And more importantly, for most people that saw is the last one they plan on buying.

I have a grizzly with a 26" cut and built in router table and just plan on getting adding a track saw when I build kitchen cabinets.

both can be had for less than 2k and the track saw can be sold at a good price easily after you are done.

[Ben Grefe]

I have been looking around on Seattle CL but nothing is a have to buy yet. I must admit the sawstop has peaked my interest but no used ones. There are a few Jet saws just haven't decided.

As another user in the Seattle area, I think your chances of finding a used Saw Stop on CL are slim. Ontop of that, if something does pop up, I doubt it'll be a good deal. I've been watching the CL used table saw market for a few months now - it's pretty dim. In general, any good CL deal (for any product) around here is snatched up within an hour or two.

I'd have to agree with the other poster who suggested heading up to Bellingham for Grizzly's store. I think they even have a dents n' scratch store that might help you out. The G069x or G1023 saws are probably right in your budget.

Lastly, you can do what every other Seattleite does and drive down to PDX to save on tax.

[Jim Andrew]

Don't forget to watch the classifieds on this forum, and woodweb for combo machines and sliders. I have seen some terrific deals on hobbyist machines. But they are usually halfway across the country from where I live in Kansas.