radial arm saw

[jeff oldham]

I have an old craftsman radial arm saw and I am in the process of trueing it up and I have done everthing the manual says,,but my problem is that then it cuts,,it actually goes thru the wood at a angle,,the blade actually pushes the wood back,,the manual says to move the rail system unloosten a bolt on the bach so you can move it right or left,,i have tried this and cant seem to get it to move,,i know its old and but can anyone tell me how to set the rail ,,or move the rail,,,,i hate to get rid of it,,,but I really would like to have it cutting square,,i did everything the manual says and layed a square on the table to make sure the blade runs true from the back to the front and it does,,but I still have the same trouble when I start it,,the blade goes thru at a angle and pushes the wood to the left,,i even changed blades but still no luck,,,,

[Tom M King]

The bearings in the rollers on the arm have eccentric centers. It takes a lot of fiddling, but you can get it to cut perfectly, at least if it's like the 12" that I have which I bought new in 1974. I only use mine for accurate 90 degree cuts, like tenon shoulders and such. If you let it hang up hard in a sorry board, it will probably be the end of that adjustment. I haven't had to touch mine in 20 years to adjust it, and it still makes a perfect crosscut, but I never do rough work with it.

[Bill Orbine]

"the blade goes thru at a angle and pushes the wood to the left"

Sounds like you are describing the face of the blade is not parallel to the linear motion of the blade travel. For that, you need to make adjustments at the top of the yoke where it attaches to the roller carriage.

[Rick Potter]

Not quite sure from your description. If the blade does not cut at a 90 degree angle to the fence, there should be adjustments for the stops on the column.

If the blade is cutting a kerf that is thicker than the blade, you need to adjust the 'heel', like Bill mentioned. Small screws in the yoke do that, but don't do it unless you are sure. If it is not in your manual, try googling ' radial arm saw blade heel', or something like that.

[Randy Rose]

Also. inspect the rails that the rollers ride on and "flip" them if worn

[jeff oldham]

since my last posting I have tried everyone's advice on setting up my radial arm saw, watched videos and even got a new blade for it and now I find out the blade is veering about 3/8" from the back stop where the blade starts cutting to the end of the carriage....lol...I have checked the settings over and over but this is happening now. Any more suggestions before I scrap it? lol

[Ronald Blue]

Can you better clarify what is happening? I think you are saying it is off line by 3/8" from the beginning of the cut to the end of stroke which would indicate a need to zero it in at 90 degrees.

[Matt Day]

Its usually best to post to your first thread so we have the background information. For instance what saw do you have? Are you going by the manual to set it up?

Everything is adjustable on RAS's you just have to follow the proper setup procedures.

[Lee Schierer]

Can you take a couple of photos show what the problem is and post them here?

[Tom M King]

Does the sliding part have any slop on the rails side to side?

[Tom Ewell]

Assuming no problems with the arm tracking then it should be adjustable as Matt points out.
If it's cutting out of square relative to the fence, the arm needs to be adjusted.
If the blade is skewed in either direction, the head angle needs to be adjusted.
Make sure the table is flat and in plane with the arm.
Make sure the arm lock, detent etc is secure when cutting.

Probably the most troubling things with these saws is that they are so adjustable, if one adjustment is off then all is off in varying degrees.

[Tom Deutsch]

This situation sounds dangerous, Jeff. I think we're all having trouble understanding from your description exactly what is happening but I wouldn't plug the thing in. There is a reason RAS saws went out of fashion, and maladjustment is the chief one along with lesser build quality. Just my opinion.

[larry senen]

This situation sounds dangerous, Jeff. I think we're all having trouble understanding from your description exactly what is happening but I wouldn't plug the thing in. There is a reason RAS saws went out of fashion, and maladjustment is the chief one along with lesser build quality. Just my opinion.

as it was explained to me "there are no SMALL ACCIDENTS" on a radial arm saw. it's all or nothing

[Tom Deutsch]

Don't get me wrong - I love my DeWalt GP - but it has mass on its side and holds adjustments under pressure (so as not to turn boards into projectiles).

[Erik Christensen]

I have a 12" delta turret RAS - it is a replacement for a craftsman I had for decades

the RAS is like a shaper - a tool with a justified 'dangerous' reputation due to the tool's intolerance of ignorant/careless users

get it tuned up - install the proper blade (neg hook angle) - use it correctly & a RAS is no more dangerous than any other wood cutting tool