Just tried Wood Turners Finish

[Randy Red Bemont]

I just tried some wood turners finish on an ambrosia maple bowl and I like the results. It went on nice and built up rather quickly. I bought two bottles thinking it would take a lot to finish a bowl but it went farther than I thought. I would like a little more amber tone but I can live with this. Anyone else use this product? I do like it.

Red

[Roger Chandler]

Red....I have used WTF [Wood Turners Finish] a good bit. I use it on mostly small and medium projects, and have had good success with it. My two problems with it came when it was middle of the summer in my non-air conditioned shop, and the project was a large platter, and another that I don't particularly recall. The large items and the hot climate in my shop made the drying so quick that it blotched, streaked and generally made me have to re-sand and take it down and put another type finish on the platter.

I like the stuff, but one needs the right temps and right application technique for it. I like finishing on the lathe when possible, and most of the time I have gotten really nice results. It will build up with multiple applications, so generally, I smooth every three layers until I get to the last one, and make sure that the next to the top layer is smoothed with synthetic pad [white] and then let the last coat just dry......beautiful deep glossy finish.

[Brice Rogers]

How does WTF compare with Tung Oil (Formby's) or with "O B Shine Juice".

I'm currently experimenting with OB Shine Juice (1 part dewaxed white shellac, 1 part denatured alcohol and 1 part BLO). The "jury is still out". It doesn't seem to work well on avocado (something in the wood is interfering with it curing - - tends to stay wet and keeps soaking in) but works better on some other woods.

[Roger Chandler]

Brice, I have not used Formby's on turnings yet. I have some but I mostly use WOP[wipe on poly], Antique oil, Danish oil or the WTF referenced here. I always use Zinzer Seal Coat as a base to pop the grain unless I use Walnut oil, which is from Doctors Woodshop, or Mahoney's.

[Dick Mahany]

I have used General Woodturners Finish a lot for pen finishing. It leaves an extremely durable finish that is smooth to the touch. It does dry quite quickly, so subsequent layer build up has been relatively easy. The only problem that I ever had with it was when I was using a heat gun to force drying when my shop was cold and humidity was high. It caused a white-ish cloudy appearance and had to be sanded off and reapplied. Totally my fault. Otherwise it has never been a problem. I buy it in quarts now

I have read a few posts where users felt that it left a "plastic" feel to the piece, which of course is really what it is.

[Justin Stephen]

I used it on a couple of segmented bowls a few years ago after reading a thread or two here about it. I liked how quickly additional coats could be added but did not care for the tactility of the finished product much. It was indeed to plastic-y for me. I could see maybe trying it again as a topcoat for an oil/varnish finish, which is what I mainly use WOP for now, although I'm not sure that would work well.

[Randy Red Bemont]

I can see where high temps and humidity effect the finish since it is water based. My workshop is heated and cooled so that won't be a problem. It does go on very easy and smooth and that's what I like. I've had OK results with the OB shine juice.

Red

[Greg Just]

I use is a lot on the travel mugs that I make and it holds up really well. Unfortunately it is very expensive and finding it in quarts is nearly impossible around here. Rockler and Woodcraft don't carry the quarts anymore. I have switched to Deft water-based poly but I haven't decided if it's as durable as WTF.

[Randy Red Bemont]

I'm only able to find it in the 8oz squeeze bottle.

Red

[David C. Roseman]

My experience with General Finishes' WTF is consistent with most of the above comments. Application is tricky because of the drying characteristics, and the final finish can be a bit more "plasticly", as stated. But it is outstanding on very light woods (such as Sycamore, Holly, and certain Maples, including Ambrosia Maple that Red used). Also great for small objects that will be handled a lot, because of durability. Good for the lighter woods because it does not impart the warm amber tone that oil and oil/urethane finishes often give (and which makes them quite desirable for darker woods).