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Thread: Jet 1642 Bearings

  1. #1

    Jet 1642 Bearings

    There's a thread from 2010 which describes how to chage the bearings on a Jet 1642. The bearing kit listed in the instructions is Triple Sealed Nachi Bearings Kit #9706 and 9708 from VXB. I cannot find these bearings on the VXB website. Does anyone know if the kit # has changed, or, is there another source for the bearings. Thanks.

  2. #2
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    I have not had to change my Jet 1642 bearings yet, but I just googled one of the bearing numbers in your post and found one on Amazon. The bearing has a different number in the heading, but under the description it specifies the Kit 9706.

    You could also call any local bearing shop and inquire. I usually find replacement bearing for my tools from a local bearing shop and many times they have been in stock. You can cross reference the Nachi P/N to any of the other manufacturers and see what's available.
    Dick Mahany.

  3. #3
    Good suggestions Dick. Thanks.

  4. #4
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    http://www.vxb.com/6207-2NSE-Nachi-B...-p/kit9708.htm
    http://www.vxb.com/6205-2NSE-Nachi-B...-p/kit9706.htm

    These are the items I used. Just search 9706 and 9708 on their site. Those are kit numbers while the bearing numbers are 6205-2NSE and 6207-2NSE. These seam a bit stiffer than the shielded bearings. I have had to replace mine and I am not a heavy user.

    They also list shielded bearings that have a slightly higher load rating. Just search for 6205 and 6207 to see all bearings that will fit.
    Retired - when every day is Saturday (unless it's Sunday).

  5. #5
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    I've been researching bearings for my 1642 and am ordering mine from http://www.locateballbearings.com most probably SKF or NSK. They've been quite helpful and seem to be trustworthy. I also found the Nachi bearings but was told the SKF & NSK were better quality bearings (6207ZZ & 6205ZZ) May or may not help you, just saying what I am going with. Good luck!

  6. #6
    Thanks Thom and Roland for the info.

    Thom- you say that the 9706 and 9708 seem a bit stiffer. Your next sentence says that "I have had to replace mine". Did you mean that you had to replace the 9706/9708 after installing them, or, were you referring to the originals that you replaced with 9706/9708? Thanks.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Edward Weingarden View Post
    Thanks Thom and Roland for the info.

    Thom- you say that the 9706 and 9708 seem a bit stiffer. Your next sentence says that "I have had to replace mine". Did you mean that you had to replace the 9706/9708 after installing them, or, were you referring to the originals that you replaced with 9706/9708? Thanks.
    Hi Edward, I am not trying to speak for Thom and I am sure he will jump in here with the clarification you're asking for but it has been my experience that rubber sealed bearings will naturally be a little stiffer to turn by hand due to the tightness of the rubber seals verses metal seals. The rubber is actually tight against the inner and outer races and does make the bearing feel stiffer but the tightness insures that the bearing retains it's lubrication and keeps foreign matter out of the race. Metal seals actually have a small gap(not enough to leak lub) between the seal and the inner race so will seem to spin a little easier. However, both types of bearings will work fine in the 1642. The rubber seal will eventually "break" in and spin just as easily as the metal sealed ones but will retain a better sealing of the bearing.

    Hope this is helpful.
    Last edited by James Combs; 01-21-2016 at 12:04 PM.
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  8. #8
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    When I replaced my bandsaw bearings, I had to go through the "shielded" (metal seals) vs. "sealed" (rubber seals) debate. The rubber sealed bearings definitely had more spinning resistance since they truly sealed the bearing, whereas the original shielded bearings were free wheeling, but didn't seal as well. I decided to use sealed over shielded and never had a problem with them, but I read that they may not have been as good for extended high speed applications as the shielded versions...........always tradeoffs.

    When I built my vacuum adapter for the 1642, I also used sealed bearings and it was fine even at higher speeds.
    Last edited by Dick Mahany; 01-21-2016 at 12:16 PM.
    Dick Mahany.

  9. #9
    I don't know if dust gets into the area where the bearings are but I think I'll opt for the sealed ones. Thanks to all.

  10. #10
    In my area there is an Applied Industrial store they have a good selection of bearings.

  11. #11
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    I had to replace the Nachi's after about 5 years. I replaced the originals shortly after the article you mentioned came out. The rear bearing was acting up after I used the Kelton corer. I replaced with more of the Nachi, but If I do it again it will be the type ZZ bearings I think.
    Retired - when every day is Saturday (unless it's Sunday).

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dick Mahany View Post
    When I replaced my bandsaw bearings, I had to go through the "shielded" (metal seals) vs. "sealed" (rubber seals) debate. The rubber sealed bearings definitely had more spinning resistance since they truly sealed the bearing, whereas the original shielded bearings were free wheeling, but didn't seal as well. I decided to use sealed over shielded and never had a problem with them, but I read that they may not have been as good for extended high speed applications as the shielded versions...........always tradeoffs.

    When I built my vacuum adapter for the 1642, I also used sealed bearings and it was fine even at higher speeds.
    Since I do a lot of small items I tend to use the higher speeds, however the Nachi claim their speed limit is about 9000rpm if i recall correctly.
    Retired - when every day is Saturday (unless it's Sunday).

  13. #13
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    My comment will probably make a few of the purists cringe, but I've replaced the bearings on several Jets (and other brands) and bought from any source OTHER than the lathe manufacturer they're a cheap investment and a quick fix. I buy the basic shielded ones and don't worry about the dust (which seems to get into everything anyway). The bearings for my 14-42 cost me $8 each and I installed all three in 30 minutes, lubing and adjusting everything else in the process. I've learned that paying attention to this one high-stress wear point prevents damage to the spindle, pulleys, and speed adjustment mechanisms.

    Anticipating questions about suppliers in my area, I picked them up at McGuires in Tacoma. They may have stores in other regions of the country.
    Last edited by Russell Neyman; 01-23-2016 at 12:06 PM.

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  14. #14
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    Ok. Question is, how old was your 1642's when you had to replace the bearings. I understand some turners put more hours on there lathe than some, but Jet has a 5 year warranty, if that really means anything. My Jet is about 18 month old and has about 800 hours on it now , and I hope I don't have to change anything in the near future.

  15. #15
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    Ok. Question is, how old was your 1642's when you had to replace the bearings.
    If I may chime in - my 1642 is about 12 years old, I use it a lot, and have not yet had to replace the bearings. However, I mostly turn small things which may make a difference compared to someone who turns large, heavy blanks which may cause more stress.

    I have a second 1642 about the same age and the friend I bought it from also used it heavily - same thing, mostly turned relatively small things, original bearings still OK.

    JKJ

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