Most of the strength of apron-to-leg M&T joints comes from the cheeks of the tenon. This is because this is the section of the tenon that intersects with the straight grain of the mortise.
The edge of the tenon intersects with end grain in the mortise. As we know, end grain does not glue well at all.
The problem with dowels is that they are round. The strongest part of the glue joint in a dowel is the apex of the dowel, where it touches long grain. Everywhere else, it is transitioning from long grain to edge grain. So the strongest part of the joint is very small.
A domino, or better yet, a traditional M&T joint, has way more face grain than an equivalent dowel, even if you drill lots of dowels next to each other.
And this is why having a mortise that is every so slightly wider than the tenon is not a problem- that area of the mortise is not strong anyway.