joining apron to leg in table

[Robert Rifkin]

Hi,
I'm making a pair of end tables and I'd like to know how to join the aprons, approximately 6" wide, to the legs. I'm worried that a "straight" mortise and tenon joint might result in the apron cracking with expansion/contraction. I've seen tenons spit into multiple sections, but it seems to me that would not alleviate the fundamental tendency of the apron to split if the grain direction of the apron is perpendicular to that of the leg. Can someone recommend a joinery technique that will alleviate this problem? Or, am I being too cautious?
thanks.
bob

[Art Mann]

As far as I know, either mortise and tenon joints or dowels have been used for at least 250 years to attach legs to aprons. Some of those pieces still exist in places like Williamsburg,VA and have never been repaired. Nowadays, I'm sure people also use dominos. I don't know what else there is. Mortise and tenons are pretty much the standard against which all other joints of this type are measured.

[Jamie Buxton]

6" of cross-grain joint should be okay. But if you're really worried, glue just the middle three or four inches.

[Donald Bear]

I think pocket holes would be OK too.

[Doug Hepler]

Robert,

As was suggested earlier, a solid tenon glued only at the top, in a slightly (1/4") over-long mortise, works well. A forked tenon has been recommended for this application. Glue the top tenon and let the bottom slide in a slightly over-long mortise.

If you are making this in a heated shop in February, the relative humidity (RH) should be low. Depending on where you live, you might see a 10% change in RH from indoors winter to indoors summer. For most hardwoods, that might translate to a maximum change in width of less than 1/4" in a 6" hardwood board. The tenon would be shorter than 6" , so the expansion would be less than the estimate. So you could possibly just use a normal M&T joint but I would recommend taking wood expansion into account.

Just for the fun of it -- When I have made tables with very wide aprons (e.g., to accommodate drawers) I have chosen to attach aprons and legs using sliding dovetails. They are a bit "hardcore" and take longer to make but they have the advantage that the joint is mechanically as strong as the wood. I cut the mortise in the leg with a router. You should definitely hog out some wood with a straight bit and then finish with the dovetail bit. Then I cut the tail (tenon) in the apron on a router table (one cheek against the fence and then the other.) Cut them a bit fat and then trim them. Make a taper so that they will tighten as they slide together. Apply glue only to the top inch or so. Once you have assembled the joint you will not be able to get it apart again, so dry-fit carefully before applying glue.

Doug .

[Troy Turner]

Just because your apron is 6" wide doesn't mean your mortise needs to accommodate that. Maybe a 3" wide mortise and tenon joint. You can do the forked as suggested then peg them if your worried about expansion/contraction. I'd personally just glue it in there as others have suggested.

You could also go with mechanical fastners as well, just depends on the piece.

[Art Mann]

Good point. Pocket screws will substitute for M&T for a lot of butt joint applications. The trick is to hide or at least disguise the screws.

I think pocket holes would be OK too.

[Dan Masshardt]

I'm making some end tables using dominos for those joints, but I'd imagine you don't want to invest in that machine right now.

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi,
I'm making a pair of end tables and I'd like to know how to join the aprons, approximately 6" wide, to the legs. I'm worried that a "straight" mortise and tenon joint might result in the apron cracking with expansion/contraction. I've seen tenons spit into multiple sections, but it seems to me that would not alleviate the fundamental tendency of the apron to split if the grain direction of the apron is perpendicular to that of the leg. Can someone recommend a joinery technique that will alleviate this problem? Or, am I being too cautious?
thanks.
bob

Hi, make a 3 inch wide tenon in the center of the apron............Regards, Rod.

[Frank Drew]

Tenoning wide-ish boards, I like to divide the tenon in two, with a small haunch in between the sections and a haunch at the top to preserve the strength of the mortise all along its length. A separate issue is if a six-inch rail if proportionate for a small table.

[Al Launier]

Despite not being a totally woodworking solution I use steel table leg brackets https://www.google.com/webhp?sourcei...leg%20brackets when the apron hides them. I feel they are stronger & are easily disassembled if ever needed. Just need a slot on each apron for the bracket lip to catch on.