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Thread: lasering crystal

  1. #1
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    lasering crystal

    Hello,
    Just wondering if there is a way to get the engraving "whiter" on crystal. I've noticed some products in the supplier catalogs show samples engraved show the finished product with nice white looking engraving, but when I laser it, it is much lighter. I usually use my glass setting at 400dpi 35 speed 100 power on a 35 watt machine. It is possible that it was done at 600dpi as well. It it just the way it is or maybe it's sandblasted or just the way the light hits it in the photos?????
    Thanks

  2. #2
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    My guess is....sandblasted.
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  3. #3
    The images in many catalogs are fake.
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  4. #4
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    As a point of reference traditional "crystal" cannot be laser engraved because it has lead in it. "non-lead crystal" which is a more modern variation can be engraved. *Ross is correct.* Photographing glass is a nightmare so it is rare for them to take the time to photograph each with a new design and/or they sandblast it.
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  5. #5
    I agree with Tony. The stuff is likely sandblasted. That is the best way to mark glass or crystal.
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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Keith Winter View Post
    As a point of reference traditional "crystal" cannot be laser engraved because it has lead in it. "non-lead crystal" which is a more modern variation can be engraved.
    I'm not sure why this wive's tale keeps getting repeated. I have no issues with doing leaded crystal.
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  7. #7
    A good photographer can 'fix' the lighting and background to enhance the subject matter.

    A kid near me makes these knives, I laser his signature on them. The stainless is so utterly mirror-shiny that in most places, and especially in my basement workshop, you can barely find his name on the blade because of all the background reflections. A good photographer can probably even make ME look good!

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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Hintz View Post
    I'm not sure why this wive's tale keeps getting repeated. I have no issues with doing leaded crystal.
    In my experience lead crystal doesn't work, doesn't take the beam well. What % lead crystal have you had success with?
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Keith Winter View Post
    In my experience lead crystal doesn't work, doesn't take the beam well. What % lead crystal have you had success with?
    My biggest throughput is with Riedel glassware... I've lost count of the number of glasses, decanters, etc. I've done. They're at 24%, if memory serves. I think I posted pics of some of my first pieces done many years back (and my quality has improved since then). I don't do many awards as that's not a market I want to compete in, but I have done a few leaded crystal pieces over the years... I expect those were closer to the 35% mark.
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Hintz View Post
    My biggest throughput is with Riedel glassware... I've lost count of the number of glasses, decanters, etc. I've done. They're at 24%, if memory serves. I think I posted pics of some of my first pieces done many years back (and my quality has improved since then). I don't do many awards as that's not a market I want to compete in, but I have done a few leaded crystal pieces over the years... I expect those were closer to the 35% mark.
    Interesting. I have the same machine so it should be similar. As for lead crystal it tended to not take the beam consistently if memory serves. It's been a long time though and I'm more experienced now, I will give it another shot when I can.
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  11. #11
    There's also the simple issue of no two machines are alike. I've been using 4 different lasers the past several months, 3 with Synrad lasers and the glass Triumph. As for engraving glass, my LS900 will laser it beautifully, with very little if any fracturing. The results literally look like sandblasting...

    The GCC on the other hand, I just spent 3 days trying to find the glass sweet spot, but I've yet to find it... no matter how slow, how fast, the power I use, the resolution settings, using all black, using various gray shades to 40%, using every type of dithering known to man in various dpi settings, using various grayscale percentage adjustments, and all of the above in every combination I can think of-- the glass fractures badly. I'm still experimenting, and I may find it, but I'm not holding my breath!

    The Triumph, I can actually melt glass with it, and it looks GREAT-- but it's moot because most glass I've tried won't handle that much heat...

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  12. #12
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    Thank you all for your input. Much appreciated.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Hintz View Post
    My biggest throughput is with Riedel glassware... I've lost count of the number of glasses, decanters, etc. I've done. They're at 24%, if memory serves. I think I posted pics of some of my first pieces done many years back (and my quality has improved since then). I don't do many awards as that's not a market I want to compete in, but I have done a few leaded crystal pieces over the years... I expect those were closer to the 35% mark.
    The only problem I have ever had with Riedel glass, is the wine glasses, being very thin. I can etch text and simple graphics just fine, but a photograph concentrates too much heat in too small an area, and the glass shatters. I had a customer drop off two, and wanted his dogs photo on them, it seemed to etch fine, but literally fell apart in my hands when I tried to clean it.. Told the customer that if he wished, I would put the photo on ordinary sodalime glass wine glasses, and he was happy with the results. I know generally that the old wives tale about expanding lead etc is out there, so I always CMA by telling them there 'is' a possibility, and if it happens, all the pieces will still belong to them.. The glass below is the one in question (finally etched onto ordinary glass)
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