[OP]
Member
It's been awhile since I've posted anything. Got sidetracked with crazy pen orders this year and finally was asked to turn some bowls/platters for a friend. I have a question.... I used lacquer as my finish and I'm wondering what you guys recommend me wrapping them with foe shipping? I'm afraid simple bubble wrap will stick to it. Can I use parchment paper? Any Help would be appreciated!
Contributor
Never use bubble wrap next to a piece! Tissue paper or newspaper and foam peanuts.
[OP]
Member
Newspaper....that's a good idea!
thanks John, how you been doin?
Member
watch that the ink from the newsprint doesn't rub off. I have never had a problem with bubble wrap. if your finish is drt there should not be a problem. if there is a newspaper located close by(an office) you can always buy roll ends reasonably and there is no ink
ron
Contributor
Ron, you are lucky with using bubble wrap. I did a turning exchange a few years ago and the other turner shipped to me his piece wrapped in bubble wrap. It melted the finish and was literally attached to the turning. I peeled it off and there remained deep imprints of the bubble wrap all over the piece. I have never had a problem with the ink on newspapers getting on turnings, as usually that requires the presence of moisture.
Lee, I have been doing fine. Just getting older, which is a good thing!
Contributor
Uhaul sell boxes of packing paper- like newsprint but thicker, and no ink (if that's a problem). They may also have it in the "moving" section of Home Depot. I like it because it's pre-cut in decent-sized sheets, so it's easier to used than rolls - no scissors- and its thickness makes it good for balling up to use for filler instead of peanuts or those plastic balloons Amazon uses. I ship tools wrapped in it all the time.
Karl
Member
I suspect many of the mentioned problems have to do with a finish that is not fully cured. In most cases with a fully cured finish I would think there would be no problem. I'm interested to hear more though.
Doug
Member
What about wrapping it in kraft paper ? It would the same as wrapping it in a brown paper bag sans any printing and is easily found where you get packing/shipping materials including Walmart.
I know the voices in my head aren't real but boy do they come up with some good ideas !
People discuss my art and pretend to understand as if it were necessary to understand, when it's simply necessary to love. - Claude Monet
Member
I save packing material (if it's in good shape) from stuff that I buy and is shipped to me. I like the thin sheets of foam and thin sheets of plain paper from a roll, but you can buy these at your local store too. The paper is the kind that is about the thickness of newspaper, not a paper bag. Whether founded or not, I don't use newspaper for fear that the print would transfer. The other reason I don't use newspaper is if someone has bought something from me, I want the packing to look as professional as the piece, and newspaper doesn't convey a professional image to me.
I wrap the piece with the foam sheets, paper, or even tissue paper, then bubble wrap around that. The purpose of the foam or paper is to keep the bubble wrap from touching the piece. If I'm shipping several pieces in the same box, each piece is wrapped this way so they don't touch each other. The box of is also lined on all sides with bubble wrap.
Member
Virgin newsprint is available in rolls from Uline. Old pillowcases are good,as even the colored ones are no problem after dozens of washings. Brown craft paper is OK but stay with the lighter 20# or less weights. Bubble wrap sometimes seems to outgas something that softens some lacquer finishes. With any packing method I would wait at least a week after finish application before packing lacquered items. longer for oiled items and those finished with varnish or poly.
Member
could you post more pictures of the 2nd bowl, please. both are very nice.
Member
I have been shipping stuff like that for 35 years and never a problem. I also use tissue paper. I buy bubble wrap by the roll. something tells me your friends piece had a problem with the finish and had a reaction with the plastic. 72 hours it can take for most finished to finally cure and dissipate all of it thinners etc. he may have had something else under the finish that was causing it not to dry properly( or even wood with to much moisture in it can do it). wrapping it to soon after finishing can also delay drying( like using varnish on the inside of a containment such as a dresser or whatever. it never seems to dry properly and gets that old rotten varnish smell).Originally Posted by John Keeton
just take that light coloured shirt that you are wearing in your picture and wipe some newsprint across it and see how much ink comes off. some papers are worse than others though. newsprint can be a little harsh on some pieces.
ron
some finishes have a shelf life such as shellac that may look like they are dry but never seem to totally dry. there are so many variables unless knowing the processes used.
Last edited by ron david; 02-04-2016 at 1:46 PM.
[OP]
Member
I can later this weekend or early next week. I put my last coat on today. I need to let I'd dry a little then get some better pics. It's mahagony and maple
Thanks for all the advice, I'll let y'all what I end up doing and if it works. Ha
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