Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 29

Thread: My first "Beads of Courage" box

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    E TN, near Knoxville
    Posts
    12,298

    My first "Beads of Courage" box



    My first try at a Beads of Courage box/lidded bowl. I wanted to carve the words on the outside so I glued up northern basswood between cherry from our farm, all face turned. I used the method Harvey Meyer showed on his videos of partially turning all three blanks before gluing them - saved a lot of deep hollowing!

    I laid out the letters on paper then transferred the to the wood with graphite paper. The chip-carved letters were difficult since the words extended into the end grain.

    It's over 6" tall without the lid. The walls are thick enough near the bottom to make it bottom-heavy and hard to tip over.

    The lip of the bowl is tapered significantly, as is the inside of the lid. This makes it very easy to replace the top since there is over 1/4" of play at the start, reduced to much less when seated. I think this also makes it look reasonably good as a bowl without the lid.

    I attached the knob with epoxy and a wood screw, hidden by the surprise BOC ceramic logo bead under the lid.

    Now to make some more! The Knoxville cub has committed to making 30. I never heard of this project before it was discussed in a club meeting a few months ago. What a great opportunity to use our abilities and resources!

    http://www.woodturner.org/default.as...2015Charitable

    JKJ

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Houston, TX
    Posts
    131
    Amazing work. It will be cherished by the recipient. I've been thinking about doing one of these for a while, and mine won't be to your level of craftsmanship, but that's ok. Hope your club exceeds the goal.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Fredericksburg, TX
    Posts
    2,576
    That is a really striking BOC piece with the carved lettering and white center piece. You and the recipient should both be proud. I think that I see a BOC button set under the lid also. Great piece.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Brentwood, TN
    Posts
    684
    Great looking piece, and excellent calligraphy on the basswood. You are generous and talented, sir.
    Maker of Fine Kindling, and small metal chips on the floor.
    Embellishments to the Stars - or wannabees.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Harvey, Michigan
    Posts
    20,804
    This is really nice! I like the natural colors, the overall form and your great looking carving! Definitely going to make some child very happy! Hope your club does well with the project! Would be nice if you could share a photo or two of your club's finished boxes - just to inspire some of those to get off the fence and get involved!
    Steve

    “You never know what you got til it's gone!”
    Please don’t let that happen!
    Become a financial Contributor today!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    E TN, near Knoxville
    Posts
    12,298
    share a photo or two of your club's finished boxes
    Good idea. I'll take a camera to the meeting tomorrow night.

    JKJ

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Central NJ
    Posts
    835
    That's gorgeous John! Beautiful form and contrast of wood. Your chip carving looks so good it's making me want to give it a try - like I need another vortex!

    Doug

  8. #8
    Lovely shape and finish and the letter carving is exquisite. Nicely done. I'm sure it will brighten up a child's life who very much deserves it.
    Laser Engraver: Epilog Legend 24TT 35-watt
    Lathe: Delta X5 46-746 - 3HP/220v, 16"x42"

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    E TN, near Knoxville
    Posts
    12,298
    Your chip carving looks so good it's making me want to give it a try
    Thanks! But, shhh, keep this a secret: chip-carving is really very easy compared to a lot of woodturning and other kinds of carving! The most difficult thing I found AND the most important - sharpen the knife properly. I bought several knives from different sources and NONE of them were anything near useful as received. Not well sharpened. Not well shaped. I suspect many people try chip carving and give it up after the first try with a new knife. I know I did, years ago.

    JKJ

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Ambridge, PA
    Posts
    968
    +1 to what everyone else said John but I think it's time to fess up and tell everyone you had the font work done on a CNC router!!!!! You have done a wonderful job and someone is going to be real happy to receive this piece.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    McDonough, GA (near Atlanta)
    Posts
    392
    Very nice! We are hoping to get 750 Beads of Courage boxes donated at the AAW symposium in Atlanta this summer.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Pendleton, KY
    Posts
    803
    I like the overall shape. The chip carving is very well done (although I don't really know what that is). I like how you made the lip-over lid.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    E TN, near Knoxville
    Posts
    12,298

    chips

    The chip carving is very well done (although I don't really know what that is)
    Ok, everything I know about chip carving in 20 words or less. Well, maybe a few more...

    Chip carving is apparently a very old craft where one usually triangular chip is removed at a time to form a decorative pattern. Some interesting history: http://www.thewoodcarverscabin.com/l...ipcarving.html

    Chips can also be 2-sided or 4-sided or more, straight cuts or curved. The artwork can be rigidly geometric or free-flowing. Carving letters involves removing both straight and curved chips, usually long chips.

    One attraction is the equipment needed is minimal! Nearly all carving can be done with a single knife and can be done almost anywhere. Well, maybe not on horseback.

    The knife is held to give a constant angle into the wood and the tip is pressed down to the proper depth as the knife is drawn backwards, then drawn upwards so the knife exits the wood. The wood is turned and a second then third cut is made and a pyramidal chip pops out. If you do it right. Repeat a few hundred times and you are done!

    Working on an ornament. Sure is hard to take a photo with both hands occupied!
    chip_ornament_carvingIMG_43.jpg

    I am basically a rank beginner at this but I do find it pretty easy. The hardest thing is to make the cut deep enough. The next hardest thing is to not make the cut too deep! (I.e., it has to be just right for best results.) Like anything it gets easier with practice.

    A chip-carving knife is available from several sources. The best design has the blade angled down from the line of the handle - this makes cutting and control easier and prevents severe hand fatigue and pain. One thing I found - I bought several different knives and NONE of them are useful out of the box. Every one had a cutting edge with a short bevel that was way too thick to use. It just pushed and pried and distorted the wood without making a clean cut, even when sharpened to a keen edge. Very frustrating. I suspect many people buy a knife and give up after trying to cut the first chip. I know I did - it was almost 10 years until I picked it up again and learned how to rework the knife. (It would have been nice if a knife came with at least a hint that this was needed.)

    Almost all chip carving I've seen has been on flat surfaces, very little on turned things. My goal has been to turn cool things and carve chips into them.

    I ran into an expert chip carver who gave me some tips. I've since sent him some woodturnings to carve. This guy, Bill Johnson, carves wonderful aquatic sculptures! Check out his web site if interested: http://www.carolinamountainreefs.com/index.html

    I first practiced on flat things then started on turnings. I learned a lot quickly! The first thing I learned was carving on flat sure is a lot easier.

    The very first turned thing I carved on was a goblet, then some ornaments. Round things are tricky to lay out so the pattern will come out even. I had to use MATH! I started with a rotary table from my milling machine but later got an indexing wheel for the lathe.

    chip_carved_goblet_c.jpg chip_carved_ornaments3.jpg

    Then I practiced some letters and made a sign for my shop. I copied the font from the back of a book on chip carving, traced onto the wood with graphite paper.

    chip_mess.jpg

    The goblet is cherry, walnut, and basswood, glued up with the grain running along the axis. I wanted the weight of the cherry to give a more substantial feel since basswood is extremely light weight. That is also the reason I used the cherry on the Beads of Courage box. Other fine-grained woods besides basswood can be chip carved but basswood is much easier than most! I have tried small chips on bradford pear and I think it's possible. Buckeye is supposed to be good.

    Chip carving is best done in pure side grain. End grain is tricky. A close look at my BOC box/bowl will show some letters are not so cleanly cut since face turning leaves a lot of end grain on the side of the bowl. Ack.

    Basswood, BTW, is easy to turn but can have some tearout if tools are not sharp. I was afraid that the transitions between the basswood and harder woods would give me trouble but they didn't, possibly because I use cabinet scrapers for smoothing instead of coarse sandpaper. I think I started with 400 grit or 600 on these things.

    Just for fun, here are my practice boards. I did most of these during a vacation at the beach this fall. The first little picture shows the knives I use.

    practice_comp.jpg

    There, an introduction to chip carving! Probably WAY more than you wanted to know. Once I get started...

    JKJ

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Pendleton, KY
    Posts
    803
    Very well done. Even your practice boards are amazing. Thanks for the explanation and the inspiration.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Ambridge, PA
    Posts
    968
    Thanks for posting this John. Just way over the top nice work.



    Quote Originally Posted by John K Jordan View Post
    Ok, everything I know about chip carving in 20 words or less. Well, maybe a few more...

    Chip carving is apparently a very old craft where one usually triangular chip is removed at a time to form a decorative pattern. Some interesting history: http://www.thewoodcarverscabin.com/l...ipcarving.html

    Chips can also be 2-sided or 4-sided or more, straight cuts or curved. The artwork can be rigidly geometric or free-flowing. Carving letters involves removing both straight and curved chips, usually long chips.

    One attraction is the equipment needed is minimal! Nearly all carving can be done with a single knife and can be done almost anywhere. Well, maybe not on horseback.

    The knife is held to give a constant angle into the wood and the tip is pressed down to the proper depth as the knife is drawn backwards, then drawn upwards so the knife exits the wood. The wood is turned and a second then third cut is made and a pyramidal chip pops out. If you do it right. Repeat a few hundred times and you are done!

    Working on an ornament. Sure is hard to take a photo with both hands occupied!
    chip_ornament_carvingIMG_43.jpg

    I am basically a rank beginner at this but I do find it pretty easy. The hardest thing is to make the cut deep enough. The next hardest thing is to not make the cut too deep! (I.e., it has to be just right for best results.) Like anything it gets easier with practice.

    A chip-carving knife is available from several sources. The best design has the blade angled down from the line of the handle - this makes cutting and control easier and prevents severe hand fatigue and pain. One thing I found - I bought several different knives and NONE of them are useful out of the box. Every one had a cutting edge with a short bevel that was way too thick to use. It just pushed and pried and distorted the wood without making a clean cut, even when sharpened to a keen edge. Very frustrating. I suspect many people buy a knife and give up after trying to cut the first chip. I know I did - it was almost 10 years until I picked it up again and learned how to rework the knife. (It would have been nice if a knife came with at least a hint that this was needed.)

    Almost all chip carving I've seen has been on flat surfaces, very little on turned things. My goal has been to turn cool things and carve chips into them.

    I ran into an expert chip carver who gave me some tips. I've since sent him some woodturnings to carve. This guy, Bill Johnson, carves wonderful aquatic sculptures! Check out his web site if interested: http://www.carolinamountainreefs.com/index.html

    I first practiced on flat things then started on turnings. I learned a lot quickly! The first thing I learned was carving on flat sure is a lot easier.

    The very first turned thing I carved on was a goblet, then some ornaments. Round things are tricky to lay out so the pattern will come out even. I had to use MATH! I started with a rotary table from my milling machine but later got an indexing wheel for the lathe.

    chip_carved_goblet_c.jpg chip_carved_ornaments3.jpg

    Then I practiced some letters and made a sign for my shop. I copied the font from the back of a book on chip carving, traced onto the wood with graphite paper.

    chip_mess.jpg

    The goblet is cherry, walnut, and basswood, glued up with the grain running along the axis. I wanted the weight of the cherry to give a more substantial feel since basswood is extremely light weight. That is also the reason I used the cherry on the Beads of Courage box. Other fine-grained woods besides basswood can be chip carved but basswood is much easier than most! I have tried small chips on bradford pear and I think it's possible. Buckeye is supposed to be good.

    Chip carving is best done in pure side grain. End grain is tricky. A close look at my BOC box/bowl will show some letters are not so cleanly cut since face turning leaves a lot of end grain on the side of the bowl. Ack.

    Basswood, BTW, is easy to turn but can have some tearout if tools are not sharp. I was afraid that the transitions between the basswood and harder woods would give me trouble but they didn't, possibly because I use cabinet scrapers for smoothing instead of coarse sandpaper. I think I started with 400 grit or 600 on these things.

    Just for fun, here are my practice boards. I did most of these during a vacation at the beach this fall. The first little picture shows the knives I use.

    practice_comp.jpg

    There, an introduction to chip carving! Probably WAY more than you wanted to know. Once I get started...

    JKJ

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •