Curly Maple and Walnut. Still learning
Post_3114_LidCl.jpgPost_3115_LidO.jpg
Thanks for looking
Curly Maple and Walnut. Still learning
Post_3114_LidCl.jpgPost_3115_LidO.jpg
Thanks for looking
Just trying to learn
What a beautiful gift. She'll treasure it.
Nice, epoxy finish? What holds the lid open or does it just open all the way?
Very good looking. I like the design and the finish looks very durable.
Mike Null
St. Louis Laser, Inc.
Trotec Speedy 300, 80 watt
Gravograph IS400
Woodworking shop CLTT and Laser Sublimation
Dye Sublimation
CorelDraw X5, X7
Nice work Ray, love the wood & finish.
What did you use for the music movement? I've made the mistake in the past in getting a "cheap" 18-note movement, not wanting to pay the high cost of a good quality piece and paid the price for doing so. It got to the point where the prices for quality pieces were high enough to prevent me from building any more music boxes.
Thoughts entering one's mind need not exit one's mouth!
As I age my memory fades .... and that's a load off my mind!
"We Live In The Land Of The Free, Only Because Of The Brave"
“The problems we face today are there because the people who work for a living are outnumbered by those who vote for a living."
"Socialism is a philosophy of failure, the creed of ignorance, and the gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery." Winston Churchill
Thanks for the tip. I will look there again.
No PHD, but I have a DD 214
Ray (or anyone with an opinion), what is the thickness and length of the keys? I have a hard time settling on a good proportionate size for them and these look good.
I go 1/8" thick for small boxes and frames, only because that's the thickness of the blade kerf. For length I usually go about 2/3 of the thickness of the corner, whatever that ends up being in length. These two small boxes were made with those proportions, but I certainly don't measure anything.
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Thanks Ray. I use router to cut slots for the keys so have options on the width.