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Thread: Sourcing 6" hose fittings (machine connections)

  1. #1

    Question Sourcing 6" hose fittings (machine connections)

    Building my first full shop dust collection system and taking Bill Pentz advice about taking the 6" runs all the way to the machine as much as possible. When I looked for a 6" bell mouth to enlarge the opening on my cabinet saw the only one I found was a Nordfab and I about choked on the price. As I started thinking about all the other machines, I wasn't finding much in the way of 6" hose fittings. One thing I did find was a 6" x 4" x 4" plastic wye that I plan to use with my drum sander but the 6" end is female so I have a find a coupling to connect it to a flex hose.

    Other machines I plan to connect with 6" flex hose

    Chop saw (tent)
    Lathe
    15" Planer
    12" Joiner
    Router table
    37" drum sander
    Cabinet saw

    I would just appreciate any sources and or DIY ideas to help me on my way.

    Thanks,

    David

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    65,902
    You may very well need to make your own since 6" machine fittings are not in any way common. You can use plastic and easily weld it together with solvent or fabricate with metal and wood.

    Yes, the Nordfab products are pricy, but they are also very high quality.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Orlando, FL
    Posts
    280
    David,

    Here are a few ideas. http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...se-6-quot-pipe

    I used 6" HVAC fittings purchased at a local HD. Did some cutting and soldering on some of them to get what I needed. The 6" flex hose was purchased from Wynn. I use a portable DC unit and hook up to one machine at a time. All of my fittings are designed to connect and disconnect easily. If it was a permanent setup, some of the fittings could possibly be simplified.
    Last edited by James Gunning; 02-29-2016 at 10:11 AM.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    SE Kansas City Metro, MO
    Posts
    661
    For connection to machines like the cabinet saw, a simple 6" duct flange works great. This is an example, but you should be able to find them at your local big box or HVAC supplier (I got mine at Lowe's) http://www.amazon.com/Ideal-Air-7364.../dp/B0058IUUDG - they usually have an adhesive foam backing and make a tight seal. Getting 6" flex hose to attach is a bit of a trick, but a heat gun and some patience is all it takes.

  5. #5
    Agree with the other guys that suggested the HVAC fittings. I've used them extensively in the refit to 6" on my machines. Super cheap and easily sourced. There are so many different configurations of register boots and such that you can usually find something that will adapt to your application. I got mine at a local HVAC supplier but the big boxes have them as well.
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Arlington, VA
    Posts
    1,850
    I used a lot of these: http://www.clearvuecyclones.com/supp...st-gate-6.html

    If you remove the six screws from one of the CV 6" blast gates and drill out the holes, you can screw/bolt them onto wood or metal adapters you make (well, you do need a 6"+ hole cut in it). I took the plate that had the 4" gate off my jointer, for example, and replaced it with a thin piece of plywood the same size with a hole cut in it and a CV gate mounted on it. Works like a charm in mating up to my 6" PVC S&D ducting. I also used them to create floor sweeps. And, bonus, you now get a blast gate at each machine.

  7. #7
    Really nice work, very good inspiration for me to work from.

    David

  8. #8
    My 15" planer works fine with a 4" dust outlet, not worth changing it. Otherwise, if you need a flange, just cut a square of plywood, cut a 6" hole in it, and put the end of your metal pipe in the hole, caulk between metal and ply, and screw the metal to the plywood. Works for me.

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Andrew View Post
    My 15" planer works fine with a 4" dust outlet, not worth changing it. Otherwise, if you need a flange, just cut a square of plywood, cut a 6" hole in it, and put the end of your metal pipe in the hole, caulk between metal and ply, and screw the metal to the plywood. Works for me.
    Yes thank Jim, I would agree under normal circumstances 4" would carry planer shavings adequately for a machine this size. I'm trying to maximize my system's overall airflow because the main trunk of the duct system is somewhat oversize and I am hoping that when the airspeed drops in this (albeit horizontal) portion of the system that it will not result in the heavier particles falling out of the airflow to collect in the duct.

    It's a bit of an experiment at this point, I purchased a used nordfab system out of a shop, the main duct is 9" but the machine drops are all 6". My thought is that I should be able to move planer chips well enough through the 6" runs but will need to see how things work in the main duct. So you see how restricting to only 4" of airflow supply would become a problem at this point in the system.

    I don't think there's any way that I can avoid stepping up the HP side of my dust collection system to make this all work properly but for now I'm going to design toward the large volume air flow concept that Bill Pentz recommends. I think in the end I'll be happier with a system that "breaths well", so to speak.

    In any case, I see this as an opportunity to learn about the physics of air flow.

    David

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