Marking gage question

[Tony Zaffuto]

Afternoon all!

What are the general preferences for style of marking gage? I have a variety, new and old, and have been migrating from just using a marking knife to including a gage.

I have found that the gage use is not as simple as it looks! In use, I have been pushing away to mark, and have taken the pin out and replaced with a 1/8" wide one sided marking knife to faciliate the mark.

Any of you use the Tite Mark or the Veritas copy, or even the new all brass Veritas 3 in 1 knife and what are your opinions. Quite frankly, learning to accurately use the marking gage seems to be one of the more difficult tasks!

[Dan Moening]

I inherited a marking gauge that has 2 pins on one side for mortises, and a single pin on the other for marking.

IME it's too cumbersome for my use. I feel I'm always wrestling with it to get it to work right. And I could never seem to register that big block against a surface evenly.

Last year I asked for {and received } the adjustable Veritas wheel marking guage. It's enlightening. The way it fits in my hand is delightful to use, the wheel cutter does away with any grain issues, and the smallish brass "turret" immediately finds "flush" with stock. I don't use the adjustability feature as much as I thought, but it is handy to have; even if I have to refer to the instructions to remember which ring to set first.

I like it alot; a great tool at a great price.

In my limited handtool experience, using a gauge of any kind requires learning the skill...slow even gentle marks to start, then repeat to deepen the mark.

[Mike Wenzloff]

Hi Tony, I too have a variety and end up setting them differently for aspects of the same job. I have the Titemark III, a General, an old Starrett, a couple pin-types and even some panel marking gauges,

Overall, I think the round (wheel) type of the General, Starrett and Titemark are the easiest to keep from having the grain pull them off course. These I pull or push. Doesn't matter.

The pin type I use are easy once one learns to turn the gauge until the beam is nearly touching the surface and the pin barely into the wood. These type are easier for me to pull. I also sharpen the pin only on the inside portion. Its bevel is actually a tad round or curved. I find this pulls the fence into the wood.

This also goes for my panel gauges, though I also attach a pencil to them at times.

Mike

[Alan Turner]

My go-to marking guage, in use daily, is a patternmaker's guage, and is still sold by Freeman's of Toledo. It has a brass head, and has a 4 sided metal "cutter" screwed onto the end of the hexagonal beam, into a tapped hole. Each of the 4 sides of the pin are sharpenable. It is also reversible, so that it will track on a concave or convex surface. It is a very tidy tool. Its best feature is a spring steel stay that holds the beam tight to the head, even when the tightening screw is loosened. This way one can accurately set the length of the beam, without any play whatsoever. I got mine from a patternshop a number of years ago, but have never seen another, except one I ordered from Freeman's which was defective, and I returned it but did not get another. This posting reminds me I need to tend to that.

[Dennis McDonaugh]

I have a few (okay a lot) of old stanley marking gauges and all have the same problem--The pin wants to follow the grain. I usually use my shop fox wheel marking gauge.

[Derek Cohen]

Hi Tony

I have a few different types of marking gauges (gages?) as some work better across the grain and other work better with the grain.

The two favourites of mine for working across the grain (such as when making dovetials or tenons) are either the Veritas wheel gauge or a Eastern-type knife gauge, which can be seen below. All of these are sold by LV.

I also have a traditional adjustable twin pin mortice gauge (by Crown), but really have not enjoyed using this much. With any pin gauge it is important to shape the pin to a knife edge. Pins are better for down grain usage. However, I do have a double knife gauge (similar to the single knife gauge), and this cuts a clean and stable line with the grain.

A better pin gauge - in fact a really great one - is the Stanley #65 (bottom pictures). Mike commented how it is easier to use the pin type at an angle. Well the #65 automatically does this for you. Find one on eBay.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Mark Singer]

On a pin style gauge, it is better to file the pin flat like a knife and sharp. The wheel style gauges track well with a pulling motion. The little brass 3 in 1 gauge LV sells is handy and an excellent cutting gauge.

[Tony Zaffuto]

To all, Thanks!

Derek, I particularly liked the Stanley 65 suggestion, however, I'm sort of like you, in that I like building my own toys! I have a gage I bought several years ago--probably a Crown, that I replaced the pin with a Japanese 1/8" marking knife. Seems to work better than all others. The problem remains that the part of the gage with the thumb screw is not very user friendly!

I have been toying with the idea of some changes, and the Stanley 65 style seems to be just the ticket!

Tony Z.

[Charles Stanford]

My go-to marking guage, in use daily, is a patternmaker's guage, and is still sold by Freeman's of Toledo.

Any contact information on this firm? TIA

[Alan Turner]

Charles,
Here you go:
http://www.freemansupply.com/PanelMarkingGages.htm

[Charles Stanford]

Thanks for the link.