Originally Posted by
Tyler Keniston
So perhaps this isn't even true, but I get the sense that when we talk about taming tear out with hand planes, we are generally referring to the last finishing step, i.e. smoothing. This is where focus on super tight plane set-up and fine shavings seems to be.
But are not the previous planing steps (not across grain of course) as likely to cause tear out, and even more so if we're not taking those whispery fine shavings we often take with smoothers?
I ask because I feel like I treat every planing operation (e.g. even when jointing) as if I'm smoothing; taking fine shavings as to avoid tear out. I actually don't own a smoother, though I'm looking to change that.
If the grain is perfect, perhaps its a moot point. And if its horrendous, it'll probably be tough no matter what and again moot. I'm thinking here about the mid range hardwood with some mild reversing grain and the like. Isn't every operation other than roughing across the grain going to be treated the same? If we can't take a thick shaving, we can't. It we can, we can. It seems like every operation would need to be treated with the same slew of anti tear out measures we use for smoothing.
So what I'm wondering is: what differentiates the operations at all? I think I want to buy a smoother, but why? I already feel like I am smoothing when I use my #7. Am I using the 7 wrong?
It probably has a bit to do with tradition and a bit to do with form and function.
When all you had to work with was hand planes you kept a couple to the side that were only for finishing up the work so they were in good shape and stayed nice and sharp. Back then you tended to do the heavy work with bigger planes and the blades would take a beating. So when it came to tidying up a piece, instead of pulling the blade and resharpening, you simply reached for the smoother that was nice and sharp and ready to go.
Smoothers, by comparison, are much more agile than a 7 or 6 and take much less effort to push. That also lends itself to the task as they're much easier to take skew cuts when having to adjust for planning a patch of difficult gain... They can also follow the subtle contours of a board better so taking really fine finishing cuts is better with them.
As you also said. If the planing is adequate right off the jointer plane why do anymore with any other plane. Unless you find it very therapeutic to make lots of shavings why waste the time and effort.
Last edited by Brian Ashton; 03-12-2016 at 12:08 AM.
Sent from the bathtub on my Samsung Galaxy(C)S5 with waterproof Lifeproof Case(C), and spell check turned off!