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Thread: Epoxy + Coffee Grounds

  1. #1
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    Epoxy + Coffee Grounds

    I have a question for the folks who use coffee grounds as a filler in epoxy when fixing cracks in bowls. Do you use fresh coffee, right out of the can, or leftovers after brewing? Is any particular grind better than another? Am I overthinking this?

    I have some oak bowls with cracks to fill and would like to try this technique.

    Thanks,
    Dave

  2. #2
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    Dave,
    I always use Instant coffee crystals (like Folgers) because they are dry and seem to blend into the epoxy well. here is an article that shows using regular grind coffee also. http://www.docgreenwoodturner.com/coffee.html
    Last edited by Ken Glass; 03-19-2016 at 8:31 AM.
    Regards, Ken

    Become a Contributor at SMC and keep this great source of Knowledge and help from becoming only a memory.

  3. #3
    I recycle used grounds - just stir them occasionally to speed drying and to keep them from molding until they're completely dry. You might be overthinking it.

  4. #4
    I have used instant, but sometimes one gets some bleed from them. I prefer used grounds - whatever comes out of the pot. Spread on a newspaper to dry overnight or whatever it takes. I suppose one could nuke them, as well. I use Titebond, for what that may be worth to you. It seems to work better for me than epoxy and much easier to mess with.

  5. #5
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    K-Cups

    Thanks for the input everyone. I discovered that the K-cup single serving coffee containers hold a surprising amount of coffee grounds. Looks like Donut Shop medium roast will be the first grounds I try.
    kcup.jpg

  6. #6
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    If the inclusion you're filling is particularly large, you might consider layering it, adding a bit of sawdust in the first pass to lighten the color. This makes the
    patch look more natural.

    I apply it with two-part five minute epoxy.

    Russell Neyman
    .


    Writer - Woodworker - Historian
    Instructor: The Woodturning Experience
    Puget Sound, Washington State


    "Outside of a dog, there's nothing better than a good book; inside of a dog it's too dark to read."

  7. #7
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    I use used grounds. A few times when needing a darker color I "burnt" the grounds in a frying pan. I have used CA and epoxy. For small holes CA is easier. Often I put a dap of CA in the defect, push the grounds into the hole, and dribble thin CA on top. This might take more than one layer of grounds.
    Last edited by Paul Williams; 03-19-2016 at 10:44 AM.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Bunge View Post
    Thanks for the input everyone. I discovered that the K-cup single serving coffee containers hold a surprising amount of coffee grounds. Looks like Donut Shop medium roast will be the first grounds I try.
    kcup.jpg
    That makes me want to cast an entire blank and turn a coffee plate for my donuts!

    JKJ

  9. #9
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    Used K cups work for me too. check different blends from light (blonde) to French Roast, you might be able to get better matches to the color.

    FYI there was a prior thread on this that got rather humorous.
    Retired - when every day is Saturday (unless it's Sunday).

  10. #10
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    I never use epoxy with coffee ground, as you aren’t able to add a lot of material to epoxy and still have it work, you might as well color the Epoxy, as you will not get the same look as what you do get with 100% coffee ground, flooding it with CA and it does look like bark or wood.

    Just what works and looks best IMO.
    Have fun and take care

  11. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Bunge View Post
    Thanks for the input everyone. I discovered that the K-cup single serving coffee containers hold a surprising amount of coffee grounds. Looks like Donut Shop medium roast will be the first grounds I try.
    kcup.jpg
    That's exactly what I use. I always keep a couple of used K cups around the shop. They work great!

  12. #12
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    I use Folgers crystals. I still have a jar my wife bought 30+ years ago and I refused to drink it. I mix it with the epoxy rosin and then add the hardner. I haven't had the bleeding problems John experienced.
    Ken

    So much to learn, so little time.....

  13. #13
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    This conversation has made me thirsty. I'm going to enjoy a cup of coffee.
    faust

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Russell Neyman View Post
    If the inclusion you're filling is particularly large, you might consider layering it, adding a bit of sawdust in the first pass to lighten the color. This makes the patch look more natural.
    I'm not a big fan of the mono color filler of black or any color. A couple of times I filled a wide void with thin slices of bark and fine sawdust then soaked with CA glue. This can look like a natural bark inclusion.

    JKJ

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by John K Jordan View Post
    I'm not a big fan of the mono color filler of black or any color. A couple of times I filled a wide void with thin slices of bark and fine sawdust then soaked with CA glue. This can look like a natural bark inclusion.

    JKJ
    Heck, if you want to take this discussion (which is really about filling voids) add a tree branch or two to create the illusion of a knot with pith. I do that often with blanks that otherwise would be nearly worthless.

    Russell Neyman
    .


    Writer - Woodworker - Historian
    Instructor: The Woodturning Experience
    Puget Sound, Washington State


    "Outside of a dog, there's nothing better than a good book; inside of a dog it's too dark to read."

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