I think what you want is an actual miter jack.
Mmm... Pretty sure what I want is what's in that picture... unless a miter jack can handle the end of a long piece of baseboard trim?
I have the style in Darrell's post. Built it earlier this year based on a plan in one of the magazines. After a lot of tries - including just this past weekend - I haven't been able to get good, consistent 45* miters. Could be poor construction. Could be poor technique. But the plane just isnt stable in the "groove" and so the miter isnt right. I went back to my old donkey's ear. But that obviously wont help with long baseboard trim.
I look forward to learning from the responses to your question.
Fred
[Aside: Monte, if you dont already know about coping baseboards, you might look it up. That's another way to get nice looking corners.]
Yep... all too familiar with coping by now. Which is not the same as being *good* at it or enjoying it, though it got less miserable with a better quality saw & blades.
I thought I posted a picture, have to try to find a good one. But, yes a miter jack can be used on any length piece of wood.
As much as I would like (very much) to have one of those... last I checked, a) can't buy one and b) they're a fairly involved project to do *right*. You did see where I said I needed something in the IMMEDIATE future...?
After a lot of bold talk in the original parts of this thread, I did get around to building the miter shooting board I talked about. It was a simple construction intended as a "proof of concept" which made it rather tedious to tune up to be accurate. I did get there. When I get to a more robust shop tool, I'll work in solid hardwood, probably hard maple. For as long as it holds up, this one is doing pretty well. It's accurate and easy to use and there's no long work piece waving about in the sky. It does want a very sharp blade and a thin shaving, like any shooting board.
The dimensions are sized to fit a 5 1/2 plane for size and mass. If you try one, keep in mind that the dimensions must be sized to the width of a specific plane or you'll have a bit of bother. I wanted the size since I work a good bit in 8/4 stock, and a narrower plane at 45* won't do well. Additionally, I wish now, with the benefit of a bit of experience, that I had made the gap where the edge of the plane rides a bit larger to handle a bit more debris, although the toe of the plane does a decent job of pushing a lot out the end of the groove. For long stock, I use a second board, a bench hook with the same thickness as the bed of the shooting board to hold long stock flat.
Now that it's fettled, it works well. I've tried a variety of work holding variations as well as hand held use. For parts too large for "hand holding" I generally use a spacer and wedges, tapping the far end of the work as it needs to be moved into the blade. Works okay.
IMG_3431.jpgIMG_3432.jpgIMG_3433.jpgIMG_3434.jpg
Click 'em to big 'em.
Good luck and post pics if you build one.
Jim
Fair winds and following seas,
Jim Waldron
Thanks Jim, that looks great.
Mike
From the workshop under the staircase, Clinton Township, MI
Semper Audere!
A thought for Monte's situation is a shooting guide can be made larger or smaller for a specific task.
A miniature shooting guide could be made to work with a block plane and long thin stock like baseboard strips.
jtk
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)