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Thread: Target EM 1000 Sealer Questions

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
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    Target EM 1000 Sealer Questions

    In the past, I have used quite an amount of Target's WB Amber Shellac as a sealer, then either a Target WB Lacquer or WB Poly topcoat over bare hardwoods without any issues. I used a HVLP setup to spray, raised the grain with a moist wipe down and re sanded with 220# before applying anything. Sometimes I would hit the wood with a thinned "blotch" preventer and then some color with Transtint before the amber shellac and top coating of choice. I have not used their products in a few years now and have bought some of their EM 1000 sealer and their 9000 poly to apply over bare pecan. I have not yet decided whether or not to add some Honey Amber to the sealer to warm the finish up and have a couple of questions.

    1) If I want to add some Transtint Honey Amber to the EM 1000, how many drops of Transtint do I need to add to the sealer? I would mix the Transtint into some water to then add the mixture into the volume of sealer expected to spray (say a pint), but don't know how much Transtint is required to just warm up the finish to a conventional lacquer shade.

    2) Will I benefit by adding a second coat of sealer or will one suffice? I am leaning towards two coats, but will eliminate it if experience shows that a second coat will weaken the ensuing topcoats.

    3) Just to confirm, Target finishes (both the sealer and poly) still have 100% burn-in capability, correct? In the past, I tended to put on four coats of topcoat after the sealer and then only lightly scuff sand to get rid of nibs, dust mites or overspray when applying the topcoats. I never sanded between any coats of either sealer, topcoat or going from sealer to topcoat. After a week or more, I would rub out the final topcoat some as required.

    I did look into Target's forum, but the new forum did not help and I have not yet gotten into their archived forum. I'd appreciate any advise anyone sends my way.
    David

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2008
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    For question 1 the answer is Trial & Error. Depending on how much of the EM1000 you mix and what you consider "warm" enough.
    As you know the EM1000 is a water clear sealer that can also be used as a vehicle to shade or tone, and when you mix the Transtint into it, that will be the color you will be working with. I would suggest that you go to the light side and use multiple coats to use as a toner to sneak up on the warmth you are looking for. Test boards!

    As far as the burn in question. You can check with Target, but I believe the coats should be sprayed inside of 24 hours where sanding between coats is not required.

  3. #3
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    Thanks. I am familiar with Trial & Error and using the sealer as a toner, was hoping for a starting point for the T&E based on hands-on experience. The older Target products had the same burn-in specs, but the limited info I had on the newer (to me anyway) sealer kept describing some sanding and it is unclear to me if that sanding was being done to achieve bonding or was simply to remove fuzz. I have the test boards laid out.
    David

  4. #4
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    I could be wrong, but I think only the EM6x00 products have the "burn in" characteristic...
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  5. #5
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    Thanks. I will download the specs/instructions on the 9000 series poly I ordered for my "might possibly get wet furniture" application I need it for. I have lots of good experience with their older shellac and wb laquer, and less experience with their poly, but had 100% burn-in on everything in the past. Just have not used it for the last 4 years or so and the label looks different. I will confirm before I get started.
    David

  6. #6
    Join Date
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    This is right off the Target TDS sheet.

    EM9000sc that can be applied. Allow each coat to dry for a
    minimum of 45 minutes before recoating. Sanding between
    each coat is not necessary unless contamination has effected
    the film formation, or if the last coat has dried for more
    then 24 hours. Sand with 600-grit sandpaper to remove surface
    imperfections, runs, sags and contamination. Remove
    sanding dust as specified and apply final coat as required.

  7. #7
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    Conrad, pretty much my recollection of their older products. I have had good luck with their stuff in the past, just need to figure out how much toner to add to the sealer to overcome the pale clarity of wb finishes on this particular project.
    David

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