[OP]
Contributor
The MDF insert I made for my Powermatic 66 has given up the ghost. What's the best zero-clearance insert out there for cheap?
I was going to make another MDF job, but I would have to go get MDF, and if I'm going to actually have to PAY, I might as well get something good.
Cry "Havoc," and let slip the dogs of bench.
I was socially distant before it was cool.
A little authority corrupts a lot.
[OP]
Contributor
I should add that while the MDF was cheap and easy to work, it did not stay flat or stand up to abuse, so I'm not excited about using it again. I think aluminum would be ideal, but I ain't springing for aluminum sheet.
Cry "Havoc," and let slip the dogs of bench.
I was socially distant before it was cool.
A little authority corrupts a lot.
Member
image.gifMake this. Instead of the rabbet use a 45 degree bevel.
Moderator
I don't know what "cheap" means, but I got some of these for my PM66 and I like them:
http://www.amazon.com/Leecraft-PM-1-.../dp/B0000223VA
[OP]
Contributor
Maybe that's the best answer (Leecraft). I am thinking it would be nice to make something from aluminum with a piece in the middle I could replace, but it would be kind of a project.
Cry "Havoc," and let slip the dogs of bench.
I was socially distant before it was cool.
A little authority corrupts a lot.
Member
you guys so over-engineer everything. don't need to buy an insert online - it just proves your inability to improvise. Just get mdf or 1/2" melamine and put four screws into the bottom and adjust the screws until the throat plate is flush. So easy to make a few of them then raise the blade to cut through. The 1/2" screws allow micro adjustment to flush them with the table. I made one fifteen years ago, and am still using it. made minor adjustments after a few years. The one I made for my dado insert is still good too - its the screws that adjust for flush when the plate warps. Real easy.
sorry if I offended anyone - its easy to overlook the obvious. Just take your existing throat plate, and flush trim a new plate in 1/2" from it as the template. run screws into the bottom where the flats contact. then adjust the screws to flush.
IMG_20160331_185929.jpg
john.blazy_dichrolam_llc
Delta Unisaw, Rabbit QX-80-1290 80W Laser, 5 x 12 ft laminating ovens, Powermax 22/44, Accuspray guns, Covington diamond lap and the usual assortment of cool toys / tools.
I use 1/2" BB ply and make them by the half dozen or so. The setup for one takes no longer than the setup for more.
"A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".
– Samuel Butler
[OP]
Contributor
That would be more interesting if it didn't reveal that you didn't read the thread.Originally Posted by John Blazy
Same here.sorry if I offended anyone
Cry "Havoc," and let slip the dogs of bench.
I was socially distant before it was cool.
A little authority corrupts a lot.
Member
its not that easy. To add screws on a 66 you have to rout a lip on a 1/2" blank, and yes you are offensive.
steve,
I understand not wanting to buy a whole sheet of anything to make a few inserts. I use Baltic birch and I don't care for the way sawdust erodes it away. I don't own one but I'd go with a melamine insert to stop that. There is a guy on eBay who sells machined aluminum inserts for uni's fairly reasonably. I've often thought of emailing him to see if he'd do 66 inserts. After my stock of bb inserts wear away I'll be looking for something new.
Member
I have some of those for different blades and used them for years. Still look like new.
[OP]
Contributor
I looked into the aluminum issue today. I think it's a neat idea. The original aluminum insert on my saw has been used like crazy, and it's still in great shape (too bad it's not zero clearance). You can find 3/8" plate in 4" width on Ebay in drops small enough to make inserts without spending your life savings. I just don't want to fool with it right now.
I have machine tools, so it's not an intimidating job, but I think anyone who has a table saw and a router table could make an aluminum insert. Working 3/8" plate is not bad.
I am thinking I will eventually fix myself up with something that has a center strip I can replace, as an earlier poster suggested.
That being said I look forward to the phenolic insert I ordered, just to get it over with.
Cry "Havoc," and let slip the dogs of bench.
I was socially distant before it was cool.
A little authority corrupts a lot.
Moderator
I have posted pictures and drawings for my over engineeredRT Unisaw aluminum throat plate with slip in replaceable wooden inserts. I have been using it for 15 years and have never needed another. If you have the machine tools and wherewithal to make one, I say just do it.
"It's paradoxical that the idea of living a long life appeals to everyone, but the idea of getting old doesn't appeal to anyone."
Andy Rooney
Contributor
Orange BORG sells 2 X 4 pieces of 1/2" MDF. Even cheaper is damaged full sheet from same source, Corian is another option.
Member
Made some from Corian scrap and love them. Works easy, last a long time. Also made some from old Formica over plywood countertop and they have held up well. Had to thin it down to 1/2 inch thick but not a big deal.
Last edited by Dick Brown; 03-31-2016 at 11:29 PM.
Contributor
Mine look just like Glenn's. I made a dozen of them in about an hour from leftover scrap a few years ago and still have 1-2 left. Plenty of scrap around to make more if/when the time comes. One with an insert would have to be pretty convenient to swap inserts on to make it easier to use.
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