end-grain coasters...

[John Grace]

Does anyone have experience with turning end-grain coasters for glasses? A friend has asked if I could make her several but I would think the wood would be unstable and simply crack with the pith left in. I've never done anything like this and aside from using something super 'oily' and exotic (i.e. expensive) like Cocobolo I'm not sure what else to try. Any thoughts would be appreciated...THANKS, John

[William Bachtel]

You should cut the size branches you want approx 3 to 4 inches in dia, cut them in the winter when the sap in down and out of the tree. Leave them 2 to 3 ft long, seal the ends with anchor seal or wax, take them indoors and let dry at least one year, cut on the bandsaw and finish. The bark should stay on, if you don't want the bark on cut in the summer. As always be SAFE

[Grant Wilkinson]

If the log is big enough in diameter, you can do end grain coasters without the pith in them. For example, a 10" diameter log split twice to remove the pith will still yield two long pieces about 4" each. You can cut slices from them, and turn them in to coasters. I've made end grain bud vases this way.

[Dick Strauss]

End grain coasters from most woods turned to 1/4" thickness will tend to crack with or without the pith. Elm might work well since it is very hard to split. Any wood that is hard to split for firewood would be a good option. IMO side grain would be better for most woods and would not tend to wick up the moisture from the glass into the endgrain.

[thomas prusak]

One method is to cut them and soak them in an oil based finish for a period of time. I know of a company who does this for one of their products but I do not know the specifics. A web search may be helpful.

[Bob Coates]

If you can find it, Catalpa can be cut with branches the size you want and it won't split. Non believer, a landscaper cut several 3/8 sections from 4" branch, sanded them up and they never cracked.

[CHARLES D Richards]

I finished sanding 54 coasters that I cut out about 60 days ago. The river birch had been cut about 60 days and was in my shop. It was a very small tree (the size of the coasters) so I decided to cut a few pieces into coasters by using the bandsaw. I cut them and just put 25 or so in a paper grocery bag and put it on the shelf. Today I looked at them, not they were dry and decided to sand them on the belt sander. I had a little bonus- all but 3 to 4 had spalted in the bag. The picture shows them with one coat of Danish oil. More finish to follow later.

There was no cracking or warping found on any of the rounds even with them being loose in the bag for 2 months.

[Cliff Hill]

Both Mulberry and Eastern Red Cedar branches are also good for end grain coasters. I have made end grain dished from both.
Cliff

[Steve Peterson]

I finished sanding 54 coasters that I cut out about 60 days ago. The river birch had been cut about 60 days and was in my shop. It was a very small tree (the size of the coasters) so I decided to cut a few pieces into coasters by using the bandsaw. I cut them and just put 25 or so in a paper grocery bag and put it on the shelf. Today I looked at them, not they were dry and decided to sand them on the belt sander. I had a little bonus- all but 3 to 4 had spalted in the bag. The picture shows them with one coat of Danish oil. More finish to follow later.

There was no cracking or warping found on any of the rounds even with them being loose in the bag for 2 months.

Wow, those are some amazing looking coasters. It is amazing that none of them have cracked. Seems to confirm that cutting the tree in winter is a good idea, as William mentioned.

I think that they would work better as coasters if left natural. This would allow them to soak up the moisture from the glass, which is the primary purpose of using a coaster.

btw: welcome to the creek.

Steve

[robert baccus]

Also remember Catalpa is a very, very soft wood. Hard woods usually crack much faster.

[CHARLES D Richards]

Good idea on leaving them natural, Steve. Actually, I did consider that but they were so bland (greyish white) that you couldn't even see the spalting. The cell phone pic I posted was not long after I applied the oil. Today, they look more muted in color but you can still see the figure in the wood. I an trying a few in the house to see how they work. It was fun and easy though, just a trial since I had not made any before

cheers,
Dave

Wow, those are some amazing looking coasters. It is amazing that none of them have cracked. Seems to confirm that cutting the tree in winter is a good idea, as William mentioned.

I think that they would work better as coasters if left natural. This would allow them to soak up the moisture from the glass, which is the primary purpose of using a coaster.

btw: welcome to the creek.

Steve

[Hilel Salomon]

You should cut the size branches you want approx 3 to 4 inches in dia, cut them in the winter when the sap in down and out of the tree. Leave them 2 to 3 ft long, seal the ends with anchor seal or wax, take them indoors and let dry at least one year, cut on the bandsaw and finish. The bark should stay on, if you don't want the bark on cut in the summer. As always be SAFE

I know that the warning William added took into consideration the dangers of cutting round objects on a bandsaw, but perhaps it's worth explaining. Unless you use some form of a sled, cutting a rolling object on a bandsaw can be very hazardous. I know that some experienced turners do this, but they are very, very experienced. Once was all it took to disabuse me of ever trying it again.