Hi
I am working on 2 pepper grinders out of birds eye maple. I was planning on using BLO beffore the water based top coat. Can I over sand maple enough to not take the oil?
Thanks.
Quinn
Hi
I am working on 2 pepper grinders out of birds eye maple. I was planning on using BLO beffore the water based top coat. Can I over sand maple enough to not take the oil?
Thanks.
Quinn
I sand a lot, using every step along the way, up to 400 or 600. Then if I start with WTF and then water based top coat, or de-waved shellac followed by wipe-on Poly. I flatten it with 320 or 400 or 600 as needed between coats.
Veni Vidi Vendi Vente! I came, I saw, I bought a large coffee!
I don't know the answer to your question, exactly, but I frequently use walnut oil on maple. I've found that for some reason it takes a very long time to dry (as compared to other woods) -- usually up to two weeks to be dry to the touch, whereas something like cherry is dry to the touch in days. BLO dries a great deal more quickly, but still seems a little slower.
With a water-based top coat, I would think you'd want that BLO very well cured before applying. It might not hurt to have a layer of shellac as an interface between as well, since oil and water ... well, it's oil and water.
My favorite finish for grinders is a simple natural oil (usually walnut) -- much more easily refreshed if needed (even by the customer). But of course it won't give you a super glossy finish if that's what you're after.
Just a thought. Have you ever tried Captain Eddie's "Shine Juice"? It's a mixture of 1/3rd BLO, 1/3rd denatured alcohol, and 1/3rd clear shellac. It is applied like a friction polish. He has a video describing the process.
I like it for small projects like vases and pepper mills.
Thanks for the input guys.
Quinn
Might be easier and faster to buy a can of Watco oil. Natural or tinted. I spray lacquer over it the next day--really pop's the color.