Question about your Table Saw

[Sam Chambers]

So far, I'm happy with my Delta Contractor's Saw. It was a factory refurb unit, and while it hasn't been used alot in the past year, it's performing well.

I upgraded from a ShopSmith 510 when I got the Delta. The ShopSmith does some things well, but it's a lousy table saw, and I really wouldn't recommend it. (That is unlkess you really enjoy constantly fussing around with a machine that won't stay in alignment.)

One of these days I'll get a cabinet saw, but that's not going to happen anytime soon. So I'm content with the contractor's saw, though I really dislike the blade guard/splitter and plan to upgrade that, some way, somehow.

[Dan McGuire]

I too started out with a Craftsman table top, although for the extra $10 or so I also got the stand. This is at a time when I thought I wanted to get into the hobby of woodworking. As I progressed and my knowledge of tools and what was availbable grew to match my desire, I found that I needed something bigger, more powerful. I shopped for months looking at all the brands (Delta, Jet, Griz, Powermatic ect...) I decided that a contractor saw would meet my needs well into the future, and let it be said that my future consisted of having nothing more than a garage/shop. With that in mind, I knew what ever I purchased would have to sturdy, powerful, yet mobile. That is why I set my sights on the contractor-type saws. I ended purchasing a JET contractor saw and put it on a mobile base. It has to date met all of my needs.

[Jason Roehl]

I have the Delta 36-600, which is kind of between a direct-drive and a contractor's--the universal motor is under the table, but only has a very short belt. If you're looking for an inexpensive saw to start with, this is not too bad, currently $300 new at the borg. Will it do everything a Uni does? No way. It's an underpowered screamer, but it has been accurate enough for my purposes.

[Byron Trantham]

I owned a Sears contractor saw for years. I spent enough money on it trying to improve it to the point I could have bought a cabinet saw in the first place. Of course I couldn't afford one at the time I bought the contractors saw. I bought a Delta Unisaw with the mobil base, Beisemeyer fence, etc. Some of the differences are subtle, while others are obvious. One of the subtle differences include blade changing using two wrenches rather than just one obviating the need for a jam stick to hold the blade in place. Better dust collection. More solid. One of the obvious differences include more power. the overall feel of a cabinet saw is so much better.

A note on the Sears saw and using a stacked dato set. As has been pointed out, the chippers can fall into the threads of the arbor causing groves in the dato. I bought some J&B Weld epoxy and [carefully] filled the gap. I turned the saw on, (blade removed, of course) and used some Emery cloth to sand the weld down to the diameter of the arbor. Result? Flat bottomed datos. It held up very well. I used it like that for about two years before I finally sold the saw.

[Dave Hammelef]

ok people either dont like to vote, dont own a tablesaw, or are unsure if they would vote.

But still interesting of those voiceing an opinion by far would recomend there saw, and most of those are Cabinet saw(2/3) owners with about 1/3 contractor saw owners.

Wow I really thought we had more people with contractor saws then cabinet saws.

[Don Farr]

I have a Ridgid TS2424 and I think it is a good saw for the money, BUT if I had it to do over again, I would have saved a little longer and bought a good cabinet saw. Like Byron said it is easy to spend a fortune on upgrades. I am now looking to buy a new fence system that's almost a grand. That with the cost of the saw and other upgrades (miter gauge, etc.) I could have bought a nice cabinet saw.
So much for hindsite.

[Peter Kuhlman]

As to the views vs poll-- I for one have read this post a couple times with only one vote so I do not think that is a very accurate way to analyze the data. I have a Craftsman contractor saw and voted no (of course ). What would be interesting is with the contractors saws - how many are happy with their quality saws - the top line Delta and PM64a types? There are some very poor contractor saws that are a nightmare to use due to having to readjust the blade-fence alignment frequently after making bevel cuts. This is the singular reason that I am purchasing a cabinet saw.
Pete

[Eric Apple - Central IN]

I can recommend the Jet contractor saw with the xacta (beis) fence. Seems to go a pretty good job, and power seems fine, and it stays tuned. I've ripped oak table legs that took the full height of the blade and had to slow down feed some what with an atb/r blade. So it may burn cherry if you had to cut it that thick (or switch to a rip blade). The new "supersaw" is very close in price. So that might be a better choice if buying new. I don't know because I have not owned one yet.

The one annoying thing is when cutting bevels > 30 deg, the outfeed table must be moved because the motor comes up so high.

[Steven Wilson]

I would recommend a Powermatic 66 for an American style cabinet saw. However, I find myself using a panel sled more and more and think it's time to upgrade to a Minimax or Felder combo.

[Bud Duffy]

I have a Crafstman 10in. directdrive with the ribbed aluminum top which is a pain but i dont do production work so that dosnt matter. When we bought our house 12 years agao it was a fixer upper i told loml we nedded a table saw and she went right out and came back with this one as it fit the budget at the time, it has done everything i have ever asked of it with no problems. I put a good quality 60 tooth blade on it and a good fence. I would reccomend this saw for those that are budget challenged as i was at the time now i am looking for a better setup. I am thinking my son will get this saw as a birthday gift in the near future.

[Paul Dwight]

My tablesaw saga started with a Craftsman contractors saw. I wish I could say I put some thought into that choice, but at the time I honestly didn't know anywhere to buy a "big" tool other than Sears. I used the saw very happily for several years until I figured out that some people had saws on which they didn't have to measure from blade-to-fence (front and back of the blade!) before every cut. I replaced the stock fence with a Vega fence and used the saw very happily for several years.

I replaced the Craftsman with a Jet contractor's saw when my projects started requiring more than straight-line 90-degree rips. Miter cuts on that Craftsman were down-right scarey. I transferred the Vega fence to the new Jet and used the saw very happily for several years.

I upgraded to a Griz 1023S about 18 months ago. The Jet was occassionally a little under powered, but really it did everything I needed it to do. The move to a 1023S was more of a "want" than a "need." Anyway, I'm thrilled with the 1023S and would make the change again in a minute. -- Paul

[Scott Coffelt]

I too started with a contractors saw. It was all I could afford at the time. It was a Mao Shan, built with heavy cast iron top and wings. The fence was sad, and I eventually upgraded to a Mule fence, machined pulleys and link belt. Eventually it started to wear out a little and I decided it was time to spend some more money on a saw.

I went with the Grizzly 1023S and I have never regretted it. Cuts beautifully and accurate. Given a choice I would buy it again.

[Jack Diemer]

Had the Jet contractors saw with an exacta fence, upgraded to the 1023S. Never had a regret, or a desire to get something else.

[Doug Edwards]

I have a 1 1/2 year old Craftsman contractor saw. I know that there is a lot of Sears bashing aroud the forums, but this saw was without a doubt the best quality saw I've seen for less than $500. My next door neighbor has a DeWally hybrid. It's nicer, but he paid $1450 with options. Mine has a 2424 fence that stays dead on. Cast extension tables, built in router table and a mobile base all were included. Someday I will get a cabinet saw, but for now I've got no complaints.