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Thread: Woodworker II question

  1. #1
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    Woodworker II question

    My Rockler friends (?) recommended a thin kerf blade over the standard kerf because it requires less power. I'm going to use it on a 3 hp cabinet saw. I don't think power is a consideration in this case. It seems they had only the thin kerf in stock. I thought the extra thickness might give more stability. Should I return the thin kerf or use it and not worry about it?
    ________
    Ron

    "Individual commitment to a group effort--that is what makes a team work, a company work, a society work, a civilization work."
    Vince Lombardi

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
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    Rogersville, Al
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    Ron

    I have a standard kerf on my WW2 on a 3hp cabinet saw and i couldnt be happier. It's never let me down and never growned for lack of power.
    True.... the thicker kerf will be a bit more stable.
    cya
    brad
    The Country Toad Workshop Rogersville, Al

  3. #3
    I would definetly return it. You don't have a power issue. Lars

  4. #4
    I have exactly the same saw setup and I use thin kerf rup blade from CMT and full kerf cabinet blade, also CMT. I have three woodworkerII blades and they are fine, maybe overrated.
    I prefer the thin kerf rip because there is less friction and drag when resawing thick chunks. I handle stabilization concerns by using one blade stabilizer by Forrest,
    John Lucas
    woodshopdemos

  5. #5
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    Hey Ron. I always ran full-kerf blades on my Delta 34-670 (step below contractor and maybe a step above benchtop)...and I assure you it wasn't very powerful!

    KC

  6. #6
    Mike Schwing Guest
    I use the WWII thin kerf on a 3hp cabinet saw. No problems whatsoever and I waste less wood to boot. The reason I have the thin kerf though has nothing to do with that - it was moved over from my previous benchtop saw which benefitted from the smaller kerf. Had I started from scratch I'd have the standard kerf - easier to calculate 1/8" into my cutting equations than 3/32", for one thing.

  7. #7
    Join Date
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    Huntsville, AL (The Sun and Fun Capital of The South)
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    Full kerf

    I have been using WW II full kerf blades on my TS for over 10 years. Wouldn't use anything else. You do not have a power problem and I would suggest the full kerf version.

    Like I have said so many times before that is probably is getting boring --- but I will say it again:

    <p align="center">
    <IMG src="http://www.kenswoodcentral.com/forrest1.gif">
    "If you believe in yourself and have dedication and pride - and never quit, you'll be a winner. The price of victory is high - but so are the rewards" - - Coach Paul "Bear" Bryant
    Ken Salisbury Passed away on May 1st, 2008 and will forever be in our hearts.

  8. #8
    I like full kerf blades better than thin kerf blades, and I have a mix of different blades See my website
    From a setup perspective, it is a lot easier going from one blade to another if they all all the same kerf thickness. That way your zero clearance plates are the same, and you don't have readjust your fence for the different blades. I too use the Forrest stabilizer on all my blades and it does help. If I were to do over again, I would select all full kerf (I have a 3hp cabinet) in a rip, crosscut, and fine. And probably from the same manufacturer. my .02

    Dave
    Last edited by David LaRue; 06-13-2003 at 12:05 PM.

  9. #9
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    Feb 2003
    Location
    Allen, TX
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    I had the same 'decision' to make in the last year, and went w/ the full kerf. It's more stable - I use a thin kerf (not WWII) on my smaller saw and the stability difference is definitely noticable.

    But more important to me is you can't use the Biesemeyer removable splitter w/ the thin kerf. That feature is better than the blade IMHO. I love that splitter - easy to install/remove, works like a champ, so it actually GETS used, while my 'factory guard/splitter' on my benchtop saw never gets used b/c it's such a pain to add/remove. I've heard a couple people have tried - works for some, doesn't for others.

    If you plan on upgrading to a removable splitter at any time, and want to the Biesemeyer as an option (vs. the Merlin - I think that will work w/ a thin kerf) then you really need the full kerf.

    Perry

  10. #10
    Join Date
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    There is no reason to use a thin-kerf blade on your saw whatsoever, unless you have a special need for the thinner kerf, itself. In fact, there is no need to use them on a contractors' style saw in most cases, especially with a high quality blade like the Forrest.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  11. #11

    Thumbs down "My Rockler friends (?)"

    Ron, you got it right "My Rockler friends (?)"
    I have 1hp Craftsmen underpowered TS. Yes I need a thin kerf for most of the hardwood I cut. I use a damper/stiffener on the blade but still get "a little wondering (drift) of the cut sometimes. If I had a 3HP saw there would be NO reason to go to a thin kerf blade! YES the extra thickness WILL give the blade more stability. Return the blade and request to speak to the manager about this issue! -Jerry
    Jerry

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