Knob or finial? Geometric poplar box...design considerations

[Roger Chandler]

Well, I have not posted any work in a good while, and this one is certainly different.......explanation follows....

I saw 3 pieces of poplar at the silent auction table at one of CVW's club meetings back last month....they were wet, and not exactly cubes, but the length was a bit longer than the width on each side. They began cracking almost immediately before I even got them home from the meeting which was about 45 minute drive.........I suspect the guy who brought them, had just cut the poplar into these squares that afternoon before the meeting began.

I decided I did not want to lose them, and also to do something different.......just letting my creativity take over as I went. So something one does not see every day, and as of now, there is no finish, and I do plan at least to ebonize the lid, and not sure yet about whether to add a finial, make another top that matches the curve of the form going down to the foot, and about 1/3rd the height of the form itself, then put a small decoration on top of that/perhaps a smallish finial incorporated into the lid itself. Just a few ideas.

Thought I would ask the turners here about the lid and finish route you think might be best for this peculiar form? The box is 8.5" tall to the tip of the knob, and 5.5" wide on the square. The inside is hollowed out to leave just 1/4" of rim on the sides, but of course the square corners are thicker.

IMG_0791.jpg

[Reed Gray]

That one could go either way. One suggestion on that form, and it came to me from another turner on a similar form I did, and that is that it would look better if the top of the form, from point to point was slightly concave rather than straight across. Really makes a difference.

robo hippy

[Roger Chandler]

That one could go either way. One suggestion on that form, and it came to me from another turner on a similar form I did, and that is that it would look better if the top of the form, from point to point was slightly concave rather than straight across. Really makes a difference.

robo hippy

Interesting on the concave idea, Reed........even perhaps reverse that and turn down the corners a tad, but that would mess up the point on the corners.........humm, not too late on the concave top of the form though.......thanks, I will think that one over a bit. Got any pics of the one you did?

[Mark Greenbaum]

I'd replicate the square a bit undersized from the top of the main object. Then carry the square theme to the knob at the top.

[John K Jordan]

I think the lid could be a little taller. I might consider a knob if this is a container that is meant to be used a lot, perhaps a finial if it is meant to be looked at. If you still have a piece of the wood, a two part lid where part is ebonized and part is the same wood/finish as the form might be interesting.

For finish on yellow poplar I like sanding sealer under some top coat, perhaps satin lacquer. If there is a lot of figure, I might use an oil. The possibilities are endless, of course!

BTW, for inspiration, at the TAW symposium turner Rudy Lopez demonstrated making a square-to-round form. He does some interesting things with the shape, both at the inside rim and sides:

http://www.rudolphlopez.com/images/g...2RoundVase.jpg

eucalyptusSquare2RoundVase.jpg

JKJ

[Paul Williams]

I like the concave top idea. Then if you are using the round lid set it down into the form so that it doesn't detract from the corner tips created by the concave top. Another option would be a square top. I think that would be best done out of the same piece of wood so that the grain matches across the joint. Probably no longer an option at this time.

[Brice Rogers]

The following comment is on Roger's post and is tangentially related.

I carry a bunch of big plastic garbage bags in the back of my pickup truck just in case I run across some fresh cut logs. The plastic works perfectly for holding in the moisture until I can get it home and have time to process it.

[David Delo]

Roger,

If I understand correctly, you have already hollowed out the inside to 1/4" on the flats. With the difference in wall thickness in the corners versus the flats, how you going to keep this from cracking? Did you boil or DNA this piece?

[Roger Chandler]

Roger,

If I understand correctly, you have already hollowed out the inside to 1/4" on the flats. With the difference in wall thickness in the corners versus the flats, how you going to keep this from cracking? Did you boil or DNA this piece?

David, you are correct about the problematic issue of taking the corners down on this.....after considering Reeds suggestion above, I think it would take part of the sides away in a way that will have high probability of a serious catch, so I will leave this one as it is regarding the top of the form. I will likely make a new lid for it and ebonize it. Depending on how it looks, I will make a new knob or perhaps incorporate a short finial in the lid.....this one is still a work in progress.

[Reed Gray]

The piece I used the concave sweep to was one of the 3 off set center turnings with the spiral up the sides. Since the corners are thicker than the sides, a tight fitting lid won't work for much more than a week or so because of wood movement. Getting the proper curve to the lid is the hard part for me to figure out. Bowls are much simpler.... Love that piece John.

robo hippy