Witherby 2" chisel

[rick carpenter]

Just showing off the Witherby 2" chisel I got yesterday.

20160430_192013-1.jpg

From the 1890 Winstead catalog (http://toolemera.com/catpdf/winsted1890CAT.pdf), it could be a Socket Firmer, a Socket Framing, or a Solid Silver Steel Socket Framing Chisel... with maybe a replacement handle. If the handle is original, it looks most like the Socket Firmer.

The logo is <T H WITHERBY> with the ITHERBY in small caps, apparently an early logo. The 2" width of the square-sided blade has 4-1/4" left on it with max thickness of a little over 1/4", the v-neck is 1", and the socket is 3". The handle has 6-1/2" sticking out of the socket but does not have the 'shoulder' at the socket that I've seen with pics of Witherbys. It had a little ~1/16" neck on the end (see the Corner Chisel's handle in the catalog) but since it was so worn down I reshaped the tip to rounded, and it has a section ~1-1/4" back from the tip that looked like it had a ferule. When I find the proper brass or bronze round stock, I'll add the bigger ferule.

It's shaving sharp now and will be used for slick-type work in construction.

[lowell holmes]

Rick, that is a fine chisel. I'm impressed with it.

You mentioned slick-type work in construction. Are you building log houses?

[rick carpenter]

I can't wait to need to use it! But no not for real slick work, I actually meant finishing out joints notched with a circ saw, recessing for hinges, that kind of stuff. Just kinda slick-type work in the sense of shaving them smooth. "Paring" might have been closer to what I should have said.

CORRECTION: "If the handle is original, it looks most like the Socket Framing Chisel."

[lowell holmes]

I have a 2" framing chisel as well. I had to re-handle it. It is extremely sharp. It's good for paring notches in beams.
I built a frame in the garden to hold lattice work. Believe it or not, I chopped mortises with the chisel for the joinery.

[Pat Barry]

Nice chisel and thanks for the research. I now know have a 7/8" Witherby socket firmer chisel, maybe from late 18th century thanks to your homework. The catalog describes it as a 6 inch blade but mine only has a tad under 5 inches left. Mine says T.H. WITHERBY and under that it say WARRANTED and all the text is inside an engraved rectangle.

[george wilson]

With that long handle,it could be a slick. Might be a bit small for a slick. I used to buy them at flea markets many years ago,though I ended up trading hem to the House Wrights as I had no need for a slick. Mine were usually about 3" wide,but had that long handle,which was used to smooth out work in ship building. Also,the top sides of slicks I have seen had a convex curve to them,or perhaps an angular top meeting in the center like a very low pup tent. I'm not certain this is a necessity to be called a slick though.

The long handle was so you could push the slick with the handle held against your chest or abdomen.

It's been so long by now that I can't be sure by now.

[Mel Fulks]

Some sources say that a slick must be at least 3 inches wide to qualify as a "slick". But I dismiss that as slick marketing.

[george wilson]

I have seen a Japanese slick that was 2" wide. I did a bit of Googling.

[Jim Ritter]

Of the several slicks that I have for boat work all have the socket tilted up so that even paring a wide surface the handle is always clear of the work.
just the other day I started to clean up a 2" chisel that I thought was a no name but at the end of the day I was stoning off some burrs on the side and then the top, at that point I saw just enough letters to confirm that it too is a Witherby. I'll take some pics later today.
Jim

[george wilson]

That's correct,Jim. I never used my slicks(why I bought them I have no idea!) they did tilt up. So,that may be a key way to identify a slick from a large framing chisel. That and the arched top surface. Assuming the original handle was gone.

[Brian Holcombe]

IIRC the typical combo of Japanese framing slicks is 24mm and 48mm, so approx 1" and 2"~.

[Jim Ritter]

Here's my 2" Witherby. Seems a bit different my socket is a bit shorter, the blade is shorter too but that could be sharpening. I'll have to check out the different types.



Jim