Table Saw to Cut Brass Rifle Cases? 223 to Blackout

[David Linnabary]

It just seems that a table saw or band saw for that matter would leave a finish so rough that you'd make more work for yourself cleaning up the end of the trimmed casing.



David

[Keith Pleas]

I haven't done brass, but I've cut off a lot of metal with a Milwaukee portaband configured with a Swagg Offroad portaband table and a metal cutting blade.

Here's a crummy video I shot doing this with a steel strap hinge. It seems slow but it gives a pretty clean edge and, of course, it would go through the brass like butter in comparison.

I'm using one hand for the work and the other for my iPhone - I've configured the portband with a clamp on the trigger and the power running through a common floor treadle switch.

[michael langman]

I would look at a rotary case trimmer with the idea of using a small parting tool to trim the cases one at a time. Slower, but much neater and more accurate job.
Shouldn't take more then 30 seconds to do one casing.

[Art Mann]

If someone tries to use an abrasive cutoff wheel, he will quickly find just how soft and gummy brass can get. A table saw or band saw blade designed for cutting non-ferrous metals is what is called for.

[Keith Pleas]

If someone tries to use an abrasive cutoff wheel, he will quickly find just how soft and gummy brass can get. A table saw or band saw blade designed for cutting non-ferrous metals is what is called for.

Well...you also want much lower blade speed than is common in woodworking machinery. And then there's the swarf which is also not good for things like bandsaw tires. This brass wouldn't require lubrication, but that's something to keep in mind cutting metal. For me a portaband (under $100 used on Craigslist) was the best option, and the table I mentioned is clamped in my vice to become a mini-metal bandsaw for under $200. Cleanup is a quick vacuum since the portaband doesn't have hidden areas.

[Brett Luna]

It just seems that a table saw or band saw for that matter would leave a finish so rough that you'd make more work for yourself cleaning up the end of the trimmed casing.

Here's the thing: you have to trim it anyway. We're talking about cutting a 5.56mm casing down from a nominal 45mm to 35mm OAL. No saw blade or cutting wheel is going to give you a clean final cut to the SAAMI spec of 34.75mm ±0.51mm that's ready for loading. And most case trimmers just aren't made to take off 10mm of length...not efficiently, anyway. I have an electric trimmer (Dillon RT1200) that mounts in my press. It's quick and darned spiffy but even it's not rated for that much removal.

Think of it this way, you get it close on the saw and the case trimmer is analogous to a shooting board and plane.

[Patrick Irish]

It just seems that a table saw or band saw for that matter would leave a finish so rough that you'd make more work for yourself cleaning up the end of the trimmed casing.


David

It's certainly a process and an initial rough cut it totally fine. After being cut off at the shoulder then it needs to be sized and then trimmed to within correct specs. The finally trimming I do on a drill press with a caliber specific carbide trimmer. It's tedious but gets the job done. I'm trying to not have to touch each piece of brass multiple times. Best option are the powered trimmers mentioned above but it's a $400+ setup. I can buy formed brass for $80 per thousand. 4000 formed and read to load pieces of brass would last a looooonnng time for me, like years if not decades.

I do like tools and that press mounted trimmer would also work on the other rifle calibers I reload for.

Being an adult with expensive hobbies sucks. I want to upgrade from a bosch 4100 to sawstop too

[Wes Ramsey]

It's certainly a process and an initial rough cut it totally fine. After being cut off at the shoulder then it needs to be sized and then trimmed to within correct specs. The finally trimming I do on a drill press with a caliber specific carbide trimmer. It's tedious but gets the job done. I'm trying to not have to touch each piece of brass multiple times. Best option are the powered trimmers mentioned above but it's a $400+ setup. I can buy formed brass for $80 per thousand. 4000 formed and read to load pieces of brass would last a looooonnng time for me, like years if not decades.

I do like tools and that press mounted trimmer would also work on the other rifle calibers I reload for.

Being an adult with expensive hobbies sucks. I want to upgrade from a bosch 4100 to sawstop too

Don't mean to take this thread in a different direction, but have you considered a Wilson trimmer with drill attachment? It essentially is a micro lathe setup with a large shell holder that holds the entire body of the shell. The depth of cut is set by a screw that butts up against the head. Clamp the trimmer body in a bench vise, chuck up the carbide cutter/drill adapter, and just trim once. It will cleanly and squarely take off as much material as you have it set for. I used to be really big into reloading for my big guns, but alas, children help to rearrange priorities. Just sold all my reloading gear last year and reinvested it in a Grizzly planer to consolidate hobbies. I still hunt and shoot and so do my boys, but shop time is not as frequent as it once was.

And I wouldn't have it any other way

[Martin Wasner]

What about a carbide straight cutter in a drill press? Or even something like a forestner bit? Make a holder, set the depth of stroke on the drill press, drop the case in the holder, plunge the handle? More or less treating it like a mill? I'm not sure you could get the average drill press spun up fast enough though?

Might be a good experiment on a empty that has been cycled too many times



I feel like the tablesaw is a lot of screwing around, for a so so result.

[Mac Cambra]

Here's a product that does what you want to do.

http://www.amazon.com/Deluxe-300-Bla...MVC9MQTECFRJEH

There is an inexpensive saw that appears in the reference as well.

[Mike Clarke]

Lee case holder and lock stud in a vise on a drill press. Use a piloted counter bore bit or the Lee shell cutter and modify the length of the Lee length gauge. You just need to locate the case safely and keep it from spinning. You can add a lever to the case holder to turn it that 1/4 turn to get the case in and out.

You can also locate the case by using a shortened case gauge or die body if saw cutting. Locate off the shoulders.

Lee has some good options for inexpensive case trimmers. Their quick trim setup can be had for under $30 or $40.