Lacquer vs varnish vs spar varnish - looking for good "primer" on when to use what!

[Jim Mackell]

I've used polyurethane varnish and spar varnish for many years. Depending on the species, I use shellac as a filler. Depending on the project I might end up with 5 or 6 coats of varnish with wet sanding between coats. Recently it was suggested that I use lacquer instead. There are a number of threads here talking about catalysts ad so forth, but I'm looking for a good primer "The Idiot's Guide to the differences between varnish and lacquer and when to use each to best advantage.

Has anyone seen that book? Or maybe written it yourself?

Thanks for any input.

[Lloyd McKinlay]

Bob Flexner has written several good books on finishing over the past 20 years. Some may be in your local library, if not several retail outlets offer them.

[Prashun Patel]

Specifically, Understanding Wood Finishing by Flexner is a great primer.


I am tempted to joke that shellac is also a great primer but will refrain

[Doug Hepler]

Jim,

You are a man after my own heart. There is no better finish for fine furniture than rubbed shellac or varnish, except that I prefer alkyd over polyurethane. Lately I have been using acrylic (polycrylic) with good results. No VOC and it dries quickly to a hard finish.

I agree with Lloyd and Prashun that Flexner's Understanding Wood Finishing is the bible of traditional wood finishing. He has written the most factually based and lucid advice on furniture finishing. Also look for books and articles by Jeff Jewett.

I admit I know little about lacquer except for its bad smell. IMO its advantages seem to be that you can spray many coats in a short time. I have done a bit of spray work but I'd rather brush or pad any day. Spraying is just too much trouble for my small shop. I would love to have somebody straighten me out about this if I am under-appreciating lacquer.

Doug

[James Baker SD]

Another consideration is the use of the wood. Varnish tends to be a little more durable, but difficult to repair if damaged as it really does not bond well to previous coats after it has fully hardened. Lacquer damages easier, but repairs easier as well as it tends to melt the layer below a new coat, fill the damage and bond well. My info may be dated by newer finishes available, I am referring to non water based products that I brushed on, then hand rubbed out.

[Randy Goodhew]

Which brand of spar varnish have you used?

[Jim Mackell]

Which brand of spar varnish have you used?

Minwax Helmsman, Epifanes, Cabot, etc. No particular issues or problems with any of them

[Jim Mackell]

Thanks for the replies, I'll see if I can find Flexners book.

[Prashun Patel]

Jim-

One caveat: This book has been in print for decades. My copy is from 1994. It is fantastic and still relevant for the traditional finishes, but has little about modern, waterbased finishes which have come a long way. So, you may want to see if modern publications of the same book have been updated.

[Jim Mackell]

Jim-

One caveat: This book has been in print for decades. My copy is from 1994. It is fantastic and still relevant for the traditional finishes, but has little about modern, waterbased finishes which have come a long way. So, you may want to see if modern publications of the same book have been updated.

Just ordered the updated version from Amazon. Thanks to all.

[Howard Acheson]

Keep in mind that "spar varnish" is not a good furniture finish. It is formulated to b flexible so that wood in a high moisture environment can expand and contract without affecting the finish. To make it flexible more oil is added. The addition of oil makes the varnish less water resistant and more susceptible to dings and bangs. Standard, regular varnish is a better, more protective finish, for furniture.